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Post by Baldie on Apr 21, 2004 9:11:47 GMT -5
I am planning on putting some subs however wanted to know from people if there's alot of rattling within the MS when the subs are bumping? Will I need to dynomat anything? I'm not trying to go all extravagant on it, so I plan on just getting 2 10's.
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Post by whitmans77 on Apr 21, 2004 11:04:00 GMT -5
ive got to Punch 10's and i have gotten very little rattling. I thought about dynamat but havent felt the need to go that route---good luck
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Post by sirlordoz on Apr 27, 2004 23:24:39 GMT -5
im running 2 tens with 2400 watts, the rattles i have is from the rear plate and the wind deflecter for the rear window (wing) the only other thing that is bad is the overhead concoul in front. i shaved the wing and thats gone, i think im going to do the same with the overhead. and im going to get the dynamate plate thing for the last prob. but if u are running a smaller set up u may not have to worry about much more than the plate! Lata
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Post by LexNKS on Apr 27, 2004 23:53:18 GMT -5
I have a 2000 Ms, and i have found that from the oustide of the car u can hear virtually no rat rattling. I'm pushing 2 12 inch Kicker Comp Vrs with a thousand watt amp begind them. So you should be pretty well of f with 10's. I do hoever suggest that if your licence plate is wrattling, swing by ace hardwore and pick up some rubber washers and put them behind the screws that hold your tag on. Totally takes away the rattling
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Post by Baldie on May 18, 2004 9:46:13 GMT -5
In order for me to hook up my amp and subs, all I need to do is run RCA cables from my aftermarket deck to the amp right (Left/Right)? Then just hook up the woofers to my amp. I'll also need to run the power cable from my battery to my amp. Is that how you basically hook up a sub and amp?
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Post by Paintballer08 on May 18, 2004 11:57:08 GMT -5
dont forget the switched power from the head unit. And a fuse no farther than 12 inches away from the battery for the +12V for the amp. Scrape the paint away down to the metal where you connect the ground wire terminal.
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Post by Baldie on May 18, 2004 14:01:45 GMT -5
switched power from the head unit? I dont understand.
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Post by kcmedic on May 18, 2004 14:08:04 GMT -5
The head unit should have a remote turn on lead that tells the amp to turn on when the head unit is turned on.
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Post by Baldie on May 18, 2004 17:48:12 GMT -5
Is there a way to have an on/off switch for the amp itself without turning the deck on and off? There will be times when I'd like to listen to music without all the pounding bass from the subs.
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Post by sirlordoz on May 18, 2004 18:43:32 GMT -5
U can do that but it would be better just to change the adjustments on the headunit. Once u get it in there u will miss it if its off! u just may want to turn down the sub a bit. Depending on the amp u can get a remote gain control that werks great. I cant live with out mine! But i would recomend using the headunit switched power i know many people that have done that and forgot to turn it off and the car is dead the next day! just something to think about lata Oz
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Post by Baldie on May 18, 2004 22:34:22 GMT -5
what kind of box I should I use for my subs? I know theres bandpass and just a regular sub box.
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Post by mitsubishiL200 on May 24, 2004 23:15:42 GMT -5
"""""Posted by: Baldie Posted on: 05/18/2004 at 17:48:12 Is there a way to have an on/off switch for the amp itself without turning the deck on and off? There will be times when I'd like to listen to music without all the pounding bass from the subs."""" A great way to switch the power on and off- with your blue wire- your remote wire that you run from your amp to your head unit- just put a button/ toggle/ whatever king of switch you want. Adds a really nice touch to a system.
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Post by Baldie on May 25, 2004 16:44:17 GMT -5
what about the type of box I should use?
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Post by jphillips on May 28, 2004 9:59:21 GMT -5
I have 2 12 in kove audio subs and about 400 watts i chose to do a down fire sealed box so i can still use the rear for storage and traveling. Like stated before my overhead console rattled the worst. I do have a lot of rattle from my roof. Ive been doing car audio for 12 years and as far as an SUV goes these do very well against rattles.
As far as box's go it really depends on the types of subs you choose. some subs hate bandpass, plus your power handling goes down. but they do hit hard.
The RCA's and turn on lead should be run down the oposite side of the power wire. if power is on driver side rca and turn on go down the pass. side. this help eliminate the chance of engine noise in the system
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Post by JoeCool on Jul 19, 2004 16:38:45 GMT -5
ok first off I have a 2000 MS limited and I have an over head compartment for a garage door opener that rattles like a mad man and to the question about the box GO BANDPASS !!
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