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Post by colted on May 30, 2015 18:55:02 GMT -5
Tried the pinch technique....truck hesitates but doesn't die fully. One more thing I forgot to add on my ordeal....I was only observing the shuddering and voltage drops when all accessories are on including AC & headlights and AT is in DRIVE.....If I shift it back to N or P, voltage goes back to 13.9V and shuddering disappears. Could be iac although the alt should maintain voltage unless the rpms drop to like 250-400. IAC was just replaced.
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Post by colted on May 31, 2015 11:06:22 GMT -5
I've almost given up and would succumb to batt & alt replacement direction but just this morning, after arrival to my place of work....tried turning on all loads and put it to drive, still hesitating. Then put back to neutral and still felt an intermittent short shaking of the engine that I wasn't feeling before/may haven't noticed it....idles at 600-700 RPM.....turned off all loads, put to N and popped open the hood....then out of curiosity, I disconnected the MAF sensor connector (mass air flow) and voila!....engine idles fine at around 800-900 RPM, no shaking.....turned on AC, lights, hit the brakes and put to Drive, RPM still stable at 800 & voltage at 13.5-13.7.....may have found the culprit....but how do you check a bad MAF sensor?...I'll try cleaning it first with a MAF sensor cleaner and update y'all...
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Post by bdmontero on May 31, 2015 12:39:12 GMT -5
SOMETIMES cleaning the MAF works but most likely a new one is needed.
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by jkdv8 on May 31, 2015 14:39:33 GMT -5
I've almost given up and would succumb to batt & alt replacement direction but just this morning, after arrival to my place of work....tried turning on all loads and put it to drive, still hesitating. Then put back to neutral and still felt an intermittent short shaking of the engine that I wasn't feeling before/may haven't noticed it....idles at 600-700 RPM.....turned off all loads, put to N and popped open the hood....then out of curiosity, I disconnected the MAF sensor connector (mass air flow) and voila!....engine idles fine at around 800-900 RPM, no shaking.....turned on AC, lights, hit the brakes and put to Drive, RPM still stable at 800 & voltage at 13.5-13.7.....may have found the culprit....but how do you check a bad MAF sensor?...I'll try cleaning it first with a MAF sensor cleaner and update y'all... Ahh. Must have missed that bit. There are a couple posts regarding the MAF. Couple posts stated that they were having issues with other systems all together and disconnecting it solved the symptoms but not the problem.
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Post by colted on Jun 1, 2015 22:27:56 GMT -5
SOMETIMES cleaning the MAF works but most likely a new one is needed. Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards just bought a can of CRC MAF sensor cleaner from Advanced Auto, will try to clean it this thurs and update you all. Ahh. Must have missed that bit. There are a couple posts regarding the MAF. Couple posts stated that they were having issues with other systems all together and disconnecting it solved the symptoms but not the problem. arrgh....makes me wonder what else more could it be other than the MAF sensor?what would be my problem if I leave the MAG sensor disconnected?
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Post by dclambertt on Jun 2, 2015 12:03:31 GMT -5
Tried the pinch technique....truck hesitates but doesn't die fully. One more thing I forgot to add on my ordeal....I was only observing the shuddering and voltage drops when all accessories are on including AC & headlights and AT is in DRIVE.....If I shift it back to N or P, voltage goes back to 13.9V and shuddering disappears. Then I wonder if your EGR valve is in fact malfunctioning, because mine stalled immediately when I pinched off the hose. You could look into checking resistances in the valve, although I don't know what those specs are. Bugzzyy could probably tell you.
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Post by jkdv8 on Jun 2, 2015 14:42:29 GMT -5
If you haven't swapped that Napa solenoid for an oem one I strongly suggest you do that first. I went through practically everything you are when mine was acting up. I almost went as far as replacing the valve, the regulator and bunch of other stuff. After testing the solenoid and saw it was way out of range in went the oem and out went the problems. In the midst of all that I did however replace just about all the vacuum lines except the one with the checkball. Need to remove it however to test. Think the case acts as the ground. Read different on and off the vehicle.
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Post by colted on Jun 3, 2015 22:23:27 GMT -5
Seems like the odds are with me this time.....had the chance to clean the MAF sensor using CRC MAF sensor cleaner.....sprayed back & forth and vacuumed some of the dust on the air filter as well.....drove the truck tonight with all loads on (AC, headlights, radio etc)...when on a stop, whilst foot is on the brakes....didn't feel any hesitation or that sort of stalling/dying.....hope this is not just placebo effect but amzed how such a sensor can affect a 3.5L engine to misbehave like before.....seen voltage to drop to lowest of 12.5VDC only and RPM was stable at 800RPM.
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Post by dclambertt on Jun 4, 2015 10:27:32 GMT -5
Yep, I had a MAF go out on my Audi TT and it was just awful to drive. Barely made it home.
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Post by jkdv8 on Jun 5, 2015 14:01:25 GMT -5
Hopefully that was it. A few times with mine I thought I had it fixed, then the problem resurfaced days, weeks, or months later. That went on for six months. Needless to say it was rather frustrating.
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Post by dutchc on Sept 15, 2017 21:12:48 GMT -5
Hello, I too would like to replace the EGR solenoid. However, removal of the bracket is confusing me and I am unable to view the photos in this link. How would I be able to see these photos in order to assist by removal of the bracket and the solenoid?
Thanks, Steve
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Post by jkdv8 on Sept 18, 2017 15:22:04 GMT -5
The two bolts on the bottom of the bracket are kinda recessed. Reach back there with your hand and you can feel them. Socket and an extension works well, forget what size. Take a picture or mental note of the hose routing. EVAP solenoid is on the same bracket with thicker hose. EGR has thin hoses.
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Post by dutchc on Sept 25, 2017 11:01:55 GMT -5
jkdv8... thank you for that bit of info. I was able to reach back and remove those bolts and thus remove the bracket. It was your confirmation that gave me the confidence to do it. Both the solenoid and the valve have been replaced. Hopefully this will solve the " check engine light " problem . Had my local auto shop reset the computer. I will now drive it around a bit before taking it to the smog shop. Thanks again for your help
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Post by colted on Sept 27, 2017 17:36:12 GMT -5
jkdv8... thank you for that bit of info. I was able to reach back and remove those bolts and thus remove the bracket. It was your confirmation that gave me the confidence to do it. Both the solenoid and the valve have been replaced. Hopefully this will solve the " check engine light " problem . Had my local auto shop reset the computer. I will now drive it around a bit before taking it to the smog shop. Thanks again for your help whereb you get the replacement from?.... keep your old solenoid & valve, might still be good and nice to have as spare
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Post by dutchc on Oct 3, 2017 20:26:02 GMT -5
Well, it looks like the "check Engine" light is off. I bought the diaphragm and solenoid from Amazon. The solenoid was an OEM part while the diaphragm was not. The total cost for both parts was around $110. Regardless, I hopefully saved some dollars doing it myself. The shop I originally took it to reset the light for me and suggested I drive it a few days before taking it to be smogged.
What would be the purpose of keeping the old parts considering neither of them were functional?
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