Post by CoreyJ on Oct 1, 2011 17:01:44 GMT -5
After weeks of scraping and squealing from my rear left brakes I finally had time to replace both the rotor and the caliper. Here is a writeup on how I did it. I hope it helps
1. Here is the source of my braking embarrassment over the past few weeks. The caliper was totally seized up and the inside brake pad was gone. The result was a ruined rotor. Time to get busy with a total replacement.
2. Assemble your parts – new rotor and caliper and brake hardware kit.
3. Jack the Montero up and don’t forget to use jack stands for safety. Remove the wheel and survey the damage. Start out by removing the brake hose from the caliper body. Have a rubber stopper or other plug handy since some brake fluid will come out of the hose. This will prevent damage to the hose as you remove the caliper later on.
4. Before doing anything else with the caliper, take careful note of the two wire clips that help to position the pads and hold in the two pins. The red arrow points to the lower w-shaped clip and the blue arrow to the straight clip along the left pad. This clip fits into holes in the silver pins.
5. The caliper is taken off by removing two bolts/pins that secure the caliper to the bracket. The caliper ‘floats’ on these pins and allows the pads to contact the rotor and then retract. There are two bigger bolts that fasten the two halves of the caliper together. After the pins have been removed, pull the caliper/pad assemble straight off of the rotor and set aside.
6. Now that the caliper is removed, you have a nice bare rotor to work with.
7. The rotor can be removed by pulling it straight off of the hub. In most cases, the rotor will be stuck on by rust, brake dust, etc. A couple of taps with a rubber mallet or a hammer (cushioned by a block of wood) should loosen it up. There is also another way to loosen the rotor – the red arrows point to two screw holes (M8 X 1.25). Thread bolts into these holes and as they contact the hub the rotor will usually pop free.
8. The two arrows show the positions of the parking brake shoes. If you have to work on anything related to the parking brake now is the time.
9, Get the new caliper ready to go. Three things to note here - The blue circles mark the brake pin fittings, the red arrow marks the bleeder screw and the green arrow shows the locations of the brake hose port. The port will be protected with a plastic plug that needs to be removed just before you reconnect the brake hose to the caliper.
10. New caliper with new brake pad pins. Although they will be rusted and stuck in an old caliper, they slide in freely when new. Now, replace the brake pads and be sure not to forget the pad shims (red arrow) from the old caliper. The shims fit between the pad base and the caliper.
11. Here the brake pads, shims and pins have been reassembled. The order from left to right is shim-pad-pad-shim. The rotor will fit between the brake pad faces.
12. Now replace the long metal retaining clip. Turn the silver pins until the holes line up and you can place the ‘hooks’ through the holes, locking the pins in place.
13. Next, place the w-shaped clip as shown in the photo. The clip curves under the bottom pin and the two wire ends fit into the holes in the brake pads as shown with the red circles.
14. Place the new rotor onto the hub. It slides right on
15. Carefully slide the new caliper onto the rotor. Be careful to observe that the pads are positioned correctly on either side of the rotor surface. Line up the brake pin fittings and tighten the pin bolts. Now attach the brake hose to the caliper and you’re about finished.
16. Since the hydraulic system was opened, be sure to correctly bleed the brakes. I used a one-man bleeder system to do the job. ALWAYS CAREFULLY TEST THE BRAKE SYSTEM BEFORE NORMAL USE.
Congratulations!
1. Here is the source of my braking embarrassment over the past few weeks. The caliper was totally seized up and the inside brake pad was gone. The result was a ruined rotor. Time to get busy with a total replacement.
2. Assemble your parts – new rotor and caliper and brake hardware kit.
3. Jack the Montero up and don’t forget to use jack stands for safety. Remove the wheel and survey the damage. Start out by removing the brake hose from the caliper body. Have a rubber stopper or other plug handy since some brake fluid will come out of the hose. This will prevent damage to the hose as you remove the caliper later on.
4. Before doing anything else with the caliper, take careful note of the two wire clips that help to position the pads and hold in the two pins. The red arrow points to the lower w-shaped clip and the blue arrow to the straight clip along the left pad. This clip fits into holes in the silver pins.
5. The caliper is taken off by removing two bolts/pins that secure the caliper to the bracket. The caliper ‘floats’ on these pins and allows the pads to contact the rotor and then retract. There are two bigger bolts that fasten the two halves of the caliper together. After the pins have been removed, pull the caliper/pad assemble straight off of the rotor and set aside.
6. Now that the caliper is removed, you have a nice bare rotor to work with.
7. The rotor can be removed by pulling it straight off of the hub. In most cases, the rotor will be stuck on by rust, brake dust, etc. A couple of taps with a rubber mallet or a hammer (cushioned by a block of wood) should loosen it up. There is also another way to loosen the rotor – the red arrows point to two screw holes (M8 X 1.25). Thread bolts into these holes and as they contact the hub the rotor will usually pop free.
8. The two arrows show the positions of the parking brake shoes. If you have to work on anything related to the parking brake now is the time.
9, Get the new caliper ready to go. Three things to note here - The blue circles mark the brake pin fittings, the red arrow marks the bleeder screw and the green arrow shows the locations of the brake hose port. The port will be protected with a plastic plug that needs to be removed just before you reconnect the brake hose to the caliper.
10. New caliper with new brake pad pins. Although they will be rusted and stuck in an old caliper, they slide in freely when new. Now, replace the brake pads and be sure not to forget the pad shims (red arrow) from the old caliper. The shims fit between the pad base and the caliper.
11. Here the brake pads, shims and pins have been reassembled. The order from left to right is shim-pad-pad-shim. The rotor will fit between the brake pad faces.
12. Now replace the long metal retaining clip. Turn the silver pins until the holes line up and you can place the ‘hooks’ through the holes, locking the pins in place.
13. Next, place the w-shaped clip as shown in the photo. The clip curves under the bottom pin and the two wire ends fit into the holes in the brake pads as shown with the red circles.
14. Place the new rotor onto the hub. It slides right on
15. Carefully slide the new caliper onto the rotor. Be careful to observe that the pads are positioned correctly on either side of the rotor surface. Line up the brake pin fittings and tighten the pin bolts. Now attach the brake hose to the caliper and you’re about finished.
16. Since the hydraulic system was opened, be sure to correctly bleed the brakes. I used a one-man bleeder system to do the job. ALWAYS CAREFULLY TEST THE BRAKE SYSTEM BEFORE NORMAL USE.
Congratulations!
