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Post by fireman on May 23, 2008 18:59:17 GMT -5
This thing has been getting very hot in traffic, seems to go down when I get moving, but not always
Last summer, I removed the clutch fan and installed 2 big electric fans to keep it cool. In the winter, I put the clutch fan back on and want to keep it this way. The big electrics was just a temporary fix and I had to turn them on/off with a switch etc, I don't want to run them.
I had the radiator completely cleaned out at a shop last summer, put a new Tstat in a few months before that. Replaced radiator cap as well. The factory electric fan works, I have made sure of that. I have evn removed 2 off road lights so more air can get to the radiator.
I am running straight water and a rust inhibitor, thats it.
Last night, it was around 55* out and raining and we tried the heat. NO heat at all. I am getting PO125 trouble code and will grab that sensor tomorrow, I just don't see how it will solve my problem.
It seems I can fill the radiator to the top, drive around for a couple days, then the radiator will be down on fluid again. It seems everytime I open the hood, I need to fill the radiator. This thing does not leak coolant anywhere and there is no water in the oil, I have not noticed it smoking either and it runs great.
I have been battling this for a couple years now, its not so bad in the winter other than the heat doesn't work.
I plan on getting another Tstat when I grab the sensor and will replace both.
Please give me some simple tests I can try.
Thanks
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Post by Joel_CA on May 23, 2008 19:55:14 GMT -5
Pressure test the cooling system and see if it's holding pressure. If it's not- you have a leak somewhere. The leak should be evident during the pressure testing. Check all the hoses and pipes including the one behind the water pump. You might be able to see it just beneath the intake if you shine a light down there. I have see water pump o rings leak water into the area between the cylinder heads making it a difficult leak to find without pressure testing.
JJ
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Post by bdmontero on May 24, 2008 11:39:03 GMT -5
Also you need to run a high quality coolent man. These engine were designed to run 50/50 of water and coolent. The coolent helps reduce heat and helps with corrosion as well. This could be some of your problem. Also yes get a pressure test. I have done alot of these and about 30% of them failed the test so it is a good idea. Dodge neons suck at holding pressure.
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Post by CerOf on Jun 6, 2008 11:57:53 GMT -5
fyi, plain water by itself cools better than "coolant."
The "coolant" helps with corrosion and freeze issues.
If in a warm climate, get some distilled water and water wetter by Redline and call it done. Otherwise back off on the coolant mixture from 50/50 to 70/30.
I run 75/25 water to coolant as I'm in texas and it gets below freezing in dallas only a few days a year and then only just below.
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Post by melvinscott on Jul 31, 2008 0:05:30 GMT -5
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Post by bdmontero on Jul 31, 2008 20:42:23 GMT -5
FYI coolant was designed to run in vehicles so why not run them? The only reason NASCAR uses only water is because they can't have coolant spills on the track cause of the glycol(slick) and the pressure in the system is what helps it cool or not overheat so please man your preachin to the preacher.
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Post by bdmontero on Aug 4, 2008 19:27:56 GMT -5
Also a good radiator cap is a must. I also run 50/50 napa brand antifreeze and pure filtered water and have never ever had a cooling problem. I know for a fact though that good pressure is the key for a cool car.
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Post by safetydave on Aug 5, 2008 7:50:23 GMT -5
I had a similar symptom. '93 van. Every once in a while it would puke out the coolant in the reservoir. But never more than that. Did it for about 3-4 years until the headgasket went big time (think steam engine)
My hypothesis is that I had a pinhole leak in the HG and if I turned of the engine off with one cylinder at the top, it would squeeze out enough heat/gas to push the coolant out the res.
Didn't have any heat either, but that was an unrelated issue.
Pressure test is still the best bet. at least to eliminate the easily repaired stuff.
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Post by chasking1 on Aug 5, 2008 7:58:44 GMT -5
I had the same problem happening 9 months ago.
The mechanic found a pin hole leak in the waterpump housing, it was an aftermarket that was put on the first time I had the timing belt changed. so at 130,000 miles I had the waterpump, timing belt and all the front seals (cam, crank) replaced, plugs. the only other thing I would have done was have the valve cover gaskets replaced if I had it done over.
Chas
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Post by dexter91 on Aug 5, 2008 15:55:29 GMT -5
that was funny dont preach to the preacher!!
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Post by bdmontero on Aug 5, 2008 17:06:09 GMT -5
I know I hate to argue with people, all I want to do is enjoy this site and somebody thinks they know it all and has to be rude ya know? I don't know everything trust me I have ALOT to learn but I did go to automotive school for 4 years to get ASE certified so I think I know what I'm talkin about.
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Post by grnlantern1 on Feb 11, 2012 15:09:14 GMT -5
I was having a similiar situation but i didnt have issues with the heat..I flushed my coolant sysytem and seemed to be working then a couple days later I smelt coolant when i got to work and opened the hood founf that my upper radiator hose had slipped back off the kneck and air was escaping with a little fluid I still had the squeeze style clamp (they suck) replaced with a turn style clamp and my issues went away..just double check your clamps too Water Water is the bomb I use it as well
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Post by doarmihai on Feb 11, 2012 23:10:52 GMT -5
the egr system burns coolant
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Post by grnlantern1 on Feb 14, 2012 20:16:07 GMT -5
This might be off topic but since my last post I discovered my upper hose neck is cracking and falling apart cheap *** plastic tanks..What's your guys recommendations for a new radiator I found a 2 core CSF for 144.00 full metal no plastic tanks looking for opinions..I found a Koyo as well but I think it has the plastic tanks..
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Post by grnlantern1 on Feb 14, 2012 20:16:22 GMT -5
This might be off topic but since my last post I discovered my upper hose neck is cracking and falling apart cheap *** plastic tanks..What's your guys recommendations for a new radiator I found a 2 core CSF for 144.00 full metal no plastic tanks looking for opinions..I found a Koyo as well but I think it has the plastic tanks..
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