... So wanted to check back in on this issue....
This is where the rig runs temp wise when we are on the move or at idle in moderate temps...on the gauge the rig normal sits with the needle dead center
Ok. On my two '97s, my '03 and my friends '98, that's the 'normal' position. That's 193/4ish to about 198/199.
Where you have your key is about 212-214. Perfectly horizontal is about 202/203.
Seen this behavior. Zero air flow other than what the fan is pulling and the A/C fan is pushing. Typical causes are missing/broken engine cooling fan shroud and/or missing bottom piece, dead/dieing engine cooling fan clutch, dead A/C fan, blocked air flow from front (i.e. fog lights, etc), clogged fins in the condenser and/or radiator and the last BIG one - improper coolant ratio (too much coolant or too little). Another wive's tale - straight water DOES NOT work better than anti-freeze. :rolleyes:
Assuming that everything above is in perfect working order/correct, what you're seeing is 'normal'. At least as far as I can tell normal.
And, that's why I say 'normal'. That is generally the exact behavior I've seen. Its hard to cool an engine and run A/C efficiently when you're stuck in traffic in 95-100 degree temps. Heat radiating off the road will be higher than ambient temperatures and you have a zillion vehicles surrounding you heating up the air you're trying to pull through the condenser/radiator to cool your engine. On top of that you have no air flow other than what the fans pull/push. Adding in high humidity doesn't help, either.
That said, full open on the thermostat is 212. I'm going to make the assumption that Mitsu isn't any different when saying this, but to the best of my knowledge NO manufacturer has produced an engine that was 'over heating' before the thermostat was fully open. So, unless it starts pushing into the high teens I wouldn't panic. I wouldn't be comfortable, but I wouldn't panic either.
I would start worrying if you were doing 55 on the highway and having cooling problems. If it just gets up to the point where the thermostat is full open and stops ... that's just normal behavior for an engine.
First, no, a clutch fan DOES NOT fix the water crossing problem. THAT is an old wive's tale. In fact, not only do you have to worry about the radiator, you also have to worry about damaging the fan/clutch. So, that's right out.
Unless you install an electric fan(s) setup that exceeds what the mechanical engine fan pulls at idle, it won't make any difference. In fact, if its less then you'll go backwards.
If -
IF - you only have problems like you described above and NO issues with temps under normal driving conditions, then most likely the CORRECT electric fan(s) set up will fix your issue. One nice thing about OEM electric fan configurations is they typically pull more air at idle than mechanical fans so they work better in traffic.
Now the not so good part about electric fans - at idle, your stock alternator puts out spit. In your case, that's where you'll be pulling the most amperage so you're not going to have the option of whether or not to install an HO alternator. Any fan(s) worth installing will be in the 40-80 amp range (constant).
I can't speak for the single fan setup, but I can pretty much guarantee that the Ford Contour dual fans will take care of your problem in traffic. Both those fans on full pull more at idle than the stock fan by a good margin.
BTW, I checked the new Ford motors I installed before we left week before last. Inrush is between 25-30 amps and constant is mid 20s at full on. The original set of fan motors were not from Ford and pulled less amps and also pulled less air.
Yes. If you do not have a full shroud you're going to have idle cooling issues. That's where you need the mechanical fan the most. After you're moving air is forced through the front grill, through the condenser and radiator. Air will take the path of least resistance. If that happens to be around the radiator rather than through then that's what will happen.
From a strictly bolt in standpoint, I think the Contour setup is the easiest. The shroud is almost exactly the same size as the radiator. +/- 1" or less. A handfull of nyloc nuts, bolts, and washers, 20" or so of 1"x1/8" aluminum strap from the hardware store, 8' of weather striping from whatever shop sells U formed weatherstripping for car restorations and then the wiring. The Ford motor plugs and pigtails are available new on line. OR, you can head down to your local pick-a-part and get all your wiring off a Contour - which is what I did. I recommend buying the fans/shroud new, though. I'm not to comfy having a set of fans with 180K miles on them on my truck.
The only 'modification' you need to do can be done with a hacksaw blade - snip off the stock thermostat to clear the radiator return and the side mount tabs. That'll take you 10 minutes. The only tools you need are basic wrenches, a hand drill and a hacksaw. For the wiring you'll need a good soldering iron and shrink wrap do attach the Ford plugs to whatever harness you get/make.
Yes. You don't need one big fan running all the time. Most of the time I only run one Contour fan and then only at 60%. Less amperage draw, less gas burned, better mileage. If one big fan goes, you are well and truly screwed. Not a big deal maybe if you're in town all the time, but if you frequent the back side of nowhere and you're off road .... I can drive sometimes with no fans depending on conditions, but never off road. I can drive most of the time with one fan even off road in Moab in 90+ temps. With one fan I'm guaranteed that at the very bare bottom minimum, I can limp home. SO, if I loose a fan - its happened - not only can I keep going, I probably won't even be limping. If its necessary to run a fan on the highway, one fan running is going to restrict air flow more than one Contour fan running and one stopped.
Wiring is as complicated or simple as you want it to be. The best single fan is a two stage - which is basically wired like you'd wire the Contour dual fans. Ideally you want Low (or fan 1) to kick on at x degrees. Then at y degrees, you'd want it to switch to Hi (turn on fan 2).
The simplest solution for the Contour fans - two temp sensors wired to two 30A relays. One 185/190 for the primary fan and one 200/205 for the secondary. This is dirt simple and dirt cheap. Which is about all that recommends it. No on/off, no full on @ any temp, no off when the vehicle is turned off. But, its dirt cheap and dirt simple.
Pirate 4x4 has bunches of wiring diagrams on fan cooling systems that integrates the expected features like I mentioned. If you can follow directions and use a soldering iron, then they're easy to wire up yourself. KIM, you're looking at $100 in wiring, relays, switches, solder, etc. - its still not free.
The better solution is to get two PWM controllers - one for each fan - and set each to the temps above (to start). Much more expensive and much more complicated but it'll also work much better and much more like you'd expect an OEM system to work.
Then there's the single fan kits like you find on eBay for $30-40. You will get what you pay for, so .... Just make absolutely sure that no matter WHAT they claim, the wiring can actually support the amperage you'll be pulling. Anyway, this is similar to the first, only pre-done.
Mmmmm. You'll have to make the fan fit the shroud and the shroud fit the radiator. Not saying it can't be done, but you can't leave any gaps or holes. The fan needs to sit inside the shroud with the same clearance as it had from the factory for that to work well.
Nope.
I'm in the beginning stages of transplanting a '97 AW4 in a '99. I already have a page of stuff I didn't know I'd need and all I did was pick up the transmission and torque converter.
Edward