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Post by dannytuned on Feb 7, 2007 18:46:27 GMT -5
my auto hubs failed at 75k. that's the reason i got the other ones. i pulled needle bearings out of it that looked like pancakes
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Post by CerOf on Feb 7, 2007 21:12:54 GMT -5
Trust me, I've wheeled plenty hard, in my Sport but my main experience is with Jeeps.
I see ujoints break long before the hubs themselves.
I wonder, for those of you that posted you have broken them, have you ever had them serviced or regreased?
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Post by dannytuned on Feb 8, 2007 16:21:45 GMT -5
i never touched mine, it looked like water got past the seal, i found alot of rust in there with the mangled parts. yes, shame on me for neglecting to regrease them especially after going through plenty of deep water. totally my fault, but i would've bought the man. hubs even if the auto's didn't break.
i have also been thinking of someday getting a cable to engage the fr. diff manually, not sure of any advantage to doing that besides reliabilty.
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Post by CerOf on Feb 9, 2007 23:31:52 GMT -5
Like the 4x4 posi-lok they sell for the Jee XJ and YJ for the vacuum disconnect?
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Post by skidplate98 on Feb 13, 2007 1:46:52 GMT -5
The reason to have manual locking hubs is not if you brake a hub. But rather if you brake something else up front and you need to unlock the hubs and still be in 4L. If you brake something up front and you can't manually unlock your hubs your dead in the water. Skid I've never heard of anyone having an auto hub fail that a manual hub wouldn't have failed in the same condition. Usually the u-joint or cv joint will fail first or a bearing or your diff itself will give up the ghost. I've logged some pretty intense miles in the dirt and never seen one fail. Seen several people spin a drive shaft and destroy the yoke, but never the hub itself. Lots of u-joints and a few CV joints, but never the hub. (aside from one that is just plain old or abused) |
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Post by drdude on Feb 13, 2007 13:46:53 GMT -5
The reason to have manual locking hubs is not if you brake a hub. But rather if you brake something else up front and you need to unlock the hubs and still be in 4L. If you brake something up front and you can't manually unlock your hubs your dead in the water. Skid Very good point....might be enough to get me thinking about it. We had a Grand Cherokee on our Poison Spider run break a gear in his front end and that would have made it easier for him to get out. I also posted the question on an off-road site (Rocky Mountain Extreme) and the replies can be summerized as 1) manual hubs are stronger and more simple 2) only people who reported breaks are early-90s GM products. |
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Post by bahnstoermer on Jul 12, 2009 9:44:24 GMT -5
superwinch p/n 400543 i ordered mine from www.summitracing.com around $85 i think. i have not installed them yet, but i have seen it posted more than once that they are the ones. to read the whole thread you have to click on the topic in the blue banner at the top of the box, took me a while to figure that out too Resurrecting thread from the dead... Danny tuned, did that Superwinch part number work? www.superwinch.com/Premium_Hubs.htmlHas anyone installed these hubs on the 2000+ MS? |
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Post by cwic on Jul 12, 2009 21:31:13 GMT -5
I have them on mine!
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Post by bahnstoermer on Jul 13, 2009 9:58:49 GMT -5
Ok great, I ordered them over the weekend! I wonder why no one is listing wheel / hub components for the 2000+ if things work? There must be some design feature of the hub that they don't want to take liability for even though it appears "standard" parts are working....? Did you get any audible "chatter" after installing the hubs? Thanks for confirming that they work! |
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Post by cwic on Jul 14, 2009 18:21:59 GMT -5
no noise from them
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Post by bdmontero on Jul 14, 2009 22:03:40 GMT -5
Okay I am interested now as well with my 98 ls 4x4. I love the fact that I don't have to get out and lock them in place but for one: would that not require less maintenance and also result in better mileage with manuals?
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Post by bahnstoermer on Jul 15, 2009 22:31:40 GMT -5
Great... 4 weeks was the quoted delivery time, but that's good to know. BD: Yes, it should result in slightly better mileage and better acceleration since you're not forced to spin the whole front axle all the time even though you're not using it. I'm old school - trucks should have a direct lever to the transfer case (none of this vacuum s**t) and locking hubs. No failures, no BS. Just lock them when you think you may need them.... unlock them the rest of the time! |
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Post by bdmontero on Jul 20, 2009 15:29:48 GMT -5
Your preachin to the choir man! I agree 100%! How much are they and where do I get them? install time?
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Post by bahnstoermer on Jul 31, 2009 7:47:27 GMT -5
I got them installed. Mine took more time because I rotated all four wheels at the same time. I've seen elsewhere posted 15 minutes, but I can't imagine doing it in that short of time unless you knew exactly what to do ahead of time and were racing for a hot blond to boot.
It should be doable without removing wheels, but you'd have to pull the hub covers off manually which sometimes I can't do without pulling a few lug nuts. Anyway, the Superwinch part number for the older Montero's is what I bought and they went right on my 2000 no problem.
I was hoping for a little more noticeable increase in acceleration, but I'd still rather have these. I got mine from Summitt. They added like $11 handling AND a shipping charge, so they came out to like $110 delivered. Kinda shady on the handling charge, but it's too late now I guess.
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Post by mitsuman03 on Oct 9, 2009 8:04:20 GMT -5
I would not worry about putting in man hubs i would either Put ARb air lockers on both diffs or electro magnetic lockers, manual hubs are pointless unless your already stuck by the time you decide you want for just do lockers
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