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Post by ES_97Sport on Aug 13, 2015 18:13:01 GMT -5
Sigh, I just had my compressor, drier, condenser and one of the tubes replaced and still no AC. My mechanic is giving up on it and just charging for parts. He said the evaporator is testing fine but I have to wonder after reading this thread again. THIS is why I told my employee that bought my Eclipse a couple weeks ago that if he wanted the A/C working to take it to the dealership. Otherwise, he was on his own. This is one of those things that is nowhere near worth my time beating my head up against. Better off to let a professional do the work and get it right the first time. BTW, some buddy of his quoted him about $800 to fix the A/C - when he started rattling off what the guy quoted him, I already knew he wasn't going to be able to do it right. Sigh. Sorry to hear it, though. This stuff drives you nuts sometimes. Edward
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Post by dclambertt on Aug 13, 2015 18:35:54 GMT -5
Yup, and that's why I took it to a guy who actually used to work for a Mitsu dealership. And he's a good mechanic and friend, but he's stumped on this one.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Aug 13, 2015 20:03:42 GMT -5
Yup, and that's why I took it to a guy who actually used to work for a Mitsu dealership. And he's a good mechanic and friend, but he's stumped on this one. What's it doing now? Edward
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Post by dclambertt on Aug 14, 2015 11:05:03 GMT -5
Evidently it's still blowing ambient temp air, just a lot quieter. We started with the compressor and drier, then added the condenser, then one of the system pipes that was suspect, but still no cooling. The only things left are the evaporator and the expansion valve, which I was told seemed to be working okay.
Dan
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Post by ES_97Sport on Aug 14, 2015 13:09:16 GMT -5
Evidently it's still blowing ambient temp air, just a lot quieter. We started with the compressor and drier, then added the condenser, then one of the system pipes that was suspect, but still no cooling. The only things left are the evaporator and the expansion valve, which I was told seemed to be working okay. Dan Dang! I don't know how to tell if the evaporator isn't. Are the pressures still within spec? Wish I could be more help. Fixing HVAC really isn't my thing. Edward
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Post by dclambertt on Aug 14, 2015 17:11:09 GMT -5
No worries Ed, NO ONE seems to have a good handle on it I'm finding. Trying to locate a specialist in my area to take over the project has been impossible.
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Post by jkdv8 on Aug 15, 2015 16:57:28 GMT -5
Have you checked the climate controls. Maybe something isn't communicating. The light flashing by any chance.
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Post by 6500rpm on Aug 16, 2015 20:48:50 GMT -5
Some quick info can go a long way, I've been a new car/fleet tech for 30 years. When you turn it on max air high blower speed w/ engine @2000 rpm. A) does the compressor engage and when it does, does the electric cooling fan on the condenser turn on. If both function when turned on, what are your high and low side pressures? I'd suspect that the high side is very high and the low side is very low (say 300+ high and less than 20 on the low) but without actual readings that doesn't mean anything. One thing you can do is a simple hand test on the high and low side lines shortly after start up before they start gaining heat in the engine bay. Typically as you run your hand along the high side line after the condenser it's going to be very warm to hot, as it passes through the expansion valve it changes from a high pressure liquid to a low pressure gas (that's where your cooling takes place). If it's hot up to the expansion valve, and hot/warm on the outlet side that suckers clogged. The more info you can provide, the more we can help.
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Post by dclambertt on Aug 17, 2015 10:41:52 GMT -5
Thanks guys, appreciate your comments.
JK the controls were working fine before the new installations, and still appear to be working. No flashing lights etc.
65, the compressor looks like it's engaging although I'm going to have to refresh my memory on how to tell. The entire front end of the compressor is rotating with the drive belt so I assume it's engaged, but the fan doesn't come on now and it used to.
Will try your technique of touching the high and low pressure lines near the evaporator. Thanks again gents.
Dan
UPDATE: Just spoke with the technician.. they evacuated the system after determining they weren't getting any cool air, so that would explain a few things. I guess that would prevent the fan from working?
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Post by ES_97Sport on Aug 17, 2015 15:45:37 GMT -5
... The entire front end of the compressor is rotating with the drive belt so I assume it's engaged, but the fan doesn't come on now and it used to. The front end of the compressor is the compressor clutch assembly. The clutch is an electro-magnetic assembly. It 'free wheels' until power is applied. When power is applied it locks up the clutch assembly which then turns the compressor shaft. So, technically, you don't apply power the compressor 'to turn it on'. You apply power to the clutch to engage the compressor. The compressor is a mechanical pump that doesn't require electricity to function. I STILL don't for sure know what the criteria for the A/C fan is. FSMs are a little convoluted where that's concerned. I THINK on/off is actually controlled based on A/C pressure, not temperature like a engine cooling fan(s) with a thermostat. Interestingly, this is based on some info I ran across in the Spal PWM docs while I was re-programming my engine cooling fans this weekend. I may be totally wrong but it kinda makes sense. SO, if that's the way the fan on/off works, you're pressure was probably way off - which probably kept the fan from working. Edward
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Post by dclambertt on Aug 17, 2015 17:33:48 GMT -5
Thanks Edward. Think I'll try jumping the fan to the battery to verify it runs. Can't do 6500's hand test without refrigerant in the system so not sure where to go from there short of pulling the evaporator and expansion valve out.
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Post by jkdv8 on Aug 18, 2015 20:17:01 GMT -5
Hope you get it man. Was it leaking. Why would they evac it.
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Post by dclambertt on Aug 19, 2015 15:00:56 GMT -5
Hope you get it man. Was it leaking. Why would they evac it. Thanks. No leaks. I guess the subcontractor assumed the next step would be to go after the evap. and valve, so removed the freon.
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Post by jkdv8 on Aug 20, 2015 20:44:39 GMT -5
Yea that makes sense.
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Post by dclambertt on Aug 24, 2015 14:10:24 GMT -5
I've done some exploratory work pulling the glove box, support bracket and under cover to see how difficult removing the evaporator will be. Dang thing is sandwiched between the heater core and blower motor, so I'll prolly have to remove the blower first.
Anyone else removed the evaporator before?
UPDATE:
Found a great pictorial instruction slide show right here on MSPORT97... exactly what I needed to finish this futile exercise!
s156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/troutdog311/Expansion%20Valve/?action=view¤t=100_3001.jpg
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