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Post by 2002sport on Jan 1, 2013 14:14:59 GMT -5
I will start with a hello. I am new here but a long time sport owner who is finally going to use the montero for what I bought it for.
My question is when I am lifting the sport(2002). all I am doing in the front is adjusting the torsion bar right? and upgrading the struts. And the rear is springs and shocks.
So when I am buying a lift kit I can just buy the OME springs and put in Tokico Trekmasters and crank the T-bar to match then get the alignment correct? Sorry, I am just trying to figure out what they are selling for a front lift.
Thanks
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Post by monty98 on Jan 1, 2013 17:57:55 GMT -5
Correct for the torsion bar crank and larger coils (for your year) in the back and tokico trekmasters shocks all the way around, but if you're getting longer coils in the back you'll need either the old man emu longer shocks or a rancho 0-1" lift shock. If you use the trekmasters or any stock length ones they'll be busted in a few hundred miles from being over extended. I went through 4 Monroe shocks before realizing they were getting over extended, bursting the top seal, leaking and eventually losing most of the fluid and essentially becoming air shocks. The front just crank the torsion bars, but don't over do it, otherwise you reduce the life of your cv shafts because they'll be at extreme angles all the time not to mention the ride quality will suck. I infact just reduced mine a little bit, rides better now and the slight back to front rake looks good and it levels out when loaded. Stock lengtb shocks for the front end are a that's available and needed because the bump stops and ball joints will always limit the travel to stock specs. Hope this begins to help.  |
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jan 3, 2013 16:30:46 GMT -5
Correct for the torsion bar crank and larger coils (for your year) in the back and tokico trekmasters shocks all the way around, but if you're getting longer coils in the back you'll need either the old man emu longer shocks or a rancho 0-1" lift shock. .... I've never run Tokico. Like the OME shocks, though. Anyway, I just had my Rancho RS9000s replaced after 400K with new RS9000s. They've changed the design a little (and the paint color  ). They seem to work even better than before. They are expensive, though.  But, they're available in more length options than the OMEs. Edward |
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Post by monty98 on Jan 4, 2013 2:36:02 GMT -5
I've never run Tokico. Like the OME shocks, though... Edward I think I would like the OME shocks too, just wanted to try the Tokicos after recommendations on here and elsewhere and after hearing that the OME had problems with leaking and breaking frequently. Maybe in the future. I mainly want twin-tube shocks though (they always seem to be softer and don't heat up as fast I heard) I used to run the KYB monotube gas charged and those sucked, which is why I went cheap and picked the Monroes, but those failed every few months and while replacement was free, it gets to be a pain, especially in the front! |
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jan 4, 2013 18:22:41 GMT -5
.... I think I would like the OME shocks too, just wanted to try the Tokicos after recommendations on here and elsewhere and after hearing that the OME had problems with leaking and breaking frequently. Maybe in the future. I mainly want twin-tube shocks though (they always seem to be softer and don't heat up as fast I heard) I used to run the KYB monotube gas charged and those sucked, which is why I went cheap and picked the Monroes, but those failed every few months and while replacement was free, it gets to be a pain, especially in the front! I knew better than to try anything like the Monroes and KYBs (although I run KYBs on my 'Bird and love them). The factory shocks lasted about a month before I blew three of them. I've heard good things about the Tokicos - some of the Montero guys run them if I remember right. I LOVED the OMEs. Never had a problem and I put 50-60K on them. My only complaint with the gas pressurized shocks - like the OMEs - is the amount of pressure. The idea is great for the highway, but I just don't care for them off road. I was happy when I found out that Rancho changed the RS9000 to a gas charged shock they went to a low pressure design. The problem is I'm 'Old'. I have this strange idea about leaving the 'spring' in my springs and not trying to turn a shock into a spring.  When I was wheeling my Sport with the OMEs - before the SAS - I noticed there was enough pressure in the OMEs to restrict articulation even in a big, heavy vehicle like a Sport. Instead of letting the wheel compress into the well, it'd try to force the body up and away from the wheel. That is very 'Bad Ju Ju' on a top heavy vehicle. I haven't wheeled my big Sport with the new RS9000s, yet. I just got it back from the shop after managing to break the other frame rail in Moab last August. The shocks behave better on the highway, that's pretty obvious. It's a little bouncy on rough side streets, though, which concerns me. But, that may be a matter of adjustment. I used to run 4 front/ 3 rear, or 4 front 6-7 rear depending on the load and no one seems to know if the adjustments are different from the old shocks or the same. I'll have to play with that. I was planning on taking up for a test run this weekend if there isn't too much snow to get to the rough sections of Lamertine. Edward www.4x4extremesports.com |
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Post by 2002sport on Jan 12, 2013 20:54:37 GMT -5
Thank you. I think I will just stick with the OME lift with the torsion cranked up and see how it goes then maybe down the road switch the shocks up.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jan 14, 2013 15:59:19 GMT -5
Thank you. I think I will just stick with the OME lift with the torsion cranked up and see how it goes then maybe down the road switch the shocks up. Unless you're really wheeling your Sport I'd stick with the OMEs. I think you'll be happy. The OMEs are good, solid shocks. If you get to the point of pulling sway bars for the trail, you'll have no choice but to replace the shocks with RS9000s and then only because you'll need the selection of lengths they provide to tune your suspension. Good luck and let us know how it goes! Edward www.4x4extremesports.com |
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Post by 2002sport on Jan 21, 2013 20:12:34 GMT -5
So I went with the Tokicos in the front and the OME's in the rear. My front shocks were toast! I installed the fronts yesterday and it almost made the car level which tells me my rears are way over due also.
Another question about lifts. I have a 2" body lift but I just read that the front bumper has to be relocated. Is this true and if so has anyone done it?
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Post by monty98 on Jan 26, 2013 18:51:28 GMT -5
I can't elaborate on the 2001-2004 Montero sports but the 97-99 I believe the bumper moved with the body. I want to do a body lift on mine and I think apart from moving the brush guard up, the bumper should move with the body. Otherwise the most you'll have is a small gap. It bothers some people, others not so much.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jan 30, 2013 14:37:35 GMT -5
So I went with the Tokicos in the front and the OME's in the rear. My front shocks were toast! I installed the fronts yesterday and it almost made the car level which tells me my rears are way over due also. Another question about lifts. I have a 2" body lift but I just read that the front bumper has to be relocated. Is this true and if so has anyone done it? What passes for a 'bumper' - just a plastic and tin fascia - is attached to the radiator support. So, unless you want a big gap - yes. If you're doing a 2" body lift you'll need to look at removing/modifying the radiator shroud and/or relocating the radiator. Check all the wiring and hoses that go from the body to the chassis. All needs to be long enough to not bind when chassis and body flexes off road. Which it will quite a bit. Just because they LOOK ok on the street, doesn't mean they're long enough. Having a ramp handy and a couple extra bodies would be extremely helpful. While you're at it, re-weld the body mounts to chassis. The welds where the metal bracket mounts to the frame are very thin and very deep but not substantial enough for off-road and a body lift is going to increase stress there by a bit. I've already broken five and I don't have a body lift, so I know this one well. The front two are ok normally, but be prepared to pull the bolt through the bracket. Given the stress there, I expect you just do that sooner. Edward www.4x4extremesports.com |
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Post by 2002sport on Jan 30, 2013 19:49:58 GMT -5
Thanks. I will double check everything and make some brackets for the radiator and bumper.
I am not planning on doing serious off-roading, it's more for hunting and camping but I will look into possibly beefing up the mounts.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jan 31, 2013 17:55:55 GMT -5
Thanks. I will double check everything and make some brackets for the radiator and bumper. I am not planning on doing serious off-roading, it's more for hunting and camping but I will look into possibly beefing up the mounts. In that case, rather than beef up the mounts, I suggest getting a set of good rock skids and have them welded to the frame. Kill two birds with one stone. The skids stiffen up the frame quite a bit which will help enough I think that you won't have to worry about the mounts. Something like the All-Pro Toyota skids I run would work. I installed the DOM skids on my stock '97 last spring - amazing how much flex is in the Sport. You don't notice until its suddenly not there anymore. Edward |
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). They seem to work even better than before. They are expensive, though. 
But, they're available in more length options than the OMEs.