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Post by mudrunner on Aug 13, 2015 12:00:44 GMT -5
Hey all been a while since I have been around. Work and kids make life hard.
So any way replaced alt, driving to work the sport just dies. Get a new code reader crank pos sensor A wire fault brake, oil and battery light are on. I am curious if there is a fuse or relay I may be missing or something else.
2001Sport 3.5l A/T
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Post by ES_97Sport on Aug 17, 2015 16:00:54 GMT -5
Hey all been a while since I have been around. Work and kids make life hard. So any way replaced alt, driving to work the sport just dies. Get a new code reader crank pos sensor A wire fault brake, oil and battery light are on. I am curious if there is a fuse or relay I may be missing or something else. 2001Sport 3.5l A/T Dang! Sorry to hear that! What are the exact codes? Edward |
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Post by mudrunner on Aug 18, 2015 16:46:10 GMT -5
P0335 is the only code I get. I also failed to mention I grounded my ratchet to the engine while removing the battery line from old alt. May have blown the fusible link going to engine control relay.
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Post by dclambertt on Aug 18, 2015 17:06:20 GMT -5
Arrrrggg, wish you an easy fix Mud.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Aug 19, 2015 18:39:22 GMT -5
P0335 is the only code I get. I also failed to mention I grounded my ratchet to the engine while removing the battery line from old alt. May have blown the fusible link going to engine control relay. Ouch! Been there, done that.  Hope you didn't fry the ECM/PCM. Alternator still working? Edward |
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Post by mudrunner on Aug 28, 2015 12:52:05 GMT -5
I imagine it does. It won't run at all so I don't know if it is charging.
Check fuses and stuff today all things normal except coil packs. They are looking at high resistance at 1.4 with dvom set at 200 ohms. Book says .74-.90 so I don't know if this is the problem or a cause of my other problem.
Also what is bugging the crap out of me is the stupid oil light why is it on with the brake and battery light...
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Post by jkdv8 on Aug 28, 2015 20:53:00 GMT -5
Those 3 lights stay on until it is running. If they are on when it's running check the corresponding system. I don't think it will start with the crank sensor on the fritz.
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Post by buggzyy on Aug 29, 2015 23:29:42 GMT -5
Check the wiring to the crank sensor. When replacing the Alt you have to remove the other drive belts and may have pulled the sensor wiring and it got caught up in a drive belt or cut through it. I would start there.
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Post by mudrunner on Oct 6, 2015 5:56:48 GMT -5
Okay well this ended up being the Crank sensor. One of the bolts worked loose and the sensor dropped on the crank timing sprocket and busted all to pieces.
All fix and running again. However now I am working on changeing the rear shocks.
I rounded off the nut on the driver's side rear. That side is a pain in the ***!!! Any ideas for the future because it has no room!!
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Post by bdmontero on Oct 6, 2015 7:47:30 GMT -5
I think you have to pull the body off the frame;D ;D ;D  JK Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards |
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Post by pinstryper on Oct 6, 2015 9:36:46 GMT -5
I think you have to pull the body off the frame;D ;D ;D JK Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards But disconnect the battery first (g) |
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Post by ES_97Sport on Oct 6, 2015 14:18:10 GMT -5
Okay well this ended up being the Crank sensor. One of the bolts worked loose and the sensor dropped on the crank timing sprocket and busted all to pieces. All fix and running again. However now I am working on changeing the rear shocks. I rounded off the nut on the driver's side rear. That side is a pain in the ***!!! Any ideas for the future because it has no room!! Lots and lots of PB and a torch. Heat the nut up a little after letting it soak in PB for a few days. Edward |
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Hope you didn't fry the ECM/PCM. Alternator still working?
JK