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Post by pinstryper on Dec 13, 2015 20:08:17 GMT -5
Your searching primarily by dimensions?
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Post by ES_97Sport on Dec 14, 2015 19:37:44 GMT -5
Your searching primarily by dimensions? Primarily. The Sebring is supposed to pull between 4000-5000 CFM. The Intrepid is for the 3.5-4L engines in the Eagle - which I'm familiar with so I know that has to pull at least what the Sebring does. I'm not sure about the Intrepid fans. The Contour is a little smaller than our radiator, so there's a 1-2" of slop but the Gen 1 has clearance issues on the lower DR side. Since the Contour can be moved around a little, there are no issues. If the shroud fits EXACTLY the core size then there's might be problems. The reason I'm looking at a Contour alternative - well, reasons - is because that fan setup is getting old and eventually is going to get harder to find. Motorcraft no longer makes them, too, and the China stuff is really getting crappy. Guys are starting to say you can't expect more than 5 years out of an aftermarket setup. Also, I will need to run a big trans cooler on the '99 and I'm looking at ways to do this. The buggy guys run a trans cooler with a separate fan and mount it where its convenient. There's a LOT more 'convenient' on a buggy than our Sports! Anyway, the Cherokee guys run the trans cooler in the front next to the condenser. That either requires a second 'pusher' or a bigger pair of 'pullers' in the back. I thought the Ford Transit dual fan setup would be a good setup for that if it would fit. Still looking for dimensions. Rotate it 180 degrees and cut the tabs off. Edward
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Post by cwic on Jan 2, 2016 11:51:21 GMT -5
How much is this fan and set up going to coset? You can have a custom fan and shroud built for around $650. Clay
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Post by bdmontero on Jan 2, 2016 15:38:13 GMT -5
^^^^ a WHOLE LOT cheaper than that! Total even with coolant and the fan controller it was under 400. Plus it sucks satellites out of the sky. Lol;D
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jan 4, 2016 17:38:41 GMT -5
How much is this fan and set up going to coset? You can have a custom fan and shroud built for around $650. Clay Yea, what BD said! A new Ford Motorcraft Contour fan set and shroud and a new SPAL controller with all the misc wiring and stuff was less than $500, and that was the most expensive way you could possibly go. Not that there aren't good reasons to do a custom shroud and fan(s) sometimes, but ... Our radiator dimensions aren't that bizarre that other manufacturer's fans/shrouds can't be retrofitted. Neither the 3.0L or 3.5L put out all that much heat so pretty much any dual fan setup for a v4/v6 in something relatively heavy will work. I had zero issues with the Contour setup in my '97 weighing in the 6700 GVW range tooling around Moab in 105+ temps. With the A/C on. After years of fighting with the crap that Derale and some of the other aftermarket manufacturers produce, I wouldn't put one on my DD let alone a trail/expedition rig. I really hate to say this, but I trust the cheap Chinese knock-off factory OEM replacement stuff more. The only company that seems to accurately rate their fans is SPAL, and you will pay for their stuff. It is not cheap! I had planned on trying one of their dual fan & shroud setups, but they won't work on their discontinued SPAL controller. So, I'm going to stick with OEM fans from whatever I think will work for the '99. You don't NEED dual fans on a Sport, but I'm paranoid. I've lost the single fan on my 'Bird several times over the years and that SUCKS. At the very least you can limp along on one Contour fan. 90% of the time you probably don't even need all of one fan. I just think the OEM dual fan config is a nice perk and good insurance if you're out in the middle of nowhere. Last time I checked RockAuto had the Contour setup on for about $130. The good one with the heat shield on the fan motor. That's two fans and a complete shroud. Hard to do anything else for that little. Edward
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Post by pinstryper on Jan 4, 2016 22:45:02 GMT -5
Wow, that's easieir than tearing it out of a contour $130?
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jan 5, 2016 16:01:28 GMT -5
Wow, that's easieir than tearing it out of a contour $130? Depends on how much your time is worth. It took me about an hour, hour and a half to pull the first one or two. After I figured out what to do, it didn't take that long for the last one. I spent a lot more time trying to find one that hadn't been damaged in a collision and didn't have so many miles on it that it was trashed and/or worn out. Oh, and finding one where the wiring wasn't so oil soaked or heat-hardened it was useless. Cheap passenger cars are not treated very well by the general public. Pull-a-part yard here usually wants $20-30 for the fan and $5-15 for the harness. Factor in the 2-4+ hours tromping around the yard and an hour of drive time. It'd cost me $300 so I don't have to spend $130. OEM fans are made to last 10-15 years. The Chinese junk is made to last 3-5 years. There IS some justification for getting an OEM assembly. For something like my big Sport that sees 30-40K miles a year, and where at least one fan is running all the time, better quality is worth something. On the new '99 build that's going to be a dedicated trip rig (not a DD), just having dual fans is sufficient IMO. It'll see 10-15K a year at most. Even the cheap Chinese fans will last for many years. In theory anyway. At least for the Contour assembly, the OEM stuff pretty clearly moves more air. KIM, as I said above, I never had any problems with the Dorman or whatever it was wheeling Moab in 100 degree weather. Having oodles of air flow and spending extra to get isn't a benefit if its not really necessary. Edward
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Post by pinstryper on Jan 5, 2016 16:26:52 GMT -5
I understand fully, 20-30 min there, 1-2 walking around after saying hi to them. Luckily I can go when its to ugly for me to stripe. But!! Now I found my new friend Jorge to pull stuff.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jan 5, 2016 19:10:16 GMT -5
Luckily I can go when its to ugly for me to stripe. Yea, I have Sat/Sun and that's pretty much it. Tried hitting some of the lots in southern UT but I have yet to find anything Mitsubishi. Lots of cool old iron, though! Nice! Now that's the way to do it! Edward
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Post by loner6996 on Jul 20, 2016 22:10:11 GMT -5
I think I found a few alternatives to the Ford Contour fans. 2001-06 Chrysler Sebring, Dodge Stratus Dorman 620-350 Mid 90s Intrepid Dorman 620-004 Looking at the 2010ish Ford Transit, too. Edward Did you ever find out anything with this?
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Post by jkdv8 on Jul 20, 2016 22:34:46 GMT -5
HO alt is needed as well with the contour fans. Don't know what those pull. I've always thought if it gets to the point of needing to do this then it's probably time for an engine rebuild. If there isn't any issues with the cooling system then it's the engine with the issue. Much like mentioned in the other post the factory setup is adequate so things like this are just a bandaid. It's basically using an inefficient system to cool an inefficient engine.
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jul 21, 2016 19:38:42 GMT -5
I think I found a few alternatives to the Ford Contour fans. ... Looking at the 2010ish Ford Transit, too. Edward Did you ever find out anything with this? Nope. I've had too many irons in the fire the last few months. My business partner and I signed a lease for 5x the space we had so we were moving offices until last Friday and now were starting a data center build. And playing catchup now that we're into the new space. And now I'm trying to get ready to leave in three weeks for Moab. I'll get back to it but it'll be September/October. Sigh. Edward
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Post by bdmontero on Jul 21, 2016 20:24:33 GMT -5
I highly disagree with that statement JK. There are several advantages with the contour fans. One if your river crossing you can turn them off. Also if there are add ons like an arb bar and lights you need that extra power. Its also extremely efficient with working on the engine too. Easy in and out of the entire assembly. I'm not saying the stock fan isn't sufficient. It is for a stock sport which works for most everyone. I wanted maximum cooling and that's what I have. One fan runs or both do. Just depends. Yes I do agree about the HO alternator. Yes if your car is overheating there is a problem but that doesn't automatically constitute an engine rebuild. It could be 1 of a hundred things.
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Post by loner6996 on Jul 22, 2016 3:37:51 GMT -5
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Post by jkdv8 on Jul 22, 2016 16:33:37 GMT -5
I highly disagree with that statement JK. There are several advantages with the contour fans. One if your river crossing you can turn them off. Also if there are add ons like an arb bar and lights you need that extra power. Its also extremely efficient with working on the engine too. Easy in and out of the entire assembly. I'm not saying the stock fan isn't sufficient. It is for a stock sport which works for most everyone. I wanted maximum cooling and that's what I have. One fan runs or both do. Just depends. Yes I do agree about the HO alternator. Yes if your car is overheating there is a problem but that doesn't automatically constitute an engine rebuild. It could be 1 of a hundred things. Yea I can see the water fording being an issue. However, the bottom of the stock fans are above the max fording depth stated by mitsu. I can see with the snorkel you'd be willing to disregard so that's understandable. Ah yea I forgot about the ARB. They should've put some venting on the bottom of those, below the winch. Without some adequate ventilation it would be impossible to reach peak efficiency and would put more strain on the fans. The air has to come from somewhere. Putting the best fan in the world in the same restricted location is only going to give marginal gains and pulling massive amounts of air from below the fascia you run the risk of sucked up stuff that'll damage the radiator, especially off-road. So unless they are both mounted high enough to pull through the grill, and even then there is only so much that can be pulled through that opening, it is putting undue strain on them and possibly the controller. There is already strain in general just pulling through the radiator and condenser. Just those entertaining the idea need to take into consideration the $400-500 for the fan, controller, and everything. Buying them used runs the risk of them failing. HO alt $300, big 3 $100, and $12 shorter drive belt is quite an investment. It adds more weight, 60-65 amp total?!¿ added draw on the electrical at full tilt which burns more gas, creates more heat, and throws a few more things in the mix to break. Some of those fans tend to pull 60amp for a second at start before settling down to the normal operating current. The engine bays of the cars that these come out of are huge in comparison as well. The air they're sucking in has to go somewhere. It just seems counterproductive and overkill for the average cooling issue unless it's really needed to keep the engine cool, at which point would lead one to believe the engine is just worn out and making more heat than power. Not always the case like you said but you catch my drift. The more they're wheeled, idling and revved while stationary in general, and more so in the heat, the quicker they wear out and the hotter they run. Something to consider that usually isn't considered when just looking at the mileage on one. Other than the ability to turn it off I just don't see it adding that much more of a benefit to offset everything that's involved. Keeping it as simple and efficiently functional as possible is key. I believe an aftermarket or custom built radiator would be the better option as that is what actually pulls the heat out but to each their own. I personally think placing the stock radiator with a separate trans cooler and radiator would do wonders. Slow paced crawling in 4wd heats up the trans fluid more as well as the engine coolant both of which run through the the same radiator. I will say considering the Georgia heat in the summer as well as the typical 80% humidity, I've never had a cooling issue. Mines a gen 2 as well which seem to but a bit more sensitive to the extremes. Humidity in and of itself will stress the cooling system as well as the a/c. Florida heat never seemed to bother it either except for the trans on the highway. A more robust condenser fan wouldn't hurt either. The other post talking about liquid to liquid cooling got me thinking about the tuner guys that use a sprayer on the intercooler that drastically drops temps even when it's only done ever so often. Whether it be just plain water or a water and alcohol solution. However, they say running a washer fluid with a high concentration of alcohol pulls massive amounts of heat out of the system when it evaporates and then you don't have to worry about making mud in the radiator. There is a bunch of do-it-yourself setups. A simple way is tapping the windshield washer fluid and placing a valve that closes off the flow to the windshield. They use a manual one but an automatic or switch operated solenoid would be a better solution. Another option would be a separate washer tank on the opposite side of the bumper. Washer fluid is cheap and easy to make and the setup wouldn't add but like 10-15lbs of weight at fill up. I picked up a dual fan setup from a 97n Dodge Intrepid today. I might have to return it because it's part of the wire harness and I haven't been able to find it anywhere. I did take some pics of it sitting on my radiator in case anyone else might be interested. I think the contour fans both pull the air through the radiator. That one has a puller and a pusher. Something to take note on. Blowing hot air from the engine bay over it isn't going to help much.
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