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Post by redraif on Feb 8, 2016 9:47:22 GMT -5
NOTE: I'm not talking about the EGR solenoid! Colted and I have been chasing EGR codes that keep coming up on our Sports. So far I have replaced... EGR, EGR solenoid, vacuum lines, the EGR system was cleaned by the shop. Yet my code persists. As far as I know Colted has done the same with the same code returning. Maybe my shop screwed up the cleaning or it has crudded back up??? msport97.proboards.com/thread/10935/sport-0431-0401-0740-plus?page=3 Anyway, as this is a specific question about the operation of a specific valve, which no one has chimed in on... I decided let me break out and ask! Can anyone say how this thing works so I can check it? Which is in which is out? GM was easy to check. They used them in the vacuum system as well as in the window sprayer lines. You would suck on the one side and if there was resistance the seal inside was good. if air moved through freely on both fittings (suck or blow) then the inner seal was blown. Or if there was resistance in both fittings... it was clogged. Anyone know how this valve works? I'm 99% sure its a one way check valve, but what way? **** If I remember correctly... The one consistent thing between Colted and I... Both of us pinched the yellow vacuum line at the TB and neither Sport died. Mine almost stumbled, but recovered. I wonder if the check valve is allowing air to leak the wrong way and thus lets the Sports recover from the pinched line? **** I hate to just buy one if I don't need to. Dealer is never cheap, even for some plastic unit that should be a few bucks! Holy moly... in researching had a price come up $79.00 for the dang thing: www.carid.com/2001-mitsubishi-montero-sport-emissions-parts/www.carid.com/2001-mitsubishi-montero-sport-emissions-parts/wp-mopar-egr-vacuum-controller-8373402.htmlIf I had time I would go collect a ton at the yards and test them all to learn how the majority work. That way I could test cleaners without worry of destroying mine. Mine was so cruddy looking with soot, I had no desire to stick my lips to it! No I don't have a Vacuum tool. Though this might be a good way to convince the spouse if all else fails! IN researching I found this reply in a thread. Not Sport, but Mitsubishi. mitsubishiforum.com/forum/intake-headers-exhaust-23/what-tells-egr-valve-operate-30313/#post233375Thread ends with no resolution. Dude traded his car in for a truck. Based on this picture and post I would think I might be on the right track in thinking this vacuum control valve could cause the EGR code and improper operation. the components in the pic look dead on to ours, just different routing. 12431 looks like what I pictured.
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Post by mrgalantguy on Feb 8, 2016 15:28:36 GMT -5
Following this thread...I have been dealing with a persistant PO400 code and can't figure it out. Previous owner stated he was chasing a EGR code for a while till the shop put in a new aftermarket EGR right before I bought it. After a few months of owning it..the PO400 code has been a CEL gremlin ever since. I am planning on doing a smoke test on my vacation to see if there is a leak somewhere.
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Post by colted on Feb 8, 2016 21:08:36 GMT -5
Hey Red....I have an extra EGR vacuum controller/modulator I got from the yard, you can have it if you want.
BTW,yours was reversed on that Evap solenoid right?.....do they go bad as well and how do we check it?....might need another trip to a nearby Pull-A-Part again......was also contemplating on getting another MAF sensor, not sure if it can also trigger P0401 but been feeling a little jerk/vibration when it sits idle on a light in "D-Drive" and foot on the brakes......just got the PCV valve from Amazon today and waiting for the 5/32 "blue" vacuum hoses and get them replaced this weekend weather permitting.
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Post by redraif on Feb 8, 2016 22:09:47 GMT -5
Hey Red....I have an extra EGR vacuum controller/modulator I got from the yard, you can have it if you want. BTW,yours was reversed on that Evap solenoid right?.....do they go bad as well and how do we check it?....might need another trip to a nearby Pull-A-Part again......was also contemplating on getting another MAF sensor, not sure if it can also trigger P0401 but been feeling a little jerk/vibration when it sits idle on a light in "D-Drive" and foot on the brakes......just got the PCV valve from Amazon today and waiting for the 5/32 "blue" vacuum hoses and get them replaced this weekend weather permitting. A spare vac controller... that would be awesome colted. Thank you. First, are you sure yours is ok? As for the evap... it appears mine is backwards, but i still have no confirmation on all the differences i found. Awesome on the blue. I would love to get white or silver... but first to get it running right... then on to pretty and a bit of performance. In some of my research i did see that maf fluxes can cause issues with egr. I think iac as well. One thread was discussing something like the ford dpfe... a manifold differential pressure sensor. Do ours have that? Hoping to have mine back by this weekend.
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Post by dirk on Feb 8, 2016 23:04:19 GMT -5
I am using various blue silicone hoses for vacuum lines etc. A little bit of info I learned is they stretch a bit I have almost always had to use 1 size smaller to insure a snug fit, or you need special clamps that are designed for silicone hose. If they are blue rubber then ignore what I just said lol. I went with blue for 2 reasons, looks being one, other is then I knew which hoses were new and which were old as I swap them out when time permits.
Also if silicone I'd be careful not to use them for any fluid lines. I used one for a pic line and the little bit of oil that goes through that line turned it brown fast. The oil swaps right into it. But for vacuum lines one size smaller they been perfect. I like that they are better with high heat, and extreme cold my engine bay experiences. I also used a piece for the radiator overflow tank over flow (the one that just dumps it into engine bay since that one has never seen fluid. I do want to get blue silicone covered coolant lines etc eventually but they are lined with a different material.
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Post by redraif on Feb 8, 2016 23:15:51 GMT -5
I used a high end red silicone on my firebird. They were great. Been wary to just jump on the first kind I find. Its easy to get cheap silicone that will colapse on you. So hoping to track down the good stuff when it does come pretty time.
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Post by dclambertt on Feb 9, 2016 11:55:29 GMT -5
And no more mudding after pretty time!
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Post by colted on Feb 9, 2016 22:27:25 GMT -5
I am using various blue silicone hoses for vacuum lines etc. A little bit of info I learned is they stretch a bit I have almost always had to use 1 size smaller to insure a snug fit, or you need special clamps that are designed for silicone hose. If they are blue rubber then ignore what I just said lol. I went with blue for 2 reasons, looks being one, other is then I knew which hoses were new and which were old as I swap them out when time permits. Also if silicone I'd be careful not to use them for any fluid lines. I used one for a pic line and the little bit of oil that goes through that line turned it brown fast. The oil swaps right into it. But for vacuum lines one size smaller they been perfect. I like that they are better with high heat, and extreme cold my engine bay experiences. I also used a piece for the radiator overflow tank over flow (the one that just dumps it into engine bay since that one has never seen fluid. I do want to get blue silicone covered coolant lines etc eventually but they are lined with a different material. I opted for the blue since my newly replaced NGK plug wires from RockAuto were blue as well,lol....this i what I ordered from Ebay and should be delivered by Thursday. link
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Post by colted on Feb 9, 2016 22:34:40 GMT -5
Hey Red....I have an extra EGR vacuum controller/modulator I got from the yard, you can have it if you want. BTW,yours was reversed on that Evap solenoid right?.....do they go bad as well and how do we check it?....might need another trip to a nearby Pull-A-Part again......was also contemplating on getting another MAF sensor, not sure if it can also trigger P0401 but been feeling a little jerk/vibration when it sits idle on a light in "D-Drive" and foot on the brakes......just got the PCV valve from Amazon today and waiting for the 5/32 "blue" vacuum hoses and get them replaced this weekend weather permitting. A spare vac controller... that would be awesome colted. Thank you. First, are you sure yours is ok?As for the evap... it appears mine is backwards, but i still have no confirmation on all the differences i found. Awesome on the blue. I would love to get white or silver... but first to get it running right... then on to pretty and a bit of performance. In some of my research i did see that maf fluxes can cause issues with egr. I think iac as well. One thread was discussing something like the ford dpfe... a manifold differential pressure sensor. Do ours have that? Hoping to have mine back by this weekend. that's the only thing I can't guarantee since I just snagged it from the yard and didn't observe or get any improvement/fix my P0401 issue.......let me know so I can get it shipped to you...funny, been reading about those ford threads as well and they all been taking about DPFE, and if I am not mistaken and as I've read in one of the Mitsu Lancer forums, we don't have that on our trucks..... link
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Post by colted on Feb 17, 2016 23:41:30 GMT -5
Red,
that part wherein the hose were found to be reverse, do you know how to test it and if they ever go bad?...what about MAP sensor (black part on top of the plenum), do they also contribute to P0401 code when bad?
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jocks
Junior Member
Posts: 28
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Post by jocks on Feb 18, 2016 2:55:11 GMT -5
Download the FSM from mitsubishilinks.com, the 17.pdf file inside the zip gives a pretty detailed rundown of how to test the EGR and relative solenoids and gadgets. Me trying to explain how an EGR system works would be like a cave painting. All i know is its there and if it breaks i start fixing it. Something to do with the emissions system ...
I was just having a quick read through it and seems like most of the diagnostic can be done with a vacuum pump and multi-meter. So best of luck to you guys.
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Post by redraif on Feb 18, 2016 10:24:38 GMT -5
Red, that part wherein the hose were found to be reverse, do you know how to test it and if they ever go bad?...what about MAP sensor (black part on top of the plenum), do they also contribute to P0401 code when bad? Not sure colted... Guess I will see when I get the Sport back. As of right now, I'm not even sure if the hose replacement worked or not on mine to clear the code. I drove for a day and the CEL did not self clear, but that could also be the passenger O2, so I reset the PC the night before the tensioner failed. So no dice there. So I will have to drive it and see if I get any codes. As soon as I get it back I will buy new and swap the EVAP hose route to match yours. Then drive it and see. If I still have issues I will pick up the MightyVac from Harbor freight and start checking vacuum. Something else to learn how to do! Shop called and the parts will not be in till Friday. Hoping to get it Sat morning. Then I will have a good drive, mileage wise. We have an appointment on Saturday at CarMax in Norcross (I believe) to go see a black 2013 Optima SXL (turbo). Yes spouse put down the proverbial foot! Wants a under warranty car to drive to work. So far the Sport is safe from the chopping block. Not sure who might get booted though... Been telling the cars to straighten up and be on their best behavior! So if the Optima comes home with us I can tinker on the Sport a bit harder! I can also work on a few of the mods I have been putting off since we have been driving it!
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Post by jkdv8 on Feb 18, 2016 16:05:15 GMT -5
If these egr problems surfaced after removing the plenum for service/maintenance it may be worth it to check into that. When you test the resistance on the egr solenoid to compare it to specs it needs to be off the vehicle. The case might act as a ground because I got two different figures when testing it on and off the vehicle. I beleive the auto parts places will rent you a vacuum pump.
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Post by colted on Feb 18, 2016 22:10:50 GMT -5
Red, that part wherein the hose were found to be reverse, do you know how to test it and if they ever go bad?...what about MAP sensor (black part on top of the plenum), do they also contribute to P0401 code when bad? Not sure colted... Guess I will see when I get the Sport back. As of right now, I'm not even sure if the hose replacement worked or not on mine to clear the code. I drove for a day and the CEL did not self clear, but that could also be the passenger O2, so I reset the PC the night before the tensioner failed. So no dice there. So I will have to drive it and see if I get any codes. As soon as I get it back I will buy new and swap the EVAP hose route to match yours. Then drive it and see. If I still have issues I will pick up the MightyVac from Harbor freight and start checking vacuum. Something else to learn how to do! Shop called and the parts will not be in till Friday. Hoping to get it Sat morning. Then I will have a good drive, mileage wise. We have an appointment on Saturday at CarMax in Norcross (I believe) to go see a black 2013 Optima SXL (turbo). Yes spouse put down the proverbial foot! Wants a under warranty car to drive to work. So far the Sport is safe from the chopping block. Not sure who might get booted though... Been telling the cars to straighten up and be on their best behavior! So if the Optima comes home with us I can tinker on the Sport a bit harder! I can also work on a few of the mods I have been putting off since we have been driving it! awesome car!....If you have time this saturday, might be good to check out this gun show nearby....https://gunshowtrader.com/gun-shows/gwinnett-gun-show/....I'll go there too, maybe later in the afternoon......hmmn, I'll have to check that vacuum pump at a nearby Harbor Freight in Lilburn.
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Post by colted on Feb 18, 2016 22:12:48 GMT -5
If these egr problems surfaced after removing the plenum for service/maintenance it may be worth it to check into that. When you test the resistance on the egr solenoid to compare it to specs it needs to be off the vehicle. The case might act as a ground because I got two different figures when testing it on and off the vehicle. I beleive the auto parts places will rent you a vacuum pump. hey jkdv8, that slight vibration has been there ever since......even before I had my last spark plug change w/c took out the plenum....it was even worse before the tune up where the vehicle will actually surge and almost die on a light, I had it posted in another thread wherein voltage even drops all the way to 12.5VDC while it's doing it.
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