RAS
Newbie
Posts: 2
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Post by RAS on Jan 26, 2003 13:42:24 GMT -5
At 58K, it's almost time for front brakes, and I'm wondering about aftermarket rotors. I noticed Brembo makes a rotor for the MS, and I'm wondering if anyone has tried them and received better performance and/or resistance to warping.
I feel the stock brakes work OK, but the front rotors seem to warp easily - mine have been turned once, and have warped again. I'm not hard on the brakes either, as I have a 5-speed and often downshift when stopping. Can't imagine what it would be like if I had an automatic....
Thoughts appreciated.
-RAS
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Post by steveo124 on Feb 1, 2003 9:39:15 GMT -5
I have changed my rotors with Raybestos Rotors and Quiet Stop Brake Pads. One of the rotors was made by Brembo and stamp on the rotor but the other was stamped Raybestos. They probably come from the same place. Now back to the brakes. After two months with new brake they warped two. I think the brakes are two small for this heavy Montero.
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Post by we2golf on Feb 20, 2003 23:27:45 GMT -5
I had my stock rotors turned, and put on a set of EBC 6000 composit pads. They grip firmer and run cooler, and I have had little warped rotor shudder since putting them on.
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Post by mdhoward on Feb 21, 2003 12:21:26 GMT -5
I was going to change my pads this weekend and was curious if there is anything I need to watch out for, problems, etc in doing this.
Thanks!
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Post by Joel_CA on Feb 21, 2003 14:08:46 GMT -5
Prior to removing the wheel, grip the tire at the 12 and 6 oclock position and see if there's any movement at the wheel bearing by attempting to wobble the wheel assembly back and forth.... if everything is okay - and you have no noticable brake pedal pulsation and/or steering wheel shimmy with the brakes applied [/b], go ahead and slap on a new set of pads. I'd normally recommend resurfacing the rotors and repacking the bearings for every brake service, but if your gonna do this on your own.....you can save some time and money with just a pad slap. If you notice that the caliper pins are going dry- clean off the pins with some part wash and a rag, and relube them prior to putting the caliper back on the bracket....otherwise, your rotors may end of siezing somewhere down the road.
Should there be some movement at the wheel bearings when you check them. I'd recommend a full repack and resurface, which requires a special tool to properly set the wheel bearing preload (100+ ft/lbs) to it's initial load. Final load is at 18 ft/lbs (if the locking plate does not line up with the adjustment collar holes, loosen from that point- do NOT go tighter to line them up). Failure to set the initial load will result in the preload adjustment loosening prematurely....
On 2wd models with rear drum brakes: if your e brake handle is waaaaay up there with the ebrakes applied or if the ebrake is not holding your vehicle at the 4th-5th click at an "average driveway" slope.....adjust your drums. This will allow for a bit more rear brake assistance and may prolong the life of your front brakes and/or reduce the tendancy to warp (pulsate). DO NOT OVERADJUST OR THE DRUMS MAY OVERHEAT AND GO OUT OF ROUND
Joel, CA
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Post by we2golf on Feb 22, 2003 0:15:07 GMT -5
I was going to change my pads this weekend and was curious if there is anything I need to watch out for, problems, etc in doing this. Thanks! As Joel indicated, be sure your rotors are true and not scored, and make sure your caliper pins are clean and lightly lubed. Be careful not to get any lube on the rotors or new pads. Other than that, I found my 2001 Sport to be the easiest vehicle to change pads on that I ever owned. The way the pad mounts swing out from the caliper is great. |
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Post by mdhoward on Feb 24, 2003 10:30:15 GMT -5
Thanks for the info and input guys on the brake job. As We2golf said this was by far the quickest job I have done. I spent more time trying to get the truck jacked up I think than I did actually doing the brake job.
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