switch to synthetic engine oil

[palmsprings]

Ive heard for years that if you switch to full synthetic oil after having used "regular" engine oil and have higer mileages engines,that leaks may begin or even increase.

Id like to hear from those who switched synthetic oil andthat both did and didnt experience a new oil leak when you never had one before.

Attachments:

[doarmihai]

a good synthetic has good additives , one of the additive is taking care of the seals... to keep them soft
if you have a leak it will be there .. no matter what type of oil you use(mineral or synthetic)
one difference will make the viscosity of the oil..tin oil will leak more
run amsoil 5w30 in mine... i do have a leak from the rear main seal, but it doesn't leave any drops under the car in my garage
big mistake people do when they change viscosity of the oil base on miles.
a high mile oil has extra additives not a different viscosity
stay with what mitsu require

[dzuwel]

doarmihai is right....if your engine leaks no matter what type of oil you use..it will leak the same. But for me oil viscosity is no big deal either, I've used 5, 10 and 0w30 with success. I switched to synthetic oil on my ms 105k on the clock, currently the ms has 135 k to date and currently running on mobil 0w30 ...no leaks ...no issues..

[doarmihai]

the important number in our monteros is the one at the end .. the 30, wich is the viscosity at normal operating temp

[monty98]

The first number is important for all vehicles more or less. It's how the oil acts when cold, so everyone should want a "0" because cold 0 weight oil still isn't as fluid as operating temp 30 or whatever weight oil you use (the second number).

So the lower the first number the better for your engine. Never would run a 10-30 or 10 anything for that matter because cold 10 weight oil is just way to thick for any 5-30 weight engine no matter the temp.

Just my .02 learned from basic oil facts anywhere.

FYI I run Mobil full synthetic 5-30. Just seems to work the best for whatever reason. Tried 0-30, 10-40, and castrol syntec 5-30. Working great for me. Just don't switch back and forth a ton of times, make the switch and stick with it or go back. But don't go back and forth.

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using proboards

[palmsprings]

Im not trying to hijack my own thread,so i hope it remains on topic.
i just want to throw this tidbit in since it had been mentioned in one of the replies.

BTW:
At 155K i developed lifter noise on startup,so i switched to high mileage 5-30 and the noise is reduced if not gone completely.its now 180K

[doarmihai]

before anything you have to see if the noise has to do with the drop in ambient temp.
than if it doesn't have to do with the ambient temp.... you may have some lifter problem
but for example if in the summer days you don't notice the cold start noise , than the problem is the injectors, and can be addressed by cleaning the fuel system and changing the fuel filter
my suggestion is to use amsoil 5w30 signature
and before switching do an engine flush, maybe 2. and go with the amsoil oil filter

[monty98]

Dec 27, 2012 13:17:12 GMT -5 palmsprings said:

Im not trying to hijack my own thread,so i hope it remains on topic.
i just want to throw this tidbit in since it had been mentioned in one of the replies.

BTW:
At 155K i developed lifter noise on startup,so i switched to high mileage 5-30 and the noise is reduced if not gone completely.its now 180K

The detergents in the high mileage most definitely helped clear up the sludge in the VLA's then, as noted that can be a problem especially as the engine ages.