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Post by tirill on Nov 23, 2014 0:55:52 GMT -5
Soo, after many years of flickering 4WD lamp on the dashboard and more and more requent ABS lap coming on I have decided to change out the three electrical switches for the transfer system.
The one on the front axle is problably easy to change, I have seen it many times when changing the oil in the front differential
HOWEVER, the 2 nasty ones are the ones on top on the transfer case! On some other places in this forum, there is mentioned that either U must have very small hands to reach them, or U must lower the transfer case.
Can anyone tell me of how the lowering of the transfer case is carried out??
Must I loosen al bolts on the rear rupport in the chassi and drop it down? How much must it be lowerd?
Can it hang in the threads of the bolts for the bar, or must I support it with a jack??
What will it hang on if I lower it as much as possible? Can I destroy anything if I lower it too much??
Ok many questions but maybe somebedy that have done this knows the simple answers.....
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Post by ES_97Sport on Nov 24, 2014 13:58:35 GMT -5
Soo, after many years of flickering 4WD lamp on the dashboard and more and more requent ABS lap coming on I have decided to change out the three electrical switches for the transfer system. The one on the front axle is problably easy to change, I have seen it many times when changing the oil in the front differential HOWEVER, the 2 nasty ones are the ones on top on the transfer case! On some other places in this forum, there is mentioned that either U must have very small hands to reach them, or U must lower the transfer case.Can anyone tell me of how the lowering of the transfer case is carried out?? Must I loosen al bolts on the rear rupport in the chassi and drop it down? How much must it be lowerd? Can it hang in the threads of the bolts for the bar, or must I support it with a jack?? What will it hang on if I lower it as much as possible? Can I destroy anything if I lower it too much?? Ok many questions but maybe somebedy that have done this knows the simple answers..... Ok. The part about small hands is correct. I can't do it, but the tech that used to do my work and did replace my switches managed to do it without lowering anything. How he accomplished this, I have no idea. I couldn't even reach the switches let alone get a wrench on them.  What I've done is use a floor jack to support the transfer case and then remove the transfer case/transmissions cross member. Lower the floor jack a couple inches until there's just enough room. You don't need much room - just a little more than there is there normally. NO! You can NOT just let it hang. You MUST support the transfer case end of the engine/t-case assembly. That said, YES, you can do nasty things if you're not careful. You will need to go through and make sure you're not stretching wires, cables, or anything else. ALSO, you will have to keep an eye in the engine bay. As the transfer case drops it moves the top of the engine towards the firewall. On my big Sport, that means that the EVAP/EGR stuff will hit the Cruise Control - not a good thing.  Also, make sure you don't shove any crud fro the top of the t-case into the t-case when you're trying to reinstall the switches. This isn't rocket surgery - you just have to pay attention to detail. Edward |
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Post by jkdv8 on Nov 24, 2014 19:56:01 GMT -5
Often wondered if you could go through the top. Remove the console then the rubber boot. Should be right there. Came close to taking it off once to see but wasn't sure how it was fastened underneath.
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Post by tirill on Nov 25, 2014 0:03:56 GMT -5
Edward Tnx a lot for the information U provided. I hope it will be useful. I have ordered the switches now and when they arrive I will do an first try without lowering the transfer case. I have done a lot of invvestigations under the car, and taken pictures etc. And we will se the outcome. I took some pictures under the car the other day and I will se if I can post some of them here  A funny thing that I cant explain is that the closest switch does only have one core/lead instead of two that seem to be standard. I guess it is earthening the signal inside instead, but I havent got a good explanation on this. Investigation continues...... |
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Post by ES_97Sport on Nov 26, 2014 13:48:16 GMT -5
Edward Tnx a lot for the information U provided. ... A funny thing that I cant explain is that the closest switch does only have one core/lead instead of two that seem to be standard. I guess it is earthening the signal inside instead, but I havent got a good explanation on this. Investigation continues...... No worries. Some senders/switches have one lead and some have two. The single lead senders/switches ground through the housing so there's only a positive lead in. The ones that have two are + & -. Ground is through the - lead. A good example is the dash temp sender and the ECT (engine coolant temperature) sender. The dash switch has only one lead but the ECT has two. A note on installing the two different switches/senders and this is especially relevant to the coolant and oil senders/switches because they typically require some type of thread sealant. A switch is on/off like the senders for idiot lights (or the switch that turns the dash 4WD light on/off). When the input reaches a specific point the switch either turns on or off (the circuit either opens or closes). Senders like the ECT, dash temp gauge sender and oil pressure senders operate by changing the resistance through the circuit depending on (in this case) temperature and pressure on the input side. If you use something like Teflon tape on a single wire sender/switch, the housing either won't or will have intermittent/inconsistent ground and will not function correctly (or at all). If you use something like the paste thread seal on resistance type single wire sender it can (and most likely will) change the resistance reaching the gauge and that will produce an erroneous gauge reading. Resistance is additive. For example: Say a temperature gauge is supposed to read 100 degrees @100 Ohms and 200 degrees @200 Ohms (1 Ohm = 1 degree). If there's 50 additional Ohms of resistance between the sender housing and the water manifold the total resistance being read by the gauge is 150 Ohms. That means the gauge will read 150 degrees when the actual temperature is 100 degrees. So, for those senders/switches that require thread sealant, you have to make sure you use the correct one or you'll end up chasing weird problems forever. Edward |
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Post by tirill on Nov 26, 2014 15:45:35 GMT -5
Eduard
Tnx a lot for good and encouridging information. I must say I have spent many hours in front of manuals and circuit diagrams to try to get an hint about this "1 or 2 wire issue", but nothing I have found. All documents I have checked and all spare part pics indicate 2 wire sensors for these switches!
I am well aware of the "internal switch earthening" possibility, but it is good to know and not to guess, as it will be a big job for me to lower down the transfer case if I must do that.
Otherwise tnx for all your good advices about the issue. I will keep U osted about the further job on this project.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Nov 26, 2014 20:03:00 GMT -5
Often wondered if you could go through the top. Remove the console then the rubber boot. Should be right there. Came close to taking it off once to see but wasn't sure how it was fastened underneath. I THINK maybe you could. Maybe. On my M/T the hole through the floor is quite big, but the t-case is really shoved up there and the switches kinda sit back. I think the first one I did I went through the shifter hole but I still had to drop the t-case about 2" or so and that was only the closest switch. Even though there's a good sized hole, it's still awkward to get a hand through there with a wrench. Something to experiment with when the time comes. I just know there was no way for me to do it from underneath. Edward |
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Post by ES_97Sport on Nov 26, 2014 20:04:19 GMT -5
Eduard Tnx a lot for good and encouridging information. I must say I have spent many hours in front of manuals and circuit diagrams to try to get an hint about this "1 or 2 wire issue", but nothing I have found. All documents I have checked and all spare part pics indicate 2 wire sensors for these switches! I am well aware of the "internal switch earthening" possibility, but it is good to know and not to guess, as it will be a big job for me to lower down the transfer case if I must do that. Otherwise tnx for all your good advices about the issue. I will keep U osted about the further job on this project. What year and model is your Sport? Are you looking at the FSMs? Edward |
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Post by tirill on Nov 30, 2014 15:37:01 GMT -5
Edward FSM=?? What do U mean? My model is an 2000 V6 3,0 Litres gasoline engine with AT. I have had it since new, so soon 16 years. I have kept an accurate record of it during the years, and done all service and repairs myself (almost). For 10 years I had not one single problem or failure with the car, but the last 2 years I have faced a number. I live in Sweden and the road authorities put quite huge amount with salt on the roads in wintertime to keeep the ice and snow away, and that makes all cars corroding heavily. Also my Pajero. I plan to keep it for another 3 years or so, we will see how much repairs it will need. The mileage is 250.000 km.  |
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Post by ES_97Sport on Dec 1, 2014 13:48:47 GMT -5
Edward FSM=?? What do U mean? My model is an 2000 V6 3,0 Litres gasoline engine with AT. I have had it since new, so soon 16 years. I have kept an accurate record of it during the years, and done all service and repairs myself (almost). For 10 years I had not one single problem or failure with the car, but the last 2 years I have faced a number. I live in Sweden and the road authorities put quite huge amount with salt on the roads in wintertime to keeep the ice and snow away, and that makes all cars corroding heavily. Also my Pajero. I plan to keep it for another 3 years or so, we will see how much repairs it will need. The mileage is 250.000 km. View AttachmentFSM = Factory Service Manuals. Sometimes people refer to the service manuals and they're really NOT looking at the actual Mitsubishi FSMs, they're looking at Haynes or something. Sometimes it makes a difference. I know inaccuracies have been found between the FSMs and aftermarket manuals and sometimes the way they point out to do things isn't the best way (or sometimes even the correct way). From my experience the only way to get accurate information on the wiring is to use the FSMs. I've run across this problem before on other things over the years. The reason I was asking about the year is because there are inconsistencies between the very early models and the the FSMs. I THINK most of that was worked out in the early '90s models here in the US. My '97s for example were shipped to the US from Japan and there ARE differences between these and the ones that were actually made in the US - and the FSMs don't document the differences. There are also differences between the models from different regions. I've run across people getting electronic sets of the "FSMs" from eBay which end up being pirated copies of the EU/Eastern Bloc vehicles and then can't figure out why some of the wiring colors/patterns are different or why a sensor/switch has one wire instead of two or the other way around. Yep. I live in CO, USA. Lots of salt here, too. Edward |
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Post by tirill on Dec 2, 2014 16:05:39 GMT -5
Here is another picture I took during the work planning! There is clearly visible that there is only one core cable from the sensor to the plug!  |
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Post by ES_97Sport on Dec 2, 2014 19:22:56 GMT -5
Here is another picture I took during the work planning! There is clearly visible that there is only one core cable from the sensor to the plug! .... Upper right? Yep. Grounds through the t-case housing. BTW, did you make sure the ground strap(s) under there are in place? Seem to remember that one goes from the t-case to the body. Edward |
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Also, make sure you don't shove any crud fro the top of the t-case into the t-case when you're trying to reinstall the switches.
