Throttle bodie ?

[cwic]

Well my throttle bodie is in auzy land right now and before I get it back I was thinking of doing something that in theory may help lower the incoming air temp but wanted to see if anyone had a reason why it may be a bad idea. There are 2 hoses that connect to the throttle bodie that run antifreeze through it to warm the air when it is cold I belive. If I splice the hoses together and put pieces of hose with a cap on the throttle bodie will I have a prob starting or driving the truck especially in the winter.
Clay

[cwic]

Bump

[cwic]

Well I found out that it cant be done

[Joel_CA]

The coolant that is running to the throttle body is NOT to cool or warm the drawn in air. It is strictly for the FIAV (Fast Idle Air Valve) section of the throttle body which basically allows for more airflow past the throttle plate when cold, then closes off completely when warm. Metallic spring inside of the throttle body reacts to the temperature of the coolant to determine what position it should be in. That and the idle air control motor work together to provide a consistant idle at all temperatures.

Joel, CA

[cwic]

thanks for clearing that up. I just wish it was'nt such a pain to get the throttle bodie on and off and not having to mess with the hoses would have helped. I think it will go on eaiser than it came off though.
Clay

[cwic]

Ok, throtle bodie is back, throttle bodie is on and so is the check engine light. I put the gasket on wrong the first time cause it was a paper aftermarket 1 and I did'nt take it off when I shipped it out so I had no clue how it was supposed to go on. So I got one from the dealership and cut it out so it would'nt block the now bigger hole. I have a feeling though that the light will still come on. I will prob take it into the shop just to double check if there are any leaks and I will finally be going to the track on friday.
Clay

[cwic]

Hey Joel, I had the truck scanned at the dealers and all that came up was a throtle position sensor. I know from looking at the butterfly that it is not at a 90 degree angle so I am guessing that this is why it coded. Other than my idle maybe not being smooth when the temp changes are there any adverse affects this could have on the engine and it's performance? I dont think there is any way I can straighten the butterfly up cause it's too tight but are there any adj I can make anywhere to get it to accept the off angle?
Clay

[s1ckdrag0ns]

hey cwic, i just did the coolant bypass on my throttle body, no problems so far, but ill keep you updated. from what i read about it, like joel said, it shuts off when the engine warms up anyway so for the most part i might get a rough cold idle. i have let it get sit for awhile and went to start it up and no problems, but like i said i just did it so ill give it acouple of days and get back to you.

~tony

[s1ckdrag0ns]

hey cwic,

this is definately something you should consider on doin.
my intake stays so much cooler now, and i notice a slight differance in some low end torqe, which i know where all after.

i have had no probles with cold starts or anything. i think this was a A++ test. and it worked.

~tony

[Joel_CA]

I mean no disrespect, but that is got to be a placebo affect as far as performance gains due to disconnecting the coolant hose at the throttle body.... as i said before, its only there for cold start idle. On top of that, the intake air temp is measured well before that area by the MAFS and any fuel adjustments to that temperature from the PCM is made from that measurement.

CWIC- the throttle plate is never really at a 90degree position with a standard throttle body and is never 100% completely blocking the air from going past it. Since your TB was bored out a bit and the butterly is of standard size- my guess is that your TB is even MORE towards a 90degree position at rest... which would result in an out of spec TPS and Closed Throttle Position (CTP) readings. You'll just need to reset these "at rest" settings and you should be fine.

Good luck to both!

Joel, CA

[s1ckdrag0ns]

none taken Joel,

but all im tryin to do is to make sure that the air that comes into the intake stays at the temp, that the MAF reads by eliminating as much heat from the intake plenum as possible. (i.e. taking out EGR, removing coolant line from TB) since the maf sensor reads the intake air temp right after the filter(cold air), and the ECU adjust acoordingly from there. with the coolant line running through the TB, it would heat up the plenum and things, which in turn would heat up the intake air.

since the ECU has adjusted the mixture for cold air and, now the air is heated up and less dense, you lose HP and low torque. but since i removed all of the things that would heat up my plenum, i am actually getting colder air to my intake and combustion chamber. in turn getting colder air which is more dense= more HP and torque gain.

basically its the physics on why cold air intake works.

[Joel_CA]

I understand what u are trying to accomplish.. but the coolant lines to the throttle body will not make the difference between cold and warm air. Underhood temps will play a greater roll on the temperature of the intake manifold etc. Unless you are running a true cold air intake... the temperature at the MAF and at the intake will be pretty close... it will take a greater change in temperature to affect overall air density.

Joel, CA

[s1ckdrag0ns]

well i modified the hood alittle bit to help out with that underhood temp, awhile ago. here is a pic of my truck:






and my filter sits right beside one of the openings, and yes i am running a water bypass valve! with this mod and all of the engine mods. it stays preety cool under the hood. i was driving around for about 2hours yesturday and came home, popped the hood and i was able to keep my hand on the intake plenum with out it burning, or me screaming. its stays nice and cool.

~tony

[challenger]

This is exactly what I want to do - get the heat out from under the bonnet.

See my thread at msport97.proboards6.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&n=1&thread=2765

While not so radical as s1ckdrag0ns design, I want to use a Montero Sport Diesel Bonnet Scoop, mounted above the intake plenum, to cool the charge down.

Also have a look at these scoops. They must be there for a reason!!

www.freewebs.com/david_golding/dakar6.JPG

In Australia it regularly gets to 100 degrees in Summer, so anything that can reduce the trapped under-bonnet heat has to be a good thing.

Cheers

Dave

s1ckdrag0ns said:

well i modified the hood alittle bit to help out with that underhood temp, awhile ago.

My filter sits right beside one of the openings, and yes i am running a water bypass valve! with this mod and all of the engine mods. it stays preety cool under the hood. i was driving around for about 2hours yesturday and came home, popped the hood and i was able to keep my hand on the intake plenum with out it burning, or me screaming. its stays nice and cool.

~tony

[s1ckdrag0ns]

thats some pretty sweet hood scoops they have on that rally MS. i know lund makes some pretty decent hood scoops, and i have a buudy over in England, who is checking on the hoods over there that come on the Pajeros. ill get back to you on that. but its not hard to install.

pretty much cut the whole where you want it and, i would fiberglass it to the hood, or some other way. but it all desides on how far you want to go with it.

if you do find out what they used on the rally MS hood, let me know, cause thats pretty hot. i did mine like that because i had a front lip that i was going to do some custom work to so it would fit on the MS, but i came down to far int the front and made it look akward without side skirts and a rear bumper.

im still tryin to find a suitable lip to use and ill let everyone know when i find it.

~TONY

p.s. by the way i cant find the thread about the clear corners, how can i score some of those. what a round about price and shipping if that info is available?