New 01 Montero Sport owner. Problems & lift questions.

[redraif]

Hello everyone.

We are now, by default, the owners of a 2001 Montero Sport XLS 4x4 with approx 239,000 on the original motor.





Short version:
My step-daughter wanted it and bought it. We helped her fix it so it was reliable and safe. She drove it for about a year. Then decided it was too big and wanted a car instead. My spouse agreed since the insurance on the Montero Sport for a 17 year old was ridiculous. The spouse's plan: buy her out of it for what she invested and sell it ourselves.

Famous last words.... lol.

Just before my daughter decided she did not want the rig, she let her x-boyfriend drive the SUV into 3 feet of mud. It got stuck and had to be pulled out with a wrecker. Of course they never cleaned off the mud either. She also left us with a check engine light for the transmission (aka won't pass emissions). It can't be tagged or sold till it's fixed.

We decided to let it sit till we could gather up the funds to chase the issue with the code. I don't mess with transmissions. In the interim, we changed insurance companies. The new company split our policies so my daughter was compartmentalized. A quote revealed the insurance for us with the Montero was very reasonable. Then factor in that we have so much in it in past repairs that we could never get our money back out, so I suggested we just fix it and keep it. My step son just had a little boy, so an SUV would be a great addition to the corral.

So I have decided now is the time to get him going. Just got him insured and the transmission check engine light will be looked at Monday by the shop.

While it's there I want to sort out its other issue.... tires! I hope to install something this Saturday. Yes I have searched, but have just gotten more confused.

We have Bald cracking tires: PO had 235/70 r16 on it. From what I have read it comes with 255/70 r16s. If I have to replace the tires, I want to take it wider and taller. At stock ride height and with the stock 16in rims, how tall and wide can you go without rubbing.

In searching, I have gotten more confused then not, due to folks discussing 31 32 and 33's on 15 inch rims. I just need normal tire sizes... lol. From what I have seen in searching The general consensus is 265/75r16 will fit on factory 16s with factory ride height? Yes? But what if I want bigger? Plus there is nothing available used in this size.

I must say.... For now this will be a hwy pavement only rig. Once money is a bit looser, I will commit to setting it up for some fun on other surfaces. Aka Proper lift to body and suspension.

I have seen some folks mention 285/75r16s? I love the look. Most have a lift with it though, which I dont. I even remember someone say they installed them with the body lifted only.

So can anyone say if the 285 will work on pavement driving only with stock ride height? Where does rubbing occur when this size is on the rig at stock height? How bad is it? See I can get this size used and will jump on it if I can make it work. Plus I really want something this size. I tried to talk the wife into going for used on a smaller temporarily, but was told.... we are not doing this twice. Get one set, used, one time, to last! So I'm pushing 285...

If it scrubs at 'lock to lock' will a 1.5 in hubcentric spacer alleviate this? I think i can talk her into a set. Where else might rub? Will just a bumper trim fix any rubs up front? Are we talking dangerous rub (puncture tire, rip off or bend fender) or just annoying (noises and wear) Again it's not going off road at all!

If the spacers won't make it work, can I simply do a 2in body lift? Folks have made that sound reasonable. Like under $150. Any diy on doing it? I have seen folks mention pads for the rear and cranking torsion bars in the front. But no links to kits or parts or DIYs. Little help on this?

I have seen reference to the OME kit. This is a suspension lift right? Different from a body lift? The price tag is a bit steep right now. $810.00 for heavy duty. Yipes! It's just with all the current repairs and needing new tires, the budget is not there for it.

[redraif]

Ok so I've not stopped reading. Lol.

Still trying to understand lifts... I mess around with cars a lot just not this way. We have always lowered cars lol. Firebirds, mustangs, & Fieros.

Am I understanding correctly that when lifting...

A BASIC minimum Suspension lift would consist of cranking the torsion bars up front. Then in the rear, because of my year 01 and being a sport, that I would have to purchase replacement springs and longer shocks?
I have also read that the sports are sprung so they sit higher in the rear. So conceivably I can crank the front to even it with the rear?

Any diy on messing with the torsion bars?

Then on to the body lift. 2 inch max before you have to extend lines. You have to buy something for another vehicle that has body blocks? You loosen bolt connecting body to frame? Then slip in 10 blocks? You take you stock bolts to the hardware store to swap for grade 8 bolts that are 2 inches longer? Is that the basics?

Any links to a diy? It would be nice to know where are the bolts located and where is the best place to slip in the blocks. Also what kit for what suv/truck or what do the blocks look like? Someone said Summit. Well Summit is down the road but i need to know what i need to buy. What substance are they made of? Any substitutions I can make with items from a hardware store?

I just need some guidance as I'm a visual learner. Heck I will even put a diy together myself.... lol!

One I did for the fiero....
www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/118751.html#lastpost

[redraif]

A bit of the history on this rig as far as the repairs and services we have done since my daughter purchased it.
Purchased it in late 2011
$600.00 with 223,000 miles INOP (bad trans)
*New used transmission (fully serviced at install)
**(They destroyed the 4x4 shifter assembly nylon bushings- still working on fixing this)
**(Came home with flashing 4x4 light
*Check engine light for EGR and o2s (they were all stock). EGR, EGR Solenoid, all O2s replaced
*Timing Belt and water pump (PO did not think it was ever done)
*Air Filter
*Valve cover gaskets (both leaked at the rear)
*Gaskets below valve cover gaskets both sides (yep they leaked too)
235,000: 2012
*Brake pads on all 4 corners
My Daughter let her boyfriend take it for the swim in 3 feet of mud.
Here is the mud incident my daughter caught on film: lol



*Spark plugs & wires
*PCV
*A/C pulley repaired (seized up due to mud)
239,000:
2013
*Check engine light: transmission code (SUV parked)
2014 (December)
*Dead battery
*Check engine light: TPS (thank you mud!)
*4x4 solenoid valves (2) (thank you mud!) 4x4 light is gone!!!
*timesert repair on leaky oil pan
*EGR tract cleaned
*EGR solenoid: replacement failed

I gave the beast a bath yesterday and changed out the busted taillight my daughter graced us with.

[ES_97Sport]

Dec 13, 2014 23:39:24 GMT -5 redraif said:

Hello everyone.

Welcome!

Just before my daughter decided she did not want the rig, she let her x-boyfriend drive the SUV into 3 feet of mud. It got stuck and had to be pulled out with a wrecker. Of course they never cleaned off the mud either. She also left us with a check engine light for the transmission (aka won't pass emissions). It can't be tagged or sold till it's fixed.

Ouch!

...While it's there I want to sort out its other issue.... tires! I hope to install something this Saturday. Yes I have searched, but have just gotten more confused.

We have Bald cracking tires: PO had 235/70 r16 on it. From what I have read it comes with 255/70 r16s. If I have to replace the tires, I want to take it wider and taller. At stock ride height and with the stock 16in rims, how tall and wide can you go without rubbing. ...

In searching, I have gotten more confused then not, due to folks discussing 31 32 and 33's on 15 inch rims. I just need normal tire sizes... lol. From what I have seen in searching The general consensus is 265/75r16 will fit on factory 16s with factory ride height? Yes? But what if I want bigger? Plus there is nothing available used in this size.

I must say.... For now this will be a hwy pavement only rig. Once money is a bit looser, I will commit to setting it up for some fun on other surfaces. Aka Proper lift to body and suspension.

Ok. This is my site. Go to "Tools, Gear->Calculate Gear Ratio, Tire Size, etc.->Convert Metric tire to Standard" (last calculator on the page) This might help when translating between flotation and metric.

Calculators ...

The stock number you quoted is 30" in flotation. The 265s are almost 32"s. 31.65". If I remember correctly - and I can't check since my '03 is at home today - this is what I run on mine. They fit well, with no contact even off road and they're not so big that they'll tank your gas mileage or cause accelerated drive train wear issues. If you're planning on a dual purpose vehicle, then I'd stick with this size in an A/T.

Specifically, I'd choose the Yokohama Geolandar A/T-S. They're reasonably priced, wear well and evenly and if you decide to take it off road, they're extremely capable. I don't know if this is an issue there, but they're also very good snow/slush tires. I've run these for years on stock or mostly stock Sports and currently have them on both my stock '97 LS 3.0L and my '03 Limited AWD 3.5L - both of which have been off road with these tire in Moab so I know very well how these tire behave.

Tirerack - Yoko Geolander A/T-S

BTW, flotation, i.e. 31", 32", 35", ARE normal tire sizes. Been around a lot longer than P metric and in the off road world, this is ALL you will see. Best get acquainted with these sizes.

I have seen some folks mention 285/75r16s? I love the look. Most have a lift with it though, which I dont. I even remember someone say they installed them with the body lifted only.

285x75R16 is just under a 33". 32.83". Might as well call it a 33". With a 1.5-2" body lift these will most certainly fit.

So can anyone say if the 285 will work on pavement driving only with stock ride height? Where does rubbing occur when this size is on the rig at stock height? How bad is it? See I can get this size used and will jump on it if I can make it work. Plus I really want something this size. I tried to talk the wife into going for used on a smaller temporarily, but was told.... we are not doing this twice. Get one set, used, one time, to last! So I'm pushing 285...

Someone on here might correct me, but I'm pretty sure these will not work on a stock setup. The problem will be in the front. How bit of a problem is going to depend on your vehicle. All Sports - and I know this sounds stupid - are not created equal. I know that there's no way these would fit on my '03, even though there isn't any difference in the body or drive train between '00 and '05. My 3.5L Limited  AWD sits lower than say a 3.0L LS.

If it scrubs at 'lock to lock' will a 1.5 in hubcentric spacer alleviate this? I think i can talk her into a set. Where else might rub? Will just a bumper trim fix any rubs up front? Are we talking dangerous rub (puncture tire, rip off or bend fender) or just annoying (noises and wear) Again it's not going off road at all!

Problems are going to be clearing the rear bottom of the well and the front fascia. So, body clearance is really the problem. Wheel spacers won't fix this.

BTW, wheel spacers are not really a good idea in the first place for their own reasons. No one should be recommending them.

If the spacers won't make it work, can I simply do a 2in body lift? Folks have made that sound reasonable. Like under $150. Any diy on doing it?

First, yes, a couple hundred would do a body lift if you were going to do ALL the work. If you do a body lift, go with the minimum height necessary to get what you want. If it takes 1" - do a 1". Don't do a 2" just 'cause. The taller the body lift the more problems you're going to create for yourself.

A 1"-1.5" will be reasonably easy. The problem with doing body lifts on Japanese vehicles is the wiring. Everything is JUST ABOUT the exact length needed. They don't included inches of extra so if you go too high you have to start splicing wires. Unless you're very good with electrical automotive wiring, you don't want to go there. It introduces a load of extra work that has to be done EXACTLY CORRECT and if you screw up, you can end up chasing problems you may never find.

There isn't a Mitsu specific body lift. You will need to get the correct pucks out of another kit, for a Toyota for instance, and then get the correct bolts. I know some have gotten the 2" pucks and cut them down to 1.5". So, again, this is not a drop in, but it's doable.

I have seen folks mention pads for the rear and cranking torsion bars in the front. But no links to kits or parts or DIYs. Little help on this?

The bad news is there aren't but a couple suspension lift kits. OME and Iron Man are the only two I'm aware of and I don't know if Iron Man still makes theirs. There are no 'kits' for anything like body lifts, skid plates, etc. The ARB bull bar - the only bull bar/bumper still made - only fits the '97-'99. Mark still makes transfer case gears and I seem to remember he makes a set for your t-case. Asin (sp) makes manual locking hubs for the front (for non-AWD vehicles) for '97-'05. But, that pretty much sums up what's commercially available.

Skid plates are a custom job. Rock skids are either custom or semi custom. My usual technique for skids is to buy the '93 4-Runner set from All-Pro in SoCal without legs and have them fitted with legs and welded to the chassis locally.

Leaf springs are available semi-custom from Alcan here in Grand Junction, CO, based on my work with them over the years. There isn't anyone here in the US that specifically makes lifted coil springs for the Montero or Montero Sport. You CAN have several spring manufacturers custom twist a set of coils (Alcan no longer does coils). You can also get springs that will fit - you just have to have the dimensions and rate. Someone chip in - I can't remember who's supplying higher rate torsion bars now, but their available.

There's a lot more info available on 4x4 Wire regarding the coil springs. The Montero guys have been dealing with coils a LOT longer than us Sport people.

Browse here - www.4x4extremesports.com/. There's a bunch of stuff including tightening up the torsion bars. Look for my posts 'ES_97Sport' - I try to include as much info as I can when responding so a lot of the last couple years of threads will address almost everything you can imagine on a Sport.

Yes, people have installed spacers under the coil springs in the rear. I don't know what the spacers dimensions are but someone on here can chime in. I deal mostly with '97-'99 when it comes to the suspension which are leaf in the back, so I don't pay much attention to the details of measurements and such.

I have seen reference to the OME kit. This is a suspension lift right? Different from a body lift?

That's correct. The OME kit is a suspensions lift. A suspension lift raises the vehicle by changing the suspension. In the case of Sports, it includes a taller set of rear coil (or leaf) springs and either a new set of front torsion bars OR tightening up the existing front torsion bars to raise the body/chassis in relation to the wheel.

A body lift raises JUST THE BODY in relation to the chassis (frame). 'Pucks' of some length are inserted between the body and body mounts on the frame. This lifts the body away from (up) the frame thereby increasing the clearance between the wheels and the body.

A suspension lift increases clearance under the chassis and suspension members. This is good as Sports don't have much clearance under the front IFS cross member. However, the method of a suspension lift on Sports has the unfortunate side effect of increasing the spring rate in the front which inhibits wheel compression. That means you loose articulation in the front - not a good thing. Increasing the spring rate also will change the ride of the vehicle - specifically in the front. Unless you have a bull bar and winch to kinda even things out, the front can get pretty stiff and choppy.

A body lift raises the body but leaves the chassis and suspension EXACTLY where it was. This is great for fitting bigger tires and doesn't affect the 'ride' of the vehicle at all. Unfortunately, it doesn't increase ground clearance for the chassis and front suspension at all which doesn't make it practical by itself for off road use.

Both will change the COG (center of gravity) which will affect how the vehicle handles both on (curves, etc.) and off road (off camber). I've never done the measurements on a stock (or mostly stock) Sport. In theory suspension lifts are worse for handling as they move the COG up (vertically) further than a body lift in relation to the amount of lift. This theory is assumes that you don't have a vehicle with a body that weights more than a small planet. Sports are VERY heavy and a very good chunk of that is body, so this may be 6s in the end. But, its something to know, especially if you go to a very tall sidewall tire.

You will NOT be driving a sports car with 33" tires and a body/suspension lift. My DD is a '97 LS Sport with a SAS on 35x12.5x15"s and 25" if ground clearance under the frame and I'd rather drive it than my stock Sports, but you DO NOT start jerking it around or you'll end up on your roof. My experience has been that wives don't like vehicles that they have to pay attention to and actually know how to drive. Just a "FYI" moment.

Anyway, in a perfect world, you would want both. An OME suspension lift with a 1-1.5" body lift would allow you to run a 33" easily while still having half way decent articulation in the front and decent "ride" quality.

Just for the street, however, I'd pick the body lift. Just enough to fit the tires.

The price tag is a bit steep right now. $810.00 for heavy duty. Yipes! It's just with all the current repairs and needing new tires, the budget is not there for it.

Yep, not cheap.

Edward

[redraif]

Ahhh... thank you Edward! You were the one whose posts gave me hope I make the tires work.

I hoped the floatation measurements were as simple as you stated, but I did not want to assume. I had been using the calculator on discounts site to keep up with teh overall diameter of the tire. I did not realize I was effectively calcualting the floatation measurement.

You mention the toyota kit to rob from for the body lift. Is there a particular Toyota body lift Kit to use? Any suv, any year? I will check with summit or would ebay or Amazon be cheaper?

Hoping the body bolts are simlar to what I have seen on 4x4wire with the older units. Hopefully nothing is seized due to age and lack of maintenance. These things have not been touched and we are are at 243000. Is it common to have issues with removal when the rigs get older?

I did see it stated that I need to pull off the running boards. Can they be reattached after? Or will I need blocks for their mounting points as well?

Sorry for all the questions. Just want to be prepared. I did download a FSM to read. I should get this guy home this weekend and be able to start cleaning and poking around. If summit has a kit and I'm motivated...

Oh and the wife.... she wants this rig jacked up. Heck her mustang does not clear speed bumps so she is used to paying attention to what's she is doing.

[redraif]

To help others who might happen upon my thread. Here is some good info related to alot of what I had questions about.

www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi/tech/minutemods/torsion_bar/

www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi/tech/valley_springs/

www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi/reviews/ome/

On 4x4 wire a Montero guy said that he used 2" coil spring spacers from a Sequoia, part # Rancho RS70081, to get two more inches of lift in the rear. He reports he trimmed a little in the middle so it sits better on the top to the body. He did have to go longer on the shocks with the spacer in. Used shocks from a Bronco 83-96.
These are for teh full size older Monteros... not sure if there is something for us (sports)

www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1253736&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1
www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1239851&an=&page=&vc=1
www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1179859&page=0&fpart=2&vc=1
www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/28207-1998-(Gen-II)-Montero-Suspension-Lift-Kit

Now to figure out if this coil insert will work on a sport... Are the sport springs and full size springs the same ID and OD?
No one there who has posted knows.

I asked here and got info on a DIY body lift:
www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1290791&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

Here is some info on 4crawler' body lift from there: (Full size Montero) They reference gen1, gen2 and a build thread of a gen2.5. Not sure if any of this will relate back to a sport, but I aim to find out!

www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1288160&an=&page=&vc=1

they reference this thread which had some great pictures from a body lift install. Enough to help me understand. (post #10)
www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/72692-Eurosonic-s-Montero-2-5Gen-Build-Thread?highlight=Eurosonic%27s+Montero+2.5Gen+Build+Thread

Here is another thread with an older full size with pics. I was told in this thread that we (sports) are based on the Mitsu truck frame not sold in North America.
www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1141520&page=0&fpart=4&vc=1

Ok thats the highlights of my finds from 4x4wire. At least it cleared my understanding of things. Now to circle around and find out if any can work with the sports.

[ES_97Sport]

Dec 15, 2014 23:06:34 GMT -5 redraif said:

...I hoped the floatation measurements were as simple as you stated, but I did not want to assume. ...

Yea, dealing with this in flotation is a lot simpler than P metric.

You mention the toyota kit to rob from for the body lift. Is there a particular Toyota body lift Kit to use? Any suv, any year? I will check with summit or would ebay or Amazon be cheaper?

Hoping the body bolts are simlar to what I have seen on 4x4wire with the older units. Hopefully nothing is seized due to age and lack of maintenance. These things have not been touched and we are are at 243000. Is it common to have issues with removal when the rigs get older?

Bolts are easy. At the worst you can find a place that sells metric bolts in grade 5 or 8. Get the correct size and go from there. We have a place here in Denver that does nothing but sell metric fasteners. BTW, do NOT buy them from Home Depot, Lowes, a random hardware store, etc. These need to be high quality bolts - not cheap junk from China.

I don't remember off the top of my head. I know the thread is still on 4x4 Wire.

Its common with ANY vehicle as it gets older. Getting the mount bolts out of my '68 'Bird after about 150K was unpleasant. A large 1/2" breaker bar will probably be necessary. Also, a tap to clean the threads before re-installing the bolts and a good, quality torque wrench. This is really a two person job.

I did see it stated that I need to pull off the running boards. Can they be reattached after? Or will I need blocks for their mounting points as well?

You need to pull the running boards/nerf bars to get to the body mounts in center of the vehicle. If I remember correctly - and it's been a LONG time since I've had to dink with the stock nerf bars - they attach only to the body. In which case you can re-install them once the body lift is done.

I would suggest leaving them off and making your second project a set of rock skids. They're not just for off road. A good solid set of skids welded on to the frame goes a long way towards protecting the body from stupid people with doors and shopping carts.

... I did download a FSM to read. I should get this guy home this weekend and be able to start cleaning and poking around. If summit has a kit and I'm motivated...

See my post on the FSM thread a few below yours. The electronic ones should be ok for this in a very general way. Get on eBay and find a complete set of original paper FSMs.

Edward

[redraif]

Dec 17, 2014 17:35:10 GMT -5 ES_97Sport said:

Bolts are easy. At the worst you can find a place that sells metric bolts in grade 5 or 8. Get the correct size and go from there. We have a place here in Denver that does nothing but sell metric fasteners. BTW, do NOT buy them from Home Depot, Lowes, a random hardware store, etc. These need to be high quality bolts - not cheap junk from China.

There is an awesome place by us called crane hardware. Its a mom and pop style store, but they are great about carrying good quality true grade 8 stuff. I plan to take everything to them to be sure I get the GOOD stuff. They have the reputation to have the stuff no one else does. I have always had good luck getting the odd ball stuff from them. In fact, they have an entire isle for metric and another for SAE as compared to HD and Lowe's pull out drawer section.

Its common with ANY vehicle as it gets older. Getting the mount bolts out of my '68 'Bird after about 150K was unpleasant. A large 1/2" breaker bar will probably be necessary. Also, a tap to clean the threads before re-installing the bolts and a good, quality torque wrench. This is really a two person job.

I told the wife she was going to get drug in to help. LOL! Good to know about the tap to clean up the threads. I have a set that has a multitude of sizes. I have a good breaker bar (2 in fact) and a good TQ wrench.

See my post on the FSM thread a few below yours. The electronic ones should be ok for this in a very general way. Get on eBay and find a complete set of original paper FSMs.

Edward

Its on the list!

Now if I could just get the truck home before I'm on Vacation (week of new years), so I can get the work going!

[redraif]

So I was looking on Summit. Thinking I could round up parts quick to work on the rig while I was on xmas & new years vacation. They are local here in GA. I live 15 minutes away. Here are some of the spacers I have found. If these won't work I will go with 4crawler.

individuals:

2inch diameter & 2 inch lift
www.summitracing.com/parts/pra-mb02

3inch diameter & 2 inch lift
www.summitracing.com/parts/pra-bb02
Will 3in wide blocks be too wide diameter wise? I know 4 crawler has the ultimate 2.5 inch wide.

Anyone know which toyota kit is best?

2 inch lift toyota 4 runner 86-89
www.summitracing.com/parts/pra-5082

or if the above is not right, here are the others from summit....
the summit results on Toyota 2in body lift
www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=body%20lift%20toyota%202%20in

Nothing lists what the toyota block diameters are? Should I get a Toyota kit or go with individual blocks and get my own hardware. Was not sure since the cost was so close that getting the kit might give me "some" useable hardware. Is the price worth the extras?

Thoughts?
This is all I have found in searching:
msport97.proboards.com/thread/5199/1-2-inch-body-lift

Or make my own with this?
uhmw
www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=30474&catid=868

www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=30475&catid=868

[redraif]

And I was playing with the idea of the Sequoia 2inch spacers, part # Rancho RS70081, in the rear. But no one knows if these will work on our springs. I hate to throw money on something that probably is the wrong size. So I have few other ideas I was toying with. I think I might go this route.... to start with.
the 2inch version: (might stay in place better due to thickness. with the fact that I'm sagging already due to age it might give 1.5 or so.) at least it can be cut/trimmed to ensure fitment
www.pepboys.com/product/details/951906/00745/performance/suspension/coil_spring_boosters_spacers

the one inch version: (don't think this would make a noticible differene and ther is more chance of them falling out cause of the thinness.)
www.pepboys.com/product/details/271374/00745/performance/suspension/coil_spring_boosters_spacers

I know there are mixed opinions on these, but if I zip tie them in and run them all the way to the top of the spring (still in the coils) I think they will stay stationary. I'm sure with 239,000 miles I'm sitting on sagging springs anyway. Then I will get some measurements when I fit them in to see what size spacer I need to ultimately locate a top spring seat style. I just can't tell with things together what size spring and what room is in the upper perch to even fit a spacer. There are a few options, if I can dial in a size and check cross compatibility. Then when the $ frees up I will do and proper 2 in suspension lift with OME springs and HD shocks. Seems this uncharted territory for a sport, so I want to at least give it a shot to see if it can work. Don't know till you try. Again this is presently not a trail rig. I'm not advocating this style of lift for a truck that could articulate so much that the spacer could come unseated when the spring gets unsprung. But it would be nice to offer folks some ideas of routes they can go.

[ES_97Sport]

Dec 24, 2014 13:38:39 GMT -5 redraif said:

Anyone know which toyota kit is best? Nothing lists what the block diameters are? Will 3in wide blocks be....

Can you please keep this to one section - say, Off Road? Posting the exact same thing in two places makes responding difficult.

Edward

[redraif]

Understood! Only reason I updated this thread was in case others found it and had the same questions. Nothing worse in a search then when you find your exact question asked and the thread dies without the answer posted. Did not want to do that to anyone else.

So to wrap things up... the lift route I went is here:
msport97.proboards.com/thread/10739/montero-sport-body-suspension-needed?page=1#scrollTo=57555

I wanted to update everyone on the code and emissions issues...
The beast finally passed emissions! Whoot! Turns out the new EGR solenoid was defective. Figured this out after the intake was cleaned! Grrrr.... But we have a tag again.

Then after 30 miles of errands we have a p0431 code again. But I got the tag first

SO now on to solve the P0431 code.

[pinstryper]

Yippie!!! I am so headed out to look under the "new project" truck to check for wires and brake lines for my 1 inch body lift.

[muddblood]

Check these guys out:

www.rocky-road.com/mitsubishi-montero-lift-kit.html

They have A LOT of options for the body lift. I'll get mine from them once money becomes available.

I believe they also have the OME lift kits as well.

[2003LimitedAWD]

Aug 4, 2018 22:24:14 GMT -5 muddblood said:

Check these guys out:

www.rocky-road.com/mitsubishi-montero-lift-kit.html

They have A LOT of options for the body lift. I'll get mine from them once money becomes available.

I believe they also have the OME lift kits as well.

Thanks for posting that link, been looking for lift kits and not having much luck. Guess there's just not a lot of aftermarket support for a vehicle that's no longer sold in the US.  That's not a bad price at all for the complete kit and it appears to be well-made.  I want to raise mine up as well so I can throw some larger tires on it.