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Post by ocmonteroguy on Sept 5, 2011 23:06:55 GMT -5
Just to be safe, I'll go with what the manufacturer says lol
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Post by OnSafari on Sept 6, 2011 12:16:24 GMT -5
By the way Castrol Import is SPIII. I understand the whole using the wrong fluid thing. Such as using DEXRON®–VI in your MS is WRONG. Castrol Import is NOT wrong. Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle is NOT SPIII. It is "SP III compatible" according to Castrol. That isn't the same as being genuine SP III. The Castrol fluid is also "compatible" with Honda/Acura ATF–Z1, Toyota/Lexus Type T, T–III, T–IV, Nissan/Infiniti Matic–D, Matic–J, BMW LA2634, LT71141, and Volvo. Add to that ATF+3, ATF+2, ATF+, Ford MERCON, MERCON V, General Motors DEXRON–III H and prior, and Allison C–4. It's a "universal" import fluid that is full of stuff to allow Castrol to claim it is compatible with the most possible number of applications. Use whatever you want, but when your seals crap out, or your clutch packs burn up, be ready to pay up. I don't know why ATF is such a controversial topic when it comes up. It's the old, "You can pay me now, or you can pay me later" deal. Nobody cares what you use, as long as you don't complain later about the results if you didn't use SP III. BTW, just as a point of clarification, if you have a Aisin transmission, as BD stated, they are not as picky about fluid. If you have a Invecs transmission, best to just use SP III and save yourself a headache down the road. The Invecs transmissions are very difficult and costly to repair when they fail. Anything you can do to mitigate the potential for trans failure should be considered.
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Post by brushout on Sept 6, 2011 15:09:25 GMT -5
Well then, I am really screwed! I just checked my owners manual and it states under transmission fluid that it is RECOMMENDED SP II.
And I just added a butt load of SP III "Like" fluid.
I will let you know how it goes.
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Post by redcentinela on Sept 6, 2011 16:26:53 GMT -5
I have a 1999 Monty with Aisin tranny and it only states SPIII, not the Diamond SPIII. Also, the Owners and the Service Manual says nothing about the Diamond SPIII, only SPIII. Of course, I could use it if I wanted to buy it but I don't because it is too way expensive and if I have another good option, I'll go that way.
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Post by brushout on Sept 6, 2011 18:59:10 GMT -5
Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle is NOT SPIII. It is "SP III compatible" according to Castrol. That isn't the same as being genuine SP III. The Castrol fluid is also "compatible" with Honda/Acura ATF–Z1, Toyota/Lexus Type T, T–III, T–IV, Nissan/Infiniti Matic–D, Matic–J, BMW LA2634, LT71141, and Volvo. Add to that ATF+3, ATF+2, ATF+, Ford MERCON, MERCON V, General Motors DEXRON–III H and prior, and Allison C–4. That must really be some good stuff then.And you left out: Mitsubishi — Diamond SP–II, SP–III Hyundai — SP–II, SP–III
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Post by OnSafari on Sept 6, 2011 19:38:34 GMT -5
That must really be some good stuff then.And you left out: Mitsubishi — Diamond SP–II, SP–III Hyundai — SP–II, SP–III I left it out on purpose because it's redundant. Mitsu and Hyundai SP III are identical. Hyundai licensed a lot of Mitsubishi technology in their early years in this market so a lot of Hyundai transmission use Mitsu fluids, even if Hyundai sells it under their own name. Most Mitsu people know this and are aware that Mitsu and Hyundai SP III are the same exact thing. I'm sure they are both made by Nippon Oil (aka ENEOS) to the same specs. If you can buy Hyundai SP III cheaper than the Diamond product ("Diamond", "DiaQueen", etc. are Mitsu's oil brands, not specific types of fluid), do it. Also, SP III is backwards compatible with SP II. If your trans calls for SP II, you can use SP III. But if your trans requires SP III, you should not use SP II. If you think the fluid requirements for your Montero Sport seems complicated, go take a look at the EVO forums and see all the confusion over transmission, transfer case and LSD fluids.
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Post by brushout on Sept 6, 2011 20:21:00 GMT -5
OnSafariAt this point I am just busting chops. But on a serious note I do not have easy access to any Mitsu products, the closest place is over 200 miles away. I am using what I think is the best alternative. And I am sure you will agree that "Compatible" is better than SP III with 100,000+ miles on it.
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Post by twood3006 on Sept 7, 2011 19:34:38 GMT -5
The service manual says to drain the transmission from the plug first, cap and refill whatever came out, then remove the transmission cooling line going to the radiator, start the engine for 1 minute with the trans in park and drain (you will need two people for this, much easier). If the fluid starts coming out clean then replace the trans cooling line and refill the amount that came out. Then it say to start the truck and cycle the transmission through the gears, put in park and check fluid...DO NOT OVERFILL.
If the fluid still looks dirty, repeat the flush....plan on using 11 quarts.
I've done this at least three different times, I have 220,000 miles and counting on mine.
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Post by hqduong on Sept 10, 2011 22:12:31 GMT -5
About 3 quarts will come out if you drain it from the plug. If you take it and have a domplete flush it's Eleven quarts. Just had mine done a week and a half ago. I did this and realize it was wrong because I am certain I drained more than 3 Quart because I always measure the fluid that I take out to see if I had anything unusual. What year was this? I have a 2002 Limited Sport 3.5 L. I filled mine to 4 quarts and it was above what it is suppose to be on the "hot range" of the dipstick, so I was concerned I overfilled. Then I looked at the service manual and it indicates I need to drive around with 4 quarts, then make sure I move through all the gears by moving the shifter to 1, 2, 3 and Drive (Not While I was driving). Then move the shifter to neutral and then take the measurement. Doing the above method I was on the low end of the dipstick under the "Hot" range. Then I filled up another 1/2 quart and it was perfect. I would double check your 3 quarts to be on the careful side.
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Post by brushout on Sept 11, 2011 11:33:14 GMT -5
Well it happened. Apparently putting SP III compatible fluid in my transmission has caused my water pump to fail. I have the new pump on hand, but I just don't have time to fix it.
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Post by Joel_CA on Sept 12, 2011 1:19:08 GMT -5
I have personally performed SPIII flushes on several INVECS type transmissions to solve TCC (torque converter clutch) shudder issues with success. The majority of these trucks were previously serviced elsewhere at an independent shop or by the owner themselves- which more than likely something other than the correct fluid. It is due to this that I have preached the use of Mitsu SPIII and ONLY Mitsu SPIII in all of Mitsubishi INVECS type transmissions. SPIII is completely backwards compatible to all Mitsubishi transmissions that require Dextron II. Also- the Mitsubishi dealership I used to work for also shared the shop with Dodge. All of the late model Dodge vehicles I've seen with a Mitsubishi powertrain (engine and transmission- ie Avenger, etc) used ATF+4 as recommended by Dodge.
JJ
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Post by brushout on Sept 14, 2011 22:11:58 GMT -5
Yahoo, I am back up and running. Parts all came in and engine is running again. Smooth. I drained the transmission again just to see how much of the old fluid I could get out. I added another 4 quarts of Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle SP III "compatible". Another 45 miles and still running smooth.
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Post by brushout on Oct 15, 2011 21:47:10 GMT -5
Another 1200 miles and still going strong with SP III "compatible" CASTROL IMPORT MULTIVEHICLE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID.
Transmission is shifting smoother than it has in a long time.
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Post by bdmontero on Oct 16, 2011 9:59:20 GMT -5
I see said the blind man to the deaf man. Lol.
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Post by palmsprings on Oct 21, 2011 19:19:23 GMT -5
I decided to call mitsubiti deaLERS in my area to get some answers for servicing my A/T in my M/S 3.0 I called a service person at 4 or 5 mitsu service centers and heres what they said when asked the same questions
My first question was how much for a flush 4 said $153-190 One said $278 because it used 15 qts. (i forgot to ask if the 15 qts total including the flushing machine or in the trans/converter only)
I asked if they did A/T drains with filter change Five said yes , one said there were no filters to change
I aksed 2 if they recommended a flush with my having 165 K. One said he didnt recommend it at all. Another said "well...maybe not, especially if it hadnt been flushed /or drained/filter every 30000 or so miles. He said failure could occur due to particles that may break loose during a flush and afterward while driving around could lodge somewhere resulting a larger problem. He did say he hasnt seen this occur with the M/S ,however.
So what to do based on this... maybe i should just stick with drain and filter change so as not to risk dislodging any crud and making matters worse. Maybe do this frequently a couple times till its all filtered out?
Then theres this: 3-4 qts in the pan drain is not very much fluid replacement considering 11 or so quarts in the whole system?. Seems like the significant advantage to doing a pan drain/filter is to get a new filter.
I dunno. What is the advice from any of you that know the best answer to this issue.
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