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Post by ES_97Sport on Sept 2, 2016 14:19:32 GMT -5
ATTN Gen 2 Sport owners: Those of you lifting Gen 2 Sports will want to take a look at this. This is ONLY applicable to the coil sprung Sports. Leaf sprung Sports do not use a track (panhard) bar. 4x4Wire - Adjustable panhard rodWhat this does: On a coil sprung axle, a panhard (track) bar is used to locate the axle left to right and keep the axle aligned under the vehicle. When a suspension lift - not a body lift - is done on a vehicle, the bar must be adjusted to accommodate the length of the lift. Using the image above, if the vehicle is lifted without an adjustable track bar, the lift will pull the axle to the right. The axle will no longer be centered under the vehicle. Because the axle is being pulled out of center, it places a lot of stress on the arms, track bar, bushings and brackets eventually resulting in something breaking. The OEM panhard or track bar is not adjustable, which is why a part like this is necessary. Edward
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Post by dirk on Sept 2, 2016 18:17:20 GMT -5
That's great info, I was literally just under my car, looking at that. I changed my transfer case, and both differential fluids today, and oil.(I know only 30K miles, and 3 years on synthetc is premature, but didnt know if it had been done at all in the first 250K mile. So first change was more of a 2 year flush) While I was under there I was noticing how my panhandle rod was not parallel to the ground and looked odd. But thinking back I was trying to figure out if it was always like that or if it was something that changed while I had the vehicle. Well that answered my question. Weird of all the things I was questioning today, that was what you posted.
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Post by toasty on Sept 2, 2016 20:57:16 GMT -5
Thank's Edward! Can't believe it took me this long to register on a Sport forum, possibly since I only owned a sport for about 6 months and never modified it.
Anyway, the above pretty much covers it.
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Post by dirk on Sept 2, 2016 21:49:02 GMT -5
A couple of quick questions on those. My vehicle has the 2" (roughly) OME suspension, and if the panhard rod was about 30"s to start (guessing that, haven't actually measured it) and if my math is correct. To keep everything inline I would need a panhard rod now 30.067"s if that is correct would the 1/15th of an inch really throw things off that much? I noticed in that thread the pictured one looks a tad shorter than the stock one, so it can extend 2.5"s and that should make it longer than stock, correct?
Don't get me wrong, I am quite interested in these. I am in the middle of lengthening rear sway bar links, and a bunch of other things to make sure the vehicle is set right and runs straight as an arrow. I am attempting to get another 10 to 15 years out of this ride and I live in an area known to turn a brand new car into a rust bucket in under 5 years. SO I am one of the 1/15" matters guys. I am just trying to figure out how important it is on my todo list verse say putting on my rock sliders first and it can wait a year? In upstate NY trying to get anything custom is near impossible.
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Post by toasty on Sept 3, 2016 11:30:19 GMT -5
Two things, OME lifts tend to be shorter than advertised. My friend bought one they said would be somewhere around 1" and by the time it settled in it was more like .5"
Not a whole lot of adjustment is needed to get back to center, the gain is precision. Most people don't think about the rear alignment because it's not in your hands like the front is. I've seen so far between .25" and .5" of adjustment needed for lifts +/- 2" lift. It makes a difference, as with any alignment part. I like my suspension and alignment tight.
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Post by pinstryper on Sept 3, 2016 12:11:55 GMT -5
OME lifts are overrated, shocks are not bad though overpriced.
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Post by dirk on Sept 3, 2016 14:03:52 GMT -5
So from pictures it looks like the newer one is shorter, but has 2.5 inches of adjustment. So in the end I could adjust it longer than the stock one and get the adjustment needed? Sorry for dumb questions I've only started off road in lightly and why I went with simple and the other 1/4 of a century driving was in 2 door sports cars. So lifting verse lowering etc is new. Still, and add to that I am. Computer tech and only started doing mechanical stuff in the last 3 years of owning the MS.
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Post by toasty on Sept 3, 2016 14:59:18 GMT -5
No dumb questions, All the way collapsed is really close to stock length. I made these with stock trucks in mind plus room to grow lets say you decide to go SAS someday and big lift. Covers all.
I also made some really cool shock towers and we tested them on the Sierra Nevada Challenge this year with great results. I will be getting Bilsteins for all 4 corners too! huge improvement on and offroad over OME and KYB. IncorporatedX and i will be making more and more parts and upgrades for these fine machines very soon. This is just to get started, we are tooling up to support the Mitsubishi community. We both noticed that the aftermarket replacement parts have suddenly gotten very low quality (especially our weak link the idler arms) we aim to keep these trucks on the road as long as possible and as good or better than originally designed.
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Post by toasty on Sept 3, 2016 15:00:09 GMT -5
bilstein 5100's the real deal, not those yellow things.
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Post by pinstryper on Sept 3, 2016 15:15:38 GMT -5
bilstein 5100's the real deal, not those yellow things. For sports? Are they not designed for coil overs?
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Post by toasty on Sept 3, 2016 16:17:44 GMT -5
5100's are just very good shocks. Floating piston so they never froth offroad, very smooth performance at a reasonable price.
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Post by pinstryper on Sept 3, 2016 20:01:35 GMT -5
Where did you find 5100 for the Montero Sports though? The 4600's are another 360psi unit like the KYB's. And seems that's what they list for sports, unless your using a toyota unit.
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Post by toasty on Sept 5, 2016 9:45:52 GMT -5
A local friend and I spec'd them out, we can as a community expand the current Montero offering of shocks to fill the gap for performance shocks. Right now we have the bottom rung (Gabriel, Monroe etc.) Good shocks (OME, KYB etc.) Then straight to racing shocks (King, Radflo). What i really want is 7100's and I'll probably put some on my '99 here soon. These Mitsus really like shocks with floating pistons and lots of oil. I'm no shock expert but i have tried a ton of different shocks.
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Post by toasty on Sept 5, 2016 9:53:55 GMT -5
Where did you find 5100 for the Montero Sports though? The 4600's are another 360psi unit like the KYB's. And seems that's what they list for sports, unless your using a toyota unit. The only thing keeping the Mitsu trucks from having more shock options is the rear towers. I made new ones to accept a wider range of shocks. The 4600's are pretty OK, they kind of seem like the 5100 except they don't last very long so maybe they're the Chinese versions or maybe because my experience with them is with the yellow ones that come on Toyotas and Nissans. So they could be different when you buy them non application.
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Post by pinstryper on Sept 5, 2016 12:31:13 GMT -5
So we have to start looking at length collapsed and extended? The guys in Oz seem to be using a lot of Toyota shocks
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