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Post by ES_97Sport on Dec 6, 2015 15:53:26 GMT -5
I can't picture those faces ?. Thanks for the update I will stop there again some time next week. Chris and Jamie are off on Mondays. Chris is at the service desk furthest west. Edward
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Post by jar on Dec 29, 2015 13:25:37 GMT -5
I have an appointment at the dealership to diagnose my wobbly 4WD shifter. Doing more research it could be some sort of spring or the plastic bushing which I am more inclined to be the culprit. There is some people, that were able to replace that plastic bushing successfully. They are charging $126 to diagnose and if that is the case whole new shifter will be purchase for $200+. Any suggestions/ advice since all comments are from few years back. Thanks! RD
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Post by ES_97Sport on Dec 29, 2015 14:01:12 GMT -5
I have an appointment at the dealership to diagnose my wobbly 4WD shifter. Doing more research it could be some sort of spring or the plastic bushing which I am more inclined to be the culprit. There is some people, that were able to replace that plastic bushing successfully. They are charging $126 to diagnose and if that is the case whole new shifter will be purchase for $200+. Any suggestions/ advice since all comments are from few years back. Thanks! RD Do it yourself. Its REALLY easy to figure out if its the shifter. All you have to do is remove the console, the rubber boot on the tunnel and the three bolts that hold the shifter to the transfer case. One #3 Phillips screw driver and a cheap metric 3/8" socket set from Autozone is all you need. Remove the the screws that hold the console down. There are four on the Gen 1. Two are in the arm rest compartment and two are in plain sight in the recess under the e-brake handle. I haven't looked for the two forward ones on the Gen 2, but they shouldn't be hard to find. Remove the rear console section. Its not hard to giggle it out of there. Unplug the heated seat switches if you have them. Toss it in the back seat. Remove the two screws on either side of the forward console section on either side under the dash. Again, they're in plain sight. Remove the rear two screws behind the shifter - again, in plain sight. Remove the transfer case shifter handle. It just unscrews. There are a total of 8 screws on the Gen 1 to remove the entire console. Takes me about 10 minutes. I believe there are the same number on the Gen 2. Remove the bolts that hold the t-case shifter boot to the tunnel. Don't try to remove the boot from the handle. Just leave it as it is. Move the boot around to expose the shifter and the top of the t-case and remove the 3-4 bolts that hold the shifter on. Make sure you keep track of what bolt came out of what hole when you remove the shifter bolts on the t-case. I don't know if those are different lengths but SOME are and they need to go back into the same holes. At this point the entire shifter and boot will just lift out. If the ball is broke, you'll be able to tell. Pick out any pieces you can see in the t-case if there is any. A long needle nose pliers helps. If the ball is intact check for any cracking, chips, etc. If you see ANY hair line crack(s), replace it now or you'll be back at this in the near future. There is paper gasket that sits between the shifter and the t-case. You will need one. Also, Mitsu uses the grey RTV - you need a tube of that, too. Clean the surface of the t-case, and shifter mount plate. Re-install the shifter with the gasket WITHOUT any RTV!!!!! At this point you just want to make sure you're installing the shifter correctly! Snug the bolts down, put the transmission shifter in neutral 'N' and make sure it shifts correctly between 2HI, 4HI and 4LO. Once you're confident you can install the shifter correctly, put a thin film of RTV on both sides of the gasket, put the gasket on the shifter and re-install the shifter. Snug the bolts down and confirm it shifts correctly. If its ok, torque the bolts to the FSM specs. Reverse the console removal to re-install everything. DO NOT over tighten the Phillips screws!!!! They just need to be snug, not tight. If get carried away you'll strip the sheet metal they're screwed into. Now - IF - the ball is intact and you're sure you've installed the shifter correctly and it STILL doesn't shifter correctly, take it to the dealership - BEFORE - re-installing the entire console. Just re-install the shifter, bolt the tunnel boot back in place and take it in. If they don't have to spend an hour taking the console out and putting it back that'll help with the cost. Edward
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Post by jar on Jan 2, 2016 13:49:28 GMT -5
Update, in fact the bushing was broken. $525. Parts and labor. They have to order the part from CA. I am thinking on just doing it through dealer. Where can I get the piece? Is that one on line coming from Australia from EBay? And then people talk about needing some sort of press to push the piece in place? At the end probably will be a wash after all. ?
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Post by pinstryper on Jan 2, 2016 17:40:35 GMT -5
525? For the 4wd shifter? We need to talk. Tell me EXACTLY what you need. year, auto?
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Post by jar on Jan 2, 2016 21:12:54 GMT -5
Pinstryper, what broke is the fulcrum(round reddish bushing$ that holds the shifter centered. That piece itself is the whole assembly(4wd shifter) for $200+, unless I buy the bushing from eBay. Then labor is like another 245.00
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Post by pinstryper on Jan 2, 2016 23:10:03 GMT -5
if you can follow Edwards guide I can get you the shifter assembly from LKQ for probably under $150 shipped. I need to know what year and what transmission.
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Post by jar on Jan 8, 2016 21:35:14 GMT -5
Pinstryper, thanks for your offer, I wil keep it in mind. I think I will order the bushing from eBay and go that route with Ed's instructions.
Ed, I ran into Josh Huss he used to work for High Country. He says hi. He now works for RSC I believed that is the name of 4wheel shop in Lakewood. He sounds very knowledgable so I might use him. Just to make sure I order the right piece, I have a 2003 Montero Sport 3.5 AWD. What generation is my truck?
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jan 11, 2016 16:20:51 GMT -5
... Ed, I ran into Josh Huss he used to work for High Country. He says hi. He now works for RSC I believed that is the name of 4wheel shop in Lakewood. He sounds very knowledgable so I might use him. Just to make sure I order the right piece, I have a 2003 Montero Sport 3.5 AWD. What generation is my truck? Yep, I talked to Jason a couple weeks ago. I've known Jason for a LOT of years. He had just started at HC when they did the SAS on my Sport. The 2000-2004 is the Gen 2. 1997-1999 is Gen 1. Edward
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Post by jar on Jan 28, 2016 21:06:39 GMT -5
Received my fulcrum for the shifter. It flexes a little. I thought it was like hard plastic but it is kind of rubbery.
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Post by dirk on Jan 28, 2016 21:30:50 GMT -5
When the hard red ones were new they probably had a little flexibility also lol
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Post by dclambertt on Jan 29, 2016 12:59:07 GMT -5
Received my fulcrum for the shifter. It flexes a little. I thought it was like hard plastic but it is kind of rubbery. Jar, can you share your link to the eBay page for that bushing?
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jan 29, 2016 18:11:05 GMT -5
When the hard red ones were new they probably had a little flexibility also lol No, the new ones that look like Bakelite are hard. Edward
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jan 29, 2016 18:15:11 GMT -5
View AttachmentReceived my fulcrum for the shifter. It flexes a little. I thought it was like hard plastic but it is kind of rubbery. That might be a good thing. I know the Toy replacement is softer than the original and I seem to remember a couple discussions years ago about going from the hard plastic to a softer nylon to significantly extend the lifespan. On the other hand, if the bushing is TOO soft it'll cause problems positively engaging the gears. Based on my poking around in the Mitsu t-case I wouldn't think that would be a problem there. It most certainly would be with a manual transmission. Edward
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Post by jar on Jan 29, 2016 23:18:28 GMT -5
Here is their email info@partslunacy.com.au If you go to eBay under the search tab just type "Montero Sport fulcrum" this Lunacy parts will come up. I was thinking on finding a 3D shop to make me a copy but can not find one and it will depends how much they will charge. I pay US$51.00 total. Probably it will be a wash between ordering another one or making one. Parts are getting scarce for this truck. The part needs to be lubed, they recommend to use lithium grease. Something plastic/rubber friendly. By the way somebody have the part number for the needed gasket for this job? Thanks!
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