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Post by loner6996 on Jan 20, 2016 20:09:21 GMT -5
Hello. I'm considering purchasing a Montero Sport and I'm wondering if there is a way to make a Montero that is 2 wheel drive into 4 wheel drive. I have a 1995 Ford f150 that I did this to and it wasn't terrible difficult. There isn't a super big selection of Monteros where I live so if I have to settle for a 2wd I was wondering if it was difficult or even possible to convert one.
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Post by pinstryper on Jan 20, 2016 20:16:41 GMT -5
VERY MUCH PAIN... Just buy a 4x4
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Post by loner6996 on Jan 20, 2016 20:33:32 GMT -5
Well where I live there is one montero with a 3.5 liter that is 2wd. there is also a nice one with a 5 speed, 4wd but it has the 3.0 How big of a difference engine wise is there?
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Post by dirk on Jan 20, 2016 20:37:01 GMT -5
Would love to have a 5 speed manual. Wish mine was
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Post by pinstryper on Jan 20, 2016 20:53:26 GMT -5
They can be fun, unless your in traffic. Get the nice 5 speed
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Post by bdmontero on Jan 20, 2016 21:32:59 GMT -5
Only problem with that 5 speed is your more likely to see a unicorn before you find replacement parts for it.
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by pinstryper on Jan 20, 2016 22:48:57 GMT -5
Next 1 I find I'm getting the trans
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jan 22, 2016 14:32:47 GMT -5
Hello. I'm considering purchasing a Montero Sport and I'm wondering if there is a way to make a Montero that is 2 wheel drive into 4 wheel drive. I have a 1995 Ford f150 that I did this to and it wasn't terrible difficult. There isn't a super big selection of Monteros where I live so if I have to settle for a 2wd I was wondering if it was difficult or even possible to convert one. Yes. Unfortunately, probably not the way you're thinking. pinstryper is correct. If you're thinking of getting a donor Sport, you're better off just fixing the donor. Transplanting the OEM drive train into a 2WD isn't worth the effort. HOWEVER, ... If you want to turn a 2WD into a 4WD, the simplest solution is to do a solid axle conversion. Before you run screaming in the other direction, this isn't as hard as it sounds. Doing a SAS on a 2WD Sport is actually easier than using a 4WD Sport. If you live where there's a big selection of Ford parts - especially the '70s Ford parts - you've already got a good selection of what you need. The easiest method is to use the Gen 1 Ford Bronco radius arm suspension for the front. Radius arms, buckets, pads, etc. Get a donor HP Dana 44 HD for the front and a D44 or 9" for the rear. The steering is a basic semi-high steer. Either Ford or GM outers depending on your preference. I use the GM outers with D52 brakes on the front and Exploder brakes on the rear. Custom drive shafts, of course. If you have a choice, use a '97-'98 2WD A/T. Those years use the Jeep Cherokee AW4 A/T which lets you bolt up the NP Jeep transfer cases. NP231 or NP241. I still DD and wheel my '97 LS Sport SAS that was done in '01. I just started the build on a '99 Limited 3.5L. Solid axle swap underway.Montero Sport Body LiftThe 5-speed M/T is great. I have two '97s. In fact, the one pictured above is a 5-speed M/T. If you're just going to drive it, that's fine. If you're going to wheel it, consider converting it to a '97-'98 A/T. There are NO options for t-cases and the only t-case gears made after market are about $1300 and are 2.88s. Not worth the money. Convert to a AW4 and put a NP231 behind it. I go through the 3.5L vs. the 3.0L in the following thread. Looking to purchase a Montero Sport; any sugestions?A good rule of thumb: Wheel the Gen 1s, drive the Gen 2s. Edward
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Post by thetexasbandit on Mar 10, 2017 13:00:34 GMT -5
More power in the 3.5 vs the 3.0
Pros for the 3.5: Good amount of getup and go. Can easily pull a SUV on a car hauler or a decent sized camper.
Cons for the 3.5: There a little harder to find in general Parts are a little harder to find Gas mileage is worse that the 3.0
Pros for the 3.0: The block is exactly identical to a 3000GT Parts are easy to find Can easily use 3000GT parts on it Gas mileage is okay.
Cons for the 3.0: Heard that it has the same common issue from the 3000GT. I've been told they are a little bit under powered.
Whether it's a 3.0 of a 3.5 they are both good motors and overall these MS are very reliable vehicles! I've had mine for about a year now and I haven't had a check engine light yet.
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Post by pinstryper on Mar 10, 2017 14:00:30 GMT -5
I still have a 97 4x4 auto for sale
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Post by ES_97Sport on Mar 10, 2017 19:44:11 GMT -5
More power in the 3.5 vs the 3.0 Pros for the 3.5: Good amount of getup and go. Can easily pull a SUV on a car hauler or a decent sized camper. More torque. The 3.5L is a totally different geometry than the 3.0L. The 3.5L is almost exactly the same geometry as a '67-74 Pontiac 350/400/455 CID. The 3.0L is like the Chevy small block 327/350 CID. Yep. Depends on the year. The '99 Limited 3.5L is a mishmash of the gen 1 and gen 2 and some things are specific to that particular year and model vehicle. Yep, although not by much. My '99 3.5L A/T gets slightly less than my '97 3.0L M/T, but not a LOT less. The 3.5L doesn't vary as much when you load it up. Mileage stays about the same for loaded vs. unloaded. No, the blocks are not identical. The Montero and Montero Sport use a block specifically designed for the SUV. There are boss differences. Internally, dimensions are the same. The 3G TT uses a '4-bolt' main cap setup for the crank. This is specific to the TT engines - but apparently not ALL TT engines. Very easy! There's a lot more aftermarket for the 3.0L. There's virtually nothing for the 3.5L. Underpowered is in the eye of the beholder. I ran the (same) 3.0L in my SAS'd 5500lb+ '97 Sport with 35"s for 500,000 miles. The 11,000ft mountain passes were a pain if you were trying to do 70 MPH, but otherwise I could do 70-80 MPH day in and day out without any issues. I have a 3.5L in the same vehicle now. The passes are a lot easier, and stop and go traffic is easier to deal with, but otherwise nothing changed. KIM, this is Denver so I have the added headache of dealing with the 5000-14,000ft altitude. You can get a lot better performance from the 3.0L by swapping axle gears from the 4.2 to the 4.6 set out of a M/T. Or even the 4.90s if you're running bigger tires. There are some relatively minor things that can be easily done to the 3.0L that will definitely improve performance. My still all time favorite configuration that I wish Mitsu had built is the 3.5L with the V5MT1 manual transmission. That's what I have in my '97 Sport with the equivalent of the M/T 4.60s in a vehicle that weights 6000lbs unloaded, and its a kick in the pants driving around town. Loaded out for Moab its about 6800-7000lbs and I can STILL do 60-70 MPH up the passes and 75-80 MPH all day long without breaking a sweat. Reliable is an understatement. Edward
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Post by thetexasbandit on Mar 10, 2017 23:43:19 GMT -5
More power in the 3.5 vs the 3.0 Pros for the 3.5: Good amount of getup and go. Can easily pull a SUV on a car hauler or a decent sized camper. More torque. The 3.5L is a totally different geometry than the 3.0L. The 3.5L is almost exactly the same geometry as a '67-74 Pontiac 350/400/455 CID. The 3.0L is like the Chevy small block 327/350 CID. Yep. Depends on the year. The '99 Limited 3.5L is a mishmash of the gen 1 and gen 2 and some things are specific to that particular year and model vehicle. Yep, although not by much. My '99 3.5L A/T gets slightly less than my '97 3.0L M/T, but not a LOT less. The 3.5L doesn't vary as much when you load it up. Mileage stays about the same for loaded vs. unloaded. No, the blocks are not identical. The Montero and Montero Sport use a block specifically designed for the SUV. There are boss differences. Internally, dimensions are the same. The 3G TT uses a '4-bolt' main cap setup for the crank. This is specific to the TT engines - but apparently not ALL TT engines. Very easy! There's a lot more aftermarket for the 3.0L. There's virtually nothing for the 3.5L. Underpowered is in the eye of the beholder. I ran the (same) 3.0L in my SAS'd 5500lb+ '97 Sport with 35"s for 500,000 miles. The 11,000ft mountain passes were a pain if you were trying to do 70 MPH, but otherwise I could do 70-80 MPH day in and day out without any issues. I have a 3.5L in the same vehicle now. The passes are a lot easier, and stop and go traffic is easier to deal with, but otherwise nothing changed. KIM, this is Denver so I have the added headache of dealing with the 5000-14,000ft altitude. You can get a lot better performance from the 3.0L by swapping axle gears from the 4.2 to the 4.6 set out of a M/T. Or even the 4.90s if you're running bigger tires. There are some relatively minor things that can be easily done to the 3.0L that will definitely improve performance. My still all time favorite configuration that I wish Mitsu had built is the 3.5L with the V5MT1 manual transmission. That's what I have in my '97 Sport with the equivalent of the M/T 4.60s in a vehicle that weights 6000lbs unloaded, and its a kick in the pants driving around town. Loaded out for Moab its about 6800-7000lbs and I can STILL do 60-70 MPH up the passes and 75-80 MPH all day long without breaking a sweat. Reliable is an understatement. Edward Thanks for clarifying lol kinda new at it and all I was going on what a tech in OKC told me lol.i got a 3.5XS and I haven't had any problems with it.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Mar 13, 2017 14:09:22 GMT -5
... Thanks for clarifying lol kinda new at it and all I was going on what a tech in OKC told me lol.i got a 3.5XS and I haven't had any problems with it. No worries! I actually like both engines. Both have definite benefits depending on your use. The best rule of thumb I have is that if you're worried about fuel mileage get the 3.0L and if you're towing or carrying a lot of weight get the 3.5L. My personal preference is the 3.5L but a good part of that is because I'm an old Pontiac guy. I LIKE torquey engines and the 3.5L is definitely that. Its just too bad you can't tell how much with the A/T. The 3.0L is a lot more high strung than 3.5L. If you're used to driving small sports cars then that engine will be a lot more familiar. The 3.0L is a happy clam between 3000-4500 RPM. The big downside to the 3.0L in the Sports becomes apparent off road. The 1.9x:1 transfer case gearing is pathetically tall irrespective of what OEM axle gears were installed, and only gets worse as the tires get bigger. While this is still a poor band-aid, the extra torque the 3.5L produces between 1000-2500 RPM helps considerably. Edward
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Post by thetexasbandit on Mar 16, 2017 3:28:55 GMT -5
... Thanks for clarifying lol kinda new at it and all I was going on what a tech in OKC told me lol.i got a 3.5XS and I haven't had any problems with it. No worries! I actually like both engines. Both have definite benefits depending on your use. The best rule of thumb I have is that if you're worried about fuel mileage get the 3.0L and if you're towing or carrying a lot of weight get the 3.5L. My personal preference is the 3.5L but a good part of that is because I'm an old Pontiac guy. I LIKE torquey engines and the 3.5L is definitely that. Its just too bad you can't tell how much with the A/T. The 3.0L is a lot more high strung than 3.5L. If you're used to driving small sports cars then that engine will be a lot more familiar. The 3.0L is a happy clam between 3000-4500 RPM. The big downside to the 3.0L in the Sports becomes apparent off road. The 1.9x:1 transfer case gearing is pathetically tall irrespective of what OEM axle gears were installed, and only gets worse as the tires get bigger. While this is still a poor band-aid, the extra torque the 3.5L produces between 1000-2500 RPM helps considerably. Edward Lol i guess I just lucked out on getting the 3.5XS. I love it a lot. And like you said it sucks that they are pretty much all A/T although it would be cool to see a M/T matted to a 3.5 maybe there's a Mitsubishi vehicle out there that had this motor and had the option of a M/T?
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Post by dirk on Mar 16, 2017 8:49:28 GMT -5
Pretty sure I've seen MTs on some of the upper end MSs overseas. Once it hits 25 years old (in about 8.5 years) I've been thinking of ordering a manual transmission and one of the turbo diesel engines they had overseas. Some of them put out a lot of low end torque. And after its 25 years old I believe in NY you no longer need to worry about emissions.
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