Hey Edward... here was the PM I sent to Dirk about what I went through... added a few pics...
I first removed the side steps for clearance. Spray everything down with PB Blaster! Let soak.
12mm bolts into the top and 12mm nuts to the side on the side steps.
14mm bolt heads and nuts on the body mounts. Mine came loose pretty easy. I did reuse the factory washers that looked to be in good shape.
Threads say the best way is to do one side at a time. Less chance you will shift the body out of alignment or completely off the frame. I took everything apart in the interior to expose all the bolts first. Then I began simply breaking everything loose. Like you do lugs with the car on the ground before you lift the wheel off the ground.
Front mounts are straight forward.
Ok as for the rest... Yes... they have to be accessed in the cabin. The all have little black rubber plastic covers over them except number 3 buy the seat belt! First remove all your plastic door sills.
Counting the forward most bolt as 1...
the 2nd is under the kick panel on each side. Where a-pillar meets the body
the 3rd is right at the b-pillar base just inside of where the seat belt mounts to the floor. That being said you have to remove the seat belt cover on the b-pillar. Again this one has no rubber cover over it
the 4th bolt is by the rear seat by the c-pillar base. I just pulled the plastic side/cargo panel edge up to get the carpet out of the way. ON the passenger side you have to remove the factory bottle jack and bracket to get to it.
mid body there is one funky mount, can't remember if it is 3 or 4... will have to crawl under to verify... Its right by the fuel filter...
It has a large circular metal piece. I'm not sure what it is for exactly. It used an additional washer and bolt.
all together prior to disassembly
took of the first bolt...and this came off
this was what remained on the body... you can see the fuel filter
now removed the rest...
here is how it goes together less the body mount still stuck on the body...
I'm trying to rememeber if I needed a longer bolt for this. I don't remember buying an extra long one...
the rear is a pita... I started by taking the rear most floor storage box out and the covers on the side ones. I then removed the rear lower sill along the floor. I assumed I could remove the side ones apart from the cargo side panel, but I was wrong. They are one piece with side cargo panels, so a complete tear down was in order. I removed the hardware on the other floor storage box. Then you have to remove bolts on the front most tie downs. 10mm... with them out you can fold forward the storage box onto the back seats. Then I got to work on the side cargo panels. I removed that rail that the cargo cover attaches to and removed the lower fasteners on the side cargo panel. Then I could pull the panel inward to the center of the vehicle to gain clearance to that rear bolt. but first I had to remove the rear most tie downs. Now I could pull the panel inward. there are plastic clips holding it to the body. I started at the bottom where the lower sill normal resides and pulled the panel in and up easily to detach the clips along the cargo opening next to the weather strip then worked forward. I got the panel out of the way enough to see the oval cover on the rear most bolt. Success. I had exposed them all!
remember on the passenger side Don't forget to carefully detach the wiring on the rear AUX power supply (cigarette lighter socket thingy..
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Ok from post I read you have to go one side at a time. Again just break all the bolts free just a little on. Just to be sure you aren't going to have any stuck ones once you begin. if everyone will start to loosen you are golden. Now leave everything in place.
Then crawl under and look at every thing that goes from the frame to the body. detach all clips holding lines to the frame. Check for hard lines, wiring and vacuum lines. I crawled around under there for a dang hour looking for anything and everything. Most is in the engine bay. I took a lot apart I did not need to, but better to be safe then sorry. I took the rear brake lines loose as they ran down the trans tunnel.
For sure you will have to detach the front brake line mounts that are bolted and get the front brake line free (vertically) from its bracket body mount and shock bracket mount in the fender well. For this you have to pull out a "u" shaped retaining clip. This will allow the line some up and down movement, but it wont detach. there is also the same dumb design by the shock mount. Stupid design in my opinion. You would have to take the brake line loose to do this. Nope, not this go around!
I might address all this in the future if a upgrade to stainless lines (if they make that for these?) For the one by the shock mount. I was going to cut it with my dremel to relieve the line stress, but the dremel failed. So a big hammer was the solution. More on this further down
As for other things. I had to remove the lower portion of the fan shroud to avoid contact. it has clips holding it on. easy once you look at it. Also the gas filler neck. I had to extend mine but removing and replacing the factory one. The factory one is held on with clamps. they are seized on pretty good. I removed the clamps and the lift assisted with the pulling free. if you have a hook tool you can coax the rubber to let go and work it off. The bad thing is the factory hose is smaller on one end versus the other. I had to go with the larger end. So I really had to crank on the hose clamp on the neck side to get it to tighten down nicely.
It worked though with no leaks!
The elbow hose is at O'Reilys auto parts. it is a Gates 24716 gas filler neck hose Elbow). its cheaper on amazon.
I had to cut off a bit on both ends to make it fit without kinking.
looks like it was a touch over 2 inches off one end and one and a half off the other. Again The rubber factory filler neck hose elbow is removed and replaced with this one. (after you lift it
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ok so you are ready to jack it up. One side at a time. Remove all you body mount bolts on which ever side you want to start. I started on the drivers side. Use board between the jack head and body to go along the body to spread the load. I got the longest I could fit flat run parallel centered on the side. the jack head alone will dent or punch thru the body. Chock the tires!
start SLOWLY, SLOWLY, SLOWLY jacking. This is something you don't just assume and begin lifting with the jack like a madman. slow and easy, lift, stop check everything. look for lines taking up slack and becoming tight. check to see if anything is catching/pulling that you missed. A spotter you trust could be a big help. you pump slow they look around front to back all the fame and body separation and any tension on lines.
WATCH THE BRAKE LINES! These will have to be addressed as you lift the body. You will have to maneuver and slack them as needed as you go. The line between that body and shock mount will get tight as the dickens. the line has a neck that will partially pass thru the holes in the shock mounts. The body mount it pull push all the way down thru the hole and the hard line will then be captured in the hole. You will have to feed the hard line from the engine bay side of the body thru the hole in the sheet metal down wards towards the captive body mount to give slack. You have to maneuver it thru as far as you can as you go. you will have to work it to make it move vertically. Again my cutting of the shock mount to allow it to bend upward and allow slack worked great.
close up of cut and grommet for the brake line once relocated in the bracket...
grommet shot
My dremel died after the drivers side. the passenger side I simply had to rely on getting enough slack from the hard line from the engine bay side and slipping it thru the hole in the sheet metal to the body mount. it worked but barely.
close up... the stretch is a bit more then I like. I will go back and cut it like the drivers side later.
I would say you can leave the shock mount intact and feed the engine bay side hard line down thru the hole towards the mount. some have said they have to unkink the line some to get it to reach. I barely did. probably due to the shock mount cuts.
Now one thing you have to address after... the hard line is now running thru the body mount with no protection. over time the metal on that mount could rub a hole in the hardline. I addressed this by getting a grommet and cutting it to slip over the hard line and then fitting it in the body mount hole. now the grommet centers and protects the hardline.
Ok so you are still jacking and the body is not letting go of the frame... LOL! I thought I was going to lift the tires off the ground. Just careful you don't over do it and have the body up and the frame lets go and the lines suddenly rip due to it being up too much! I'm trying to remember if mine just let go or if I had to coax it. I do know I maxed out my jack and had go from a 2x4 to a 4x4. But a lot of that will depend on your tire size as well. mine were not factory sized.
Once you get the one side up and the spacers in I snugged but didn't super tighten. Was afraid I might bind things. Make sure you center up the spacers good. Moved to the next side. same deal slow and easy watching everything. once its done, then I tightened everything down for good. I then had to go back and put all the retainers and bracket back that would go. I just made sure nothing was too taunt or I left the bracket free. Then I added my new gas filler neck hose. then buttoned up the interior. Long process but well worth it.
ON mine I had no issues with the shifter handle or 4wd shifter assembly. All worked just fine after the lift.