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Post by bdmontero on Oct 5, 2015 8:38:20 GMT -5
Well after speaking with a dozen or so shops and either getting the shaft or having no faith in them I've decided on the lift for IFS for the time being. I have no desire to EVER rock crawl it. All we have here is mud and sand so I guess I'm building a desert runner.;D Wife would rather me do that now than have a car down for a year. At least with the IFS lift I can buy axles and slowly get all the parts together. Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by bdmontero on Oct 5, 2015 8:43:12 GMT -5
Here is the lift. 7" lift. Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards Attachments:
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Post by ES_97Sport on Oct 5, 2015 18:32:55 GMT -5
... I have no desire to EVER rock crawl it. ... Oh, now, what's this?!?!?? Have you no sense of adventure??!?? That is a wise choice. It takes a lot longer to get parts together than everyone thinks. Dynatrack is typically 3 months for one or a pair of axles. Big stuff takes a while. BTW, maybe this is a stupid question, but where's the drive shaft in that image? And the coils? Shocks? Is that supposed to be an all inclusive lift, or just the basic stuff - you supply the rest? Edward
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Post by ES_97Sport on Oct 5, 2015 18:49:13 GMT -5
... I saw a set in a test done on youtube... www.youtube.com/watch?v=95m6VHEWvFkwas it the Mantec bridging ladders? They seems awesome for bridging over cracks from washouts likes you were talking about before. The only ones worth a darn out of that entire video are the Mantech Bridging Ladders. And the ones they were showing are too short. Those look like 3-4'. Too short to be useful. I can drive across stuff like this ... Its the washouts. Soft along the edges so you need something longer. You can't just slap a 4 foot rail on a 2' crevasse, because the sides will collapse and then you're done. The ones I remember were longer and looked a little different and they were definitely longer. I'll keep looking. I notice that all their tests were with very lite vehicles, too. I'm pretty sure the Maxtracs won't handle the weight of my vehicle and I was told you're not supposed to bridge with them. Edward
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Post by ES_97Sport on Oct 5, 2015 19:14:05 GMT -5
... And that's where things get even dumber... tow and recovery are also used synonymously too... again why it's so confusing researching. Again why it's making my head spin. Yep. I know what you mean. It was a lot easier 10-15 years ago. There's a lot of crappy Indiaese advertising out there now. Anything with a hook is NOT a snatch strap. That's a tow 'rope'. At least this doesn't change. I haven't had time to look it up but I seem to remember USDOT requires tow ropes to have hooks - you can't use a tow rope with loops to tow with on a public road. One #2 in a 20' length. If you have nothing else to spend your money on. But that's too long for use on a public road. In my experience its also going to be borderline useless. Again. Too long. I've never used #5. I have the generic yellow ones our hardware store used to sell. Don't know who made them anymore. I don't think you want to ask. 2" straps should be plenty. 3" is getting kinda crazy but they'll work fine. Just heavier. The tree savers shouldn't be less than 3" x 6'. I prefer the 4". There is a different reason for width here. The wider the strap, the more area the force is distributed across, so the less damage possible to the tree. Also, a wider strap usually gets more traction on a rock than a skinny strap. Edward
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Post by bdmontero on Oct 5, 2015 19:32:21 GMT -5
The lift works off of drop brackets and new mounts. I will double check with the company about driveshafts.;D
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Post by ES_97Sport on Oct 6, 2015 15:04:11 GMT -5
BTW, maybe this is a stupid question, but where's the drive shaft in that image? And the coils? Shocks? Is that supposed to be an all inclusive lift, or just the basic stuff - you supply the rest? The lift works off of drop brackets and new mounts. I will double check with the company about driveshafts.;D Yep, I'm familiar with the type of lift. Usually what happens is the extended brackets have the affect of shifting the chassis up 7". Kinda like a body lift for your frame. This has the affect of moving the transfer case/transmission/engine up 7" along with the rest of the frame/body. Both drive shafts have the same problem but its a bigger issue with the front drive shaft. The front drive shaft is a fixed length assembly and its pretty much straight in line with the t-case and differential. Increasing the vertical height of the t-case output while maintaining the stock height of the input on the differential requires a longer drive shaft. Its been a long while since I've fiddled with the CV joint on the stock front drive shafts but I'm fairly sure there isn't enough angle available in the stock joint. So, instead of this ... --o o----o O You get this ... --o o\ \o O I use a drive shaft company here in Denver that does most of the drive shafts for the south end of town - racing, off road, etc. What I DO remember was talking to them about the front drive shaft Mitsu CV. There was very little confidence that the joint would take much abuse if it were used at an angle. That is a REALLY small joint. In my case, even if it had enough angle which it didn't, they flat refused to build a drive shaft with that joint even though at that time I was on stock gearing. What I know now, based on experience, is that it won't last long with big tires and deeper gearing in the t-case. Going to 2.88 or 3:1 in the t-case multiplies the torque coming out of the t-case. While 1.90:1 to 2.88 or 3 doesn't sound like much, it is a significant increase. You have the same problem in the back as far as length goes. 7" is just enough to require a longer drive shaft. You don't want to decrease the spline contact in the t-case output yoke at all for ANY reason. The yoke metal is really soft; if you decrease contact by pulling it out 1" you would end up with - at the least - increased wear and the yoke throat expanding. At worst you'd have a yoke stress crack and break inside the t-case. Anyway, I'm just curious. The rear drive shaft is no big deal. Just have a longer drive shaft made. The front one could be extended, too, without any difficulty. That front CV joint, though, that makes me a little nervous. 7" doesn't sound like much, but a few degrees +/- from straight makes a big difference in strength. I don't know where it is on Pirate anymore, but there was a thing that described and gave numbers for strength loss at given angles for CV joints and u-joints. CVs are stronger at an angle, but u-joints are WAY stronger in line. So, u-joint strength decreases dramatically the higher the angle is. I presume they rotate the front housing. So, like mine, u-joint on the differential, CV on the t-case side. In that scenario, if you drew a straight line through the pinion, u-joint and drive shaft, everything would be straight. The angle happens at the CV at the t-case. I'd have to do the math to know for sure, but maybe it would be possible to do a u-joint on both ends, but in that case you wouldn't rotate the differential housing. If you drew a straight line through both the output shaft on the t-case, yoke and joint, AND another straight line through the pinion, yoke and joint, you'd have two parallel lines separated by 7". I don't remember what the distance is between the t-case yoke and differential yoke. Its not much, I know that. I had something like a 18" drive shaft when I was running the Mitsu t-case - wasn't much different in length than the stock drive shaft. That short of a shaft makes angle changes dramatic with relatively small increases in off set. Let me know what you find out. It'll be interesting if they tell you you can just use the stock shafts. Edward
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Post by bdmontero on Oct 6, 2015 15:33:55 GMT -5
Ya I have no desire to bind up the CV axles. I do have aisin hubs but that won't help in 4wd. I asked and am waiting a response before you posted that;D Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by ES_97Sport on Oct 6, 2015 16:58:15 GMT -5
Ya I have no desire to bind up the CV axles. I do have aisin hubs but that won't help in 4wd. I asked and am waiting a response before you posted that. Its not the CV joints in the axles. That type of lift will maintain the factory half-shaft angles so your CVs will be plenty happy. If you maintain the stock almost horizontal angle of the half shafts you could run 35"s without a whole lot of worry. You'd still go through CVs every couple years, but they'd be reasonably strong. Ish. The CV I'm talking about is on the front drive shaft. That's the joint that's used on the t-case end of the drive shaft. Edward
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Post by bdmontero on Oct 6, 2015 20:42:27 GMT -5
I am speaking with the tech that installs them and he told me they come with an adapter on that joint. He is supposed to send me a picture. Honestly I don't want to put 35's on it but if it looks retarded with 33's I will. I also am concerned with gearing. I can easily swap to 4.90 but that's where the fun ends. I do wheel it but here all we have is literally water sand and mud. The biggest rock I've seen is around Arbuckle area and that is too far away for me to wheel currently.
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Post by jkdv8 on Oct 6, 2015 22:10:35 GMT -5
That kit is intriguing. So is that for the 97-99 only.
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Post by bdmontero on Oct 6, 2015 22:15:03 GMT -5
They got several different lifts for different years. Whether it's a two piece driveshaft or one piece. I have a one piece so that makes it way easier. ;D
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Post by jkdv8 on Oct 6, 2015 22:44:25 GMT -5
Hmm. That's cool. You have a link to their site.
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Post by bdmontero on Oct 6, 2015 23:12:09 GMT -5
BTV.com
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Post by bdmontero on Oct 7, 2015 8:11:31 GMT -5
Okay he is saying the kit comes with an adapter for the front. So it will be at stock angle after the lift. Total with air freight is 2000.00 USD
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