Hotwire A/C auxiliary fan?
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Post by bdmontero on Apr 15, 2015 13:41:45 GMT -5
Ya you would think. I think its a green 40 amp fuse. That's what mine was kind of doing and the fuse was blown along time ago.
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by youngblood on Apr 18, 2015 17:45:03 GMT -5
Wow good job! who would have thought the temp sensor.
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Post by bdmontero on Apr 18, 2015 19:10:30 GMT -5
Glad it was an easy fix. Temp sensors aren't hard to replace.
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by russiankid on Apr 19, 2015 9:11:47 GMT -5
Odd thing happened yesterday. I left work and it was roughly 80 out. I turned the A/C on, and as usual the condensor fan kicks on. After driving to my buddies house and waiting for him outside, idling with the air on, the condensor fan decides to kick on again. That has never happened before, I didn't change anything so not sure what is going on here.
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Post by colted on Jul 17, 2015 0:24:12 GMT -5
ha....thought I had the issue fully resolved but problem is reoccuring again, was overheating this noon when traffic was a little backed up. Again aux fan not turning on unless I turn ac off for 5sec then back on.....arrggh!
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Post by bdmontero on Jul 17, 2015 8:12:14 GMT -5
I spect a faulty ac fan or temp switch.
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by colted on Jul 17, 2015 10:17:03 GMT -5
I spect a faulty ac fan or temp switch. Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards aux fan works fine and strong the first start up or I mean if you turn on/off the AC.....just doesn't cycle with the compressor afterwards.....just got the ECT replaced about 2 years ago.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jul 17, 2015 14:59:37 GMT -5
I spect a faulty ac fan or temp switch. Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards aux fan works fine and strong the first start up or I mean if you turn on/off the AC.....just doesn't cycle with the compressor afterwards.....just got the ECT replaced about 2 years ago. If memory serves ... on the '00-'05 there is a control module under the dash and the PCM also has not only the A/C compressor clutch relay but condenser fan relay circuits. Edward
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Post by colted on Jul 17, 2015 15:18:18 GMT -5
aux fan works fine and strong the first start up or I mean if you turn on/off the AC.....just doesn't cycle with the compressor afterwards.....just got the ECT replaced about 2 years ago. If memory serves ... on the '00-'05 there is a control module under the dash and the PCM also has not only the A/C compressor clutch relay but condenser fan relay circuits. Edward Hi Edward....you mean the whole climate control module? I am leaning towards the climate control, Edward......out of curiosity today, I tried running the AC on with the air recirculate button turned off, to my surprise the auxiliary fan was running at 95 heat. Grrrr....I hate how Mitsubishi made the auxiliary fan operation on the Montero this complicated!
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jul 20, 2015 14:50:52 GMT -5
If memory serves ... on the '00-'05 there is a control module under the dash and the PCM also has not only the A/C compressor clutch relay but condenser fan relay circuits. Edward Hi Edward....you mean the whole climate control module? I am leaning towards the climate control, Edward......out of curiosity today, I tried running the AC on with the air recirculate button turned off, to my surprise the auxiliary fan was running at 95 heat. Grrrr....I hate how Mitsubishi made the auxiliary fan operation on the Montero this complicated! I don't know if its the entire unit or if there's other pieces. I remember from going through the PCM wiring when I was trying to do the ECM/PCM swap the last couple years. Sorry, not much help here I'm afraid. The '97-'99 2.4L and 3.0L use an ECM without the integration of the new PCM models so its a completely different setup. There's a controller that sits behind the dash above the heater box if I remember correctly. Not that that's any help. The A/C fan is supposed to turn on and off but i don't know what the criteria is for when it cycles. I THINK - if I remember correctly - that is what's controlled by the PCM. The '00-'05 is a lot more intellegent than the old '90s models. That used to be handled by the control module under the dash. I suspect you're correct. My thought would be the PCM otherwise, but I think that's a long, LONG shot. Its not as complicated as it sounds - there's just a lot of parts. You can't keep the fan on all the time of the condenser will freeze so it has to cycle. Also, there's the fast idle for when the compressor is engaged which pulls in the IAC, of course - all managed - I believe - by the PCM. Then you have the climate control itself involved. Lots of little parts to get everything to work correctly. OH, I think I remember there's a temp sensor on the A/C, too, along with the pressure sensor stuff. Edward
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Post by colted on Jul 24, 2015 17:14:44 GMT -5
Hi Edward....you mean the whole climate control module? I am leaning towards the climate control, Edward......out of curiosity today, I tried running the AC on with the air recirculate button turned off, to my surprise the auxiliary fan was running at 95 heat. Grrrr....I hate how Mitsubishi made the auxiliary fan operation on the Montero this complicated! I don't know if its the entire unit or if there's other pieces. I remember from going through the PCM wiring when I was trying to do the ECM/PCM swap the last couple years. Sorry, not much help here I'm afraid. The '97-'99 2.4L and 3.0L use an ECM without the integration of the new PCM models so its a completely different setup. There's a controller that sits behind the dash above the heater box if I remember correctly. Not that that's any help. The A/C fan is supposed to turn on and off but i don't know what the criteria is for when it cycles. I THINK - if I remember correctly - that is what's controlled by the PCM. The '00-'05 is a lot more intellegent than the old '90s models. That used to be handled by the control module under the dash. I suspect you're correct. My thought would be the PCM otherwise, but I think that's a long, LONG shot. Its not as complicated as it sounds - there's just a lot of parts. You can't keep the fan on all the time of the condenser will freeze so it has to cycle. Also, there's the fast idle for when the compressor is engaged which pulls in the IAC, of course - all managed - I believe - by the PCM. Then you have the climate control itself involved. Lots of little parts to get everything to work correctly. OH, I think I remember there's a temp sensor on the A/C, too, along with the pressure sensor stuff. Edward thanks for the tireless replies, Edward!....I'll probably leave it as it is for now since I'm not literally overheating, just temp is going beyond normal when into a long bumper-to-bumper traffic which is quite rare to happen & encounter.....I can't turn off the recirculate button anyway to augment if needed be.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jul 24, 2015 18:42:20 GMT -5
... thanks for the tireless replies, Edward!....I'll probably leave it as it is for now since I'm not literally overheating, just temp is going beyond normal .... No worries! I've been kinda refreshing myself on the A/C here the last couple days. I need to swap engine cooling fans anyway, so I'm planning on running the last wire from the SPAL controller that turns on the fans to full when the A/C is turned on. I also started rereading my ECM/PCM notes. I didn't remember that I'd documented the A/C ECM/PCM interaction that thoroughly. Need to re-read that. May be something useful in there if you want to take a look at the PDFs on my site. What is the ECT going up to when it warms up? 'Warm' and 'Overheating' is kind of a gray area on our Sports. The dash gauge isn't exactly a good indicator. 10 degrees can cause a pretty big swing in the needle (or not) but 10 degrees really isn't that much of a variation in engine temperature. "Normal operating temperature" - and I use that term loosely - is between about 193ish and 200ish. That's where the needle is just slightly lower than horizontal. I consider "Warm" to be about 210-212. This is right about 3/4 on my '90s Sports; 208 is about 5/8ths on my '03. "Overheating" is about 218. This is the little line on the gauge for the '90s. Don't know on the '00s since I've never got that hot on the '03 and don't care to experiment. I've been up, down and backwards over this with many techs for 15 years and NO ONE has EVER been able to tell me what exactly normal, hot and warm are. I can't count how many posts I've read of people asking these same questions and no one ever gets a hard answer. Nothing in the FSMs, either - which is probably why the techs don't know. My 3.5L '03 will fairly regularly touch 206/208 if its really hot out irrespective of A/C being on. It doesn't stay there but its long enough to see. That's on a bone stock, perfectly maintained vehicle. Techs say that's normal and nothing to even bother thinking about. 'Normal' - where it spends most of its time - is in the high 190s to 202. 'Normal' in the winter here in CO is 195 with almost no fluctuation at all. 'Normal' on my 3.0L '90s Sports - stock - is 193/196 when its cool to 199/200ish when its really hot out. Less fluctuation than my '03. Rarely do they climb into the low 200s unless its blazing hot and I'm parked for quite a bit with the A/C on. After going through this with the techs, the general consensus is anywhere between 192/3 and 208/210, staying on the lowish side except under load, is 'normal'. Fluctuation between these temps they don't consider unusual, unless there's some unusual pattern showing up. So, if it stays between about 195 and 200 at idle with the A/C off, that's pretty much it. I think this is really stupid and if I saw a 15 degree fluctuation in ECT on my 'Bird, I'd be really upset and looking for problems. I run a 200 degree thermostat in my 'Bird and at 200 degrees it stays unless its well below freezing. So, I guess my point is that what you, me, or anyone else considers 'warm' is just an opinion. Could end up chasing a problem that doesn't really exist. Anyway, just my 2 cents. Edward
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Post by colted on Jul 24, 2015 21:15:02 GMT -5
... thanks for the tireless replies, Edward!....I'll probably leave it as it is for now since I'm not literally overheating, just temp is going beyond normal .... No worries! I've been kinda refreshing myself on the A/C here the last couple days. I need to swap engine cooling fans anyway, so I'm planning on running the last wire from the SPAL controller that turns on the fans to full when the A/C is turned on. I also started rereading my ECM/PCM notes. I didn't remember that I'd documented the A/C ECM/PCM interaction that thoroughly. Need to re-read that. May be something useful in there if you want to take a look at the PDFs on my site. What is the ECT going up to when it warms up? 'Warm' and 'Overheating' is kind of a gray area on our Sports. The dash gauge isn't exactly a good indicator. 10 degrees can cause a pretty big swing in the needle (or not) but 10 degrees really isn't that much of a variation in engine temperature. "Normal operating temperature" - and I use that term loosely - is between about 193ish and 200ish. That's where the needle is just slightly lower than horizontal. I consider "Warm" to be about 210-212. This is right about 3/4 on my '90s Sports; 208 is about 5/8ths on my '03. "Overheating" is about 218. This is the little line on the gauge for the '90s. Don't know on the '00s since I've never got that hot on the '03 and don't care to experiment. I've been up, down and backwards over this with many techs for 15 years and NO ONE has EVER been able to tell me what exactly normal, hot and warm are. I can't count how many posts I've read of people asking these same questions and no one ever gets a hard answer. Nothing in the FSMs, either - which is probably why the techs don't know. My 3.5L '03 will fairly regularly touch 206/208 if its really hot out irrespective of A/C being on. It doesn't stay there but its long enough to see. That's on a bone stock, perfectly maintained vehicle. Techs say that's normal and nothing to even bother thinking about. 'Normal' - where it spends most of its time - is in the high 190s to 202. 'Normal' in the winter here in CO is 195 with almost no fluctuation at all. 'Normal' on my 3.0L '90s Sports - stock - is 193/196 when its cool to 199/200ish when its really hot out. Less fluctuation than my '03. Rarely do they climb into the low 200s unless its blazing hot and I'm parked for quite a bit with the A/C on. After going through this with the techs, the general consensus is anywhere between 192/3 and 208/210, staying on the lowish side except under load, is 'normal'. Fluctuation between these temps they don't consider unusual, unless there's some unusual pattern showing up. So, if it stays between about 195 and 200 at idle with the A/C off, that's pretty much it. I think this is really stupid and if I saw a 15 degree fluctuation in ECT on my 'Bird, I'd be really upset and looking for problems. I run a 200 degree thermostat in my 'Bird and at 200 degrees it stays unless its well below freezing. So, I guess my point is that what you, me, or anyone else considers 'warm' is just an opinion. Could end up chasing a problem that doesn't really exist. Anyway, just my 2 cents. Edward all points taken, Edward....you're right, we may just be chasing a wild goose then,lol.....all the more reason for me to buy an Ultragauge this year....
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jul 27, 2015 12:59:22 GMT -5
... all points taken, Edward....you're right, we may just be chasing a wild goose then,lol.....all the more reason for me to buy an Ultragauge this year.... No worries. Yea, wish I knew for sure, though. I've worked on a lot of cars and trucks and been around this stuff since I was born. If there was a fluctuation in ECT then something was broke. Its hard to adjust to 'well, if there isn't steam pouring out of the engine bay then its all ok'. Sigh. A decent gauge or just pulling from OBD is very helpful. The dash gauge drives me nuts. I have three Sports (well, 4 now) and they all display different. Parts says its the same sensor for everything from '97 to '05. Crazy. July 1998->on Engine 6G72 3.0L (88°C/190°F) Thermostat valve opening temperature F: 190.4° ± 3.6° Full-opening temperature F: 212° 1997->June 1998 Engine 6G72 3.0L (82°C/180°F) Thermostat valve opening temperature F: 180° ± 2.7° Full-opening temperature F: 203° This, BTW, is from the FSMs. Note that full open isn't until 212 degrees. So, what I read this to mean is that the engine can't be overheating before 212 because the thermostat isn't completely open until 212. I think that makes sense logically, but ... Parts told me a while back that the second thermostat isn't available anymore, either. They only list the top one. I can understand why, too. Below freezing the engine wouldn't warm up. Below zero I was lucky to get the thing up to 160. Edward
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