Its good to have you back on here again, I found your site years ago and though it was really cool, I was afraid that since it hadn't been updated in such a long time that you might have left the fold or gotten rid of your sport.
By the way, Edward, you ever take your rig to the mountains or higher elevations? Did the 3.0L fair pretty well? I'm always worried about not being able to keep it above 65 when I will take my trip out west. I do have a 5spd so I don't have the torque advantage the autos have.
Nope, not a chance!!! ;D When it's my time I plan to be buried surrounded by my Sports. Still working on how to take them with me!!! LOL!!! No, between getting married, getting divorced and running a growing and not so small anymore corporation, selling said company and then NOT selling said company (repeat several times), I just run out of time. And, since my business pays for all my toys, it gets precedence.
Which is why my new build so far only has a bumper.
Where I live it's about 5600. Anywhere you go west from my place is just up. ;D And, since I don't like trees, I usually do my 'wheeling above timber line (11,000+). ;D ;D
Wheeling isn't really a problem unless you really get up in altitude (over 11,000) and you're carrying some weight. Keeping the RPMs up for the torque starts to get a little dicey.
That 1.92 t-case really sucks if you need finesse. Actually, we had much more trouble with the automatic transmission than we had with the engine. If you're running big tires, the 5-speed 3.0L is a LOT less problematic.
The 3.0L didn't really have any serious problems except for I-70 and only between Denver and Eagle. It's the steep, extended stretches at 65-75 MPH that suck. The 3.0L just isn't the torque monster the 3.5 is and dropping into 4th at that speed means you're turning 4000+ RPM. Not very good for the engine on a steep grade especially if its hot outside and the vehicle is carrying a load. Make SURE you run nothing but premium gas!! The 3.0L WILL knock up here even on 91 octane especially if it's hot out with a load on a steep grade.
The two lane HWYs here are max 65 Mph and twisty which keeps the speeds down and the grades aren't that steep. Unlike UT with their insane 12-14% grades on blacktop two lane highways.
Don't count on using 5th, much.
Now knowing what your axle gearing and tire size is it's hard to make any recommendations. 5th gear becomes pretty useless unless you're on the highway where you can get into the 3.0Ls torque band. You should be fine, though. Just a side note, even unloaded my new, stock '97 3.0 won't do the mountain passes in 5th.
Make sure all your maintenance is done, fresh - and proper mix of - antifreeze, only run preminum (91+), and change to 10-40 full synthetic (bring extra 'cause you can't just buy that stuff anywhere around here). When you stop to get gas, check your oil level. For some reason on long trips mine goes down even though it's not burning it and never leaked. My 3.5s don't, but my new '97 does.
Anyway, make sure you keep it topped off. Otherwise, don't be afraid to down shift and take it easy. My personal recommendation is to keep the RPMs below 4k. If that means doing 50 MPH up Vail - then do 50. Its difficult and very expensive to get a replacement engine in CO and UT. There ain't a hell of a lot between Vegas and Omaha besides Salt Lake and Denver and that's not saying much.
Bring spare parts!!! You don't need EVERYTHING, but Mitsubishi parts are dang near impossible to get outside a major city and even then a lot needs to be ordered. At the top of my list are spare O2 sensors, the ignition controller next to the coils and 1 spare coil (you don't need all three since they're interchangeable). Especially bring one front and one rear O2 sensor. They can just die especially if they're getting a little long in the tooth and you can't get them anywhere except a dealership. Napa, AutoZone, Carquest, etc. have to order them which usually takes a day or two or three. Yes, you can still drive with a dead O2 sensor, but they cause 'limp home mode' sometimes and go rich. Dumps a lot of gas through the CAT which is bad if you have a long ways to drive before you can fix it.
I also carry a spare MAP, TPS and fuel pump controller and relays (behind the kick panel on the passenger side below the ECU) and a spare fuel pump. The MAP isn't required to drive so it's optional but I don't want my trip cut short or otherwise screwed with so I carry one. I carry a spare ECU, but only because I'm paranoid because of where we go and that we're by ourselves. That ones up to you. A complete set of belts. Don't care if yours are new or not - I lost a three week old air conditioning belt year before last in August half way between Grand Junction and Moab - got lucky, Napa had ONE left that mostly fit.
Upper and lower spare radiator hoses - also something you can't buy except from the dealership - and a hose repair kit that matches the heater and rear head hoses or spare hose that's the right diameter.
Selection of spare bulbs and fuses. Truck stops don't carry anything around here anymore and neither do most gas stations.
Mostly my mantra is if I can't get it at Napa, AutoZone, whatever within a day or two at most and I can't drive home without it or if not being able to replace it right then and there makes the vehicle unsafe (or will get me a ticket), then I take a spare.
Edward
www.4x4extremesports.com
Which is why my new build so far only has a bumper. 
Don't count on using 5th, much.