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Post by jkdv8 on Nov 10, 2016 16:03:22 GMT -5
If they're built right they shouldn't cause any problems. I'll see if I can find some more reviews for those.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Nov 10, 2016 19:28:18 GMT -5
I haven't had any problems with them but you could most likely get just as good performance from OEM rotors. More surface area more grabbing from the pads😊 KIM, what I posted is actually how that all works. What would actually be noticeable to a human being is another thing altogether. Personally, the possible mechanical issues are what concern me. Cracked rotor(s) just suck. But, some designs suffer from this horribly and some never see problems so YMMV. Heat transfer and dissipation could cause HUGE issues but are so dependent on who, where and how much that its impossible to predict if someone would have an issue. What is not a 'theoretical' is crud migrating between the rotor and pad through the holes. I was reading a thread last winter where a few guys were relating some instances where they'd had that happen. Messy. Edward
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Post by bdmontero on Nov 10, 2016 19:30:10 GMT -5
Yes that could be an issue. When I get new rotors by then I'll have an SAS done. Lol also I drive like a grandma so I don't really worry about glowing orange rotors. But crud accumulation is a very real possible problem. I did for a trial run. So far zero issues.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Nov 10, 2016 20:30:58 GMT -5
Yes that could be an issue. When I get new rotors by then I'll have an SAS done. Lol also I drive like a grandma so I don't really worry about glowing orange rotors. But crud accumulation is a very real possible problem. I did for a trial run. So far zero issues. Yea, I'm a little concerned with that on the big Sport now. The friction coefficient on those Wilwood pads is crazy. After I've been on the brakes a lot in highway traffic the rotors get HOT. Last time I had the tire rotated I could put my hand 2' away from the rotor and feel the heat radiating off them. But that's a 6000 lb vehicle. The tech and I checked the front rotors a few weeks ago when we replaced the pads and they were exhibiting a tiny bit of wear but otherwise looked brand new. Brakes are a PITA. There are a zillion variables. The average human has no hope of predicting what's going to happen. I've read thread after thread on Pirate of one guy doing something and three others doing the same thing and two have no issues and two do. An old boss who's trucks I used to service and my dad run the same GM rotors I do and they've NEVER had an issue. I can warp a brand new or rebuilt set of GM rotors and destroy a set of calipers in 6-8 months and that's with milk-toast OEM pads. There definitely isn't a 'one size fits all' solution for brakes. The crud in the brakes is nasty. I was reading stuff from the mudders down south. They don't run disks, they run drums all the way around, specifically because of the associated problems. Its nowhere near as big an issue here in CO in the Rockies, but half the time in UT the 'water' is more silica than water. The few crossings I did in Aug, I could hear the grinding of the sand between the rotors and pads after I crawled out. It wasn't different from only slotted rotors but it was a lot worse. I didn't need to do a water crossing and then do a bunch of heavy braking right away so I didn't notice anything but several of the threads had guys complaining of wet drum brake behavior. Water and crud between the pads and rotors resulting in no or substantially reduced braking. With a M/T I probably just don't notice but there was a lot of noise from the A/T crowd. Edward
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Post by pinstryper on Nov 10, 2016 21:41:42 GMT -5
actually seen people replace slotted/drilled rotors with factory as benefit was negligable at best.
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Post by jkdv8 on Nov 11, 2016 16:25:46 GMT -5
They're really not needed although they do dissipate heat better if they're vented as well. If they're not vented it doesn't do any good. Reducing heat reduces fade which is really the only point. It doesn't necessarily improve stopping power. The ones you hear of cracking are usually poorly made, or the wrong pads are used, or they were drilled/slotted after the manufacturing process which is a big no no. With these heavy trucks and marginal at best braking I could see there being an improvement. Being an off-roader though the crud aspect is always an issue. The crud in the brakes is nasty. I was reading stuff from the mudders down south. They don't run disks, they run drums all the way around, specifically because of the associated problems. Edward I've never heard of a wheeler changing discs out for drums especially for mudding. There is a reason these trucks (and many others) that are 4wd drive have disc on the rear versus drums on the 2wd variant. Maybe you're referring to the Midwest south but with this Georgia red clay you would be baking pots driving it on the streets after mudding.
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Post by bdmontero on Nov 12, 2016 9:55:35 GMT -5
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Post by bdmontero on Nov 12, 2016 10:00:08 GMT -5
Those are 315/75/16 hankook dynapro's on 16"x10x139.7x108 mm bore. -25 offset. American racing rims. I have a add a leaf and stiffer new stuff up front so I have an additional 2 inch on top of the 4" inch. So 6" at least total. Super happy.
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Post by pinstryper on Nov 12, 2016 17:52:37 GMT -5
can you get a picture from back or front? Trying to see how far they stick out
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Post by bdmontero on Nov 12, 2016 18:58:56 GMT -5
Sure
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Post by bdmontero on Nov 12, 2016 20:41:18 GMT -5
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Post by ES_97Sport on Nov 14, 2016 17:05:48 GMT -5
So, SOOOO nice!!! That makes me want to have the '99 done SO bad!! Man, I had forgotten how close the tire gets to the trailing edge of the front wheel wells. When they were doing the front before they cranked the torsion bars back up, did they cycle the front to check for clearance? Body lift in the very near future? Edward
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Post by bdmontero on Nov 14, 2016 17:07:59 GMT -5
Thanks! No it was turning the wheels and we're done. Lol they only (slightly) rub on the lower inner fender well. Torsion bars are at factory height. Nah no body lift for me I'm pretty happy with it as it is. Although I'm sure to break something on the ifs eventually. Lol also they labeled this as a 4" inch lift. Not even close. More like a 6-7". NOT including any add a leafs or stiffer torsion bars. Still fighting them over the torsion drop bracket too. Altogether AFTER everything was done I'm pretty happy with it. If anyone is thinking this plan on around 3000 to do everything. Including lift work and install.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Nov 14, 2016 18:10:51 GMT -5
Thanks! No it was turning the wheels and we're done. Lol they only (slightly) rub on the lower inner fender well. Torsion bars are at factory height. Nah no body lift for me I'm pretty happy with it as it is. Ah. Yea, I was wondering. Your tires are actually about 1/4" bigger than my 35"s. Be careful turning the wheel and stuffing a tire. That's where it used to bite me in the backside. Yea, I was wondering from your previous posts. A SOA is worth about 6" and your Sport is about what mine looked like right after the SOA but before the 4-5" actual 'lift'. Have you measured from the ground to the bottom of the frame (in the middle of the vehicle) yet? I'm really curious where its sitting now. Sounds about right. $3K is about the cost of a 4" Jeep lift installed here. "torsion drop bracket"? Edward
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Post by bdmontero on Nov 14, 2016 18:14:57 GMT -5
The company sent me a drop bracket instead of keeping them in the factory location. Forgot to mention it until AFTER I got the kit. Lol so I filed a PayPal dispute and it looks like they are siding with me.
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