I got a 97 Montero sport with the Aisin Warner. I'm glad about that!
Sweet! I don't know why I keep thinking you have an '0something. The brain damage.
Ok, THAT makes things simpler.
TRANSMISSION SHIFTERYou don't need to do anything with the transmission, shifter, TCU, etc. unless you want to, except ...
* Transgo 340-HD2 shift improver kits for AW4 and A340 transmissions
Radesigns Products LLC - AccessoriesThis allows for different configurations. I've spoke to a 4WD trans builder here in Denver and Rory from Radesigns and gone through about 300 Pirate, etc. posts - EVERYONE strongly recommends this and to use the 'Towing' configuration for anything over about 32"s. This kit ALSO - and this is VERY important for off-road use - locks the transmission in 1st when its in Lo and doesn't permit it to automatically up-shift to 2nd.
* Transmission cooler
This is at the very top of the list for wheeling the AW4. A REAL cooler. Not the POS wanna-be radiator cooler. You need to keep the heat down in A/Ts. Nothing new or earth shattering about that fact.
Optional stuff ...
* Switch Kits
"...includes two Carling switches. This is used to choose between the factory TCM or manual control from a RADesigns shift controller and to have full control of TC lock, allows auto lock control, manual locking or prevent locking."
This is
used in conjunction with ONE of the two following. This isn't a standalone product. It doesn't turn your stock shifter into a 'manual shifter'. It JUST turns off the TCU so that one of the following can operate in manual shift mode.
* Rail II manual gear selector
Radesigns Products LLC - Rail IIThis is an addition TO your stock shifter. Using the Rail II allows you to retain the stock shifter. When the switch kit above is activated - turning the TCU 'off' - and the factory shifter is placed in D, the Rail II is used to select the forward - individual - gears (1-4). The Rail II is the 'manual' shifter. The stock shifter is only used then to select P, R, N and D.
* Winters Shifter & Kits
Radesigns Productions LLC - Winters Shifter & KitsThis replaces the stock shifter entirely. The Rail II is unnecessary as the Winters Shifter handles both normal 'automatic' shift mode (factory behavior) as well as 'manual' shift mode. The switch kit above is still required to be able to switch between the modes.
Why you would want either:
Full control of all four gears - the reasons are the same for why you'd want a M/T.
Either option expands beyond the shift kit noted above that locks 1st in Lo. Any gear may be selected and there is no chance of the TCU deciding to shift into another gear at the least propitious time.
So, you get 4 guaranteed usable gears vs one.
If you already have a '97/98, you already have a functioning stock shifter.
The big gain with the Winters is the gating. The one thing you get with the Winters is something you don't get with ANY other setup including a M/T; this is an absolutely huge improvement. The winters allows you to go from ANY forward gear directly to Reverse with a slap of the shifter handle. Where this comes in handy is if you're climbing something steep and the vehicle starts going over backwards or the front starts going sideways and going into reverse and popping the gas pedal would reverse that. But, the shift has to be instantly.
Note: Either of the above two options are not 'shift on the fly'. The vehicle must be turned off when switching between 'manual' and 'automatic' shift modes.
TRANSFER CASE SHIFTERThe transfer case shifter only effects 4HI and 4LO. Its not connected in any way to the transmission. Unless the transfer case is changed out for a different BRAND transfer case, nothing need be changed here.
Options:
* Stock Mitsu transfer case
Sticking with this obviously simplifies things in some areas. Everything already works. It also keeps the Mitsu techs happy since its Mitsu.
Downsides are crappy gear ratio(s) and slip yokes and its flipping heavy. Otherwise, its a tank and will last forever.
Note: the crappy ratio becomes even crappier after a SAS on 35"s.
* New Process (NP) transfer case swap
Complicates things to an extent but can simplify several important things when doing a SAS (when used in conjunction with a doubler). Available Slip Yoke Eliminators (SYE), good starting gear ratio with 4:1 available, lighter, more common than dirt and cheap, front output is already a fixed yoke. Downsides are it requires changing the A/T output shaft to a '97-01 Cherokee shaft, changing the adapter housing to a '89-'01 Cherokee housing, adapting the output speed sensor wiring to the Jeep sensor.
* Gear 'doubler' or crawl box
Complicates things by adding a second 'transfer case shifter'. That's it. Nothing else.
Downsides: none. EVEN if you keep 2.72 in the transfer case, a 2-speed 'transfer case' is orders of magnitude in improvement over a single speed transfer case. Benefits are a second gear ratio.
In Re: a SAS. Two things need to be resolved and its FAR better to resolve them at conversion time than latter.
1) The front and rear slip yokes on the Mitsubishi transfer case need to be eliminated. While its possible to do a home-brew elimination, even in the relatively short term (couple years) it doesn't work. Its expensive and that's money that could easily cover doing the job right in the first place. THIS MUST BE ADDRESSED - the front yoke doesn't have enough travel for even the stock Ford radius arms so a slip drive shaft must be used. You can't do both.
2) The rear cross member - the one that supports the torsion bars - interferes with the drive shaft when the rear axle articulates. You can notch the member to a point, but not enough. Removing the member entirely would be a very, VERY bad idea. The stiffening that that member adds to the chassis is necessary. In fact, adding rock skids adds adds enough stiffening to the chassis to prevent body mount breakage. Which, IMHO, makes a good set of skids necessary, too.
The simplest solution to both problems is to simply replace the transfer case and add a doubler or crawl box. The NP231 has a wide variety of inexpensive SYEs - and remember you only need to do the rear. The addition of a doubler or crawl box extends the rear output far enough back that the drive shaft is no longer capable of hitting the cross member even in an unmodified state.
The ONLY drawback to this solution is cost. Primarily in the SYE as I recommend using the Terra Ultra-short kit that has the electronic sender for the speedo with the Dakota SGI so you have an effectively stock speedometer setup. Jeep short snout NP231s with the 6 planetary gears are dirt cheap out of the salvage yards - $250-300. Duffy sells both the Gen 1 and Gen 2 'doubler' or crawl box for $500 and all the parts necessary for the kit can be bought from a transmission shop used for less than $100. I recommend the Gen 2 kit for simplicity. You can go all kids of directions with shifters since the t-cases are cable operated. The Montero guys have used OEM shifters out of the salvage yards from other vehicles for a few $$$s or you can build your own.
I realize that this is about $2000 so its a major expenditure, but it the one part of my SAS that caused unending headaches until I converted to the NP231 and Duffy's doubler. If I COULD have done this when the SAS was done initially, it would have saved me a lot of sleepless nights and a lot of money on band-aids. I went though three or four rear yokes and two iterations of the front yoke/drive shaft before the NP setup. Its a miracle I didn't end up stranded somewhere in CO or UT. A testament to unending constant maintenance and rebuilding.
If you want I can make a list of everything needed here.
Totally understand that.
As was/am I. For several reasons. I log 30-35K miles a year on my big Sport in traffic in a state where half the population is drunk or drugged up. And I live in the middle of a zoo full of unpredictable animals - elk, deer, moose. You never know what will happen at any given time. Parts can't just fail and the vehicle has to be ABSOLUTELY predictable. No different than what you'd expect from a production vehicle.
I usually wheel in a single vehicle group - yea, I know, you don't have to tell me how bright that is.
When we go out to southern UT, we're not on the high traffic trails. In fact, its uncommon to see a vehicle let alone several. And, we're anywhere from 50-70 to several hundred miles from pavement and other people. There IS no "oh, I'll just walk out" or "I'll just call for a tow". I've had my X and step kids, my mom, friends, etc. and I take their well being very seriously and understand the responsibility and risks. I HAVE to have something that is absolutely dependable and safe.
And, like I said, I DD my Sport and 50 miles a day is on the highway doing 70-75 MPH. I KNOW there are people HERE in town that feel comfortable driving a vehicle that's just barely legal and rattles, shakes, squeaks and may or may not even make it from one block to the next, but that's not me. I'm old and spoiled and I like quiet and smooth and cushy.
I don't like hard to handle, wandering, vibrations, etc. I'm too old to deal with that crap anymore.
There's a reason my big Sport is designed the way it is and its because of the above requirements. That's why I don't run Heim joints except for the single end on the track bar. That's why I run the Ford stock radius arm suspension. That's why ALL my steering is DOT certified parts. In fact, excepting the Heim, everything on the SAS is 100% street legal. Heim joints are legal in CO and UT, but are frowned upon.
Which is why I only have one where its not possible to do anything else.
That is VERY important if you get pulled over or into an collision. I've had the rare cop pull me over and try to pull the "that's modified and not street legal!" spiel. It is EXTRAORDINARILY satisfying to be able to point out that, no, in fact this vehicle IS legal.
The only things that would make mine safer as it stand now, is 17" rims with 35"s instead of the 15" rims. Less sidewall would make it more stable at high speeds in hard braking conditions. I mean high speed - 50-55+. And, more stable loaded in the corners doing 70-75 MPH. And an adjustable brake proportioning valve to tweak the brakes to better match things with the GM/Ford calipers. Personally, I LIKE them just the way they are as I drive with 500-600 lbs in the cargo area all the time, but totally unloaded the backs will lock if you slam them on in the rain. $140 for a Wilwood 4-way and $50 for line and the time to bend them up would take care of that.
Otherwise, it steers straight as an arrow with or without hands on the wheel. Brakes dead straight. There are NO vibrations - EVER - under ANY conditions except in 4HI on the street. I still don't have my angle on the front drive shaft quite right so its irritating at 50-55 MPH.
Off road its as smooth as glass.
I don't know which brand and model axle for the front to look for exactly. I know what I've read from the Montero guys, but never paid tons of attention because I always get one built from Currie or Dynatrac. What I DO know is what the specs need to be as far as width and such. Needs to be a HP, full width so you can cut it down, 1/2" tube wall and the knuckles need to be high steer capable.
There is a site I found on Google that describes the Dana 44 in intricate, mind numbing detail. They have tons of pics and go over all the models. That's where I'd start.
My outers are GM 1/2 ton basically. Jeep J10 truck from the early '70s. The short (outer) shafts are Ford, the inners are custom. I'd have to look up who they're from since I just had new CM shafts made last spring.
Ok. There are a lot of ways to skin this. I have the pinion rotated at an insane angle because that was necessary for the stock t-case when the SAS was done. The DS ends up being like 18". Completely stupid.
So, THAT is where I came from originally. When I did the t-case and doubler, that gave me another 20" of DS length, so now I have a total of about 38"ish.
I retained the pinon angle because turning the pinion down to something more 'normal' and running a single piece DS would make my DS vulnerable to damage as it would then be hanging under the vehicle below the radius arms. You probably read my post about ripping off the vibration damper on the t-case. A flat belly is super important and in fact AFTER I did my 2-piece and posted about that I noticed guys on Pirate started doing the same thing on their buggies.
Coincidence? Hmmmmm.
SO, this one is up to you. A single piece DS with a more 'sane' pinion angle or a two piece with a more 'radical' angle. If you do the NP231/doubler, you can do a single piece drive shaft. However, you will STILL have to rotate the housing to get the correct angle. A CV drive shaft - which you will want and need - requires that the pinion/u-joint point directly at the CV. How much will be the question. There's too much distance to do dual u-joints and the angle is off at the t-case, so ....
A single piece DS will be cheaper. Barely. My 2-piece runs about $500. A 1-piece is about $400. Engineering-wise, its a tab welded to the transmission cross member to support the carrier bearing on the split DS. Not really rocket science.
Any DS shop that does 4WD off-road stuff will be very familiar with Spicer CVs and split drive shafts.
Rotating involves cutting the weld around the tube and knuckle, rotating the knuckle and welding it back to the tube. You need a TIG for that and whoever does it needs to get both sides the same, of course.
Tom, my machinist, used a table band saw to cut the tubes to length. If you can't find a 4x shop, look for speed shops that narrow axles for racing. They do this ALL the time for tubbed drag cars.
Danny said 6 degrees I think. Mine is between 6-8 degrees and that works good. You can cross check this on Pirate to see if any of them have any new opinions but I haven't seen anything recently. Still I recommend checking. I don't keep track very closely.
A full width axle will be WAY too wide on the DR side. In order to get a good straight shot at the t-case, the pumpkin has to come over a good bit. I can get you measurements on that. I also have shaft measurements as well.
For the Ford radius arms, the wedges need to be welded to the tubes. Those are the metal pieces that are enclosed inside the radius arm bushings.
Something to look at before you commit to a configuration is the Land Cruiser and Defender radius arm setups. Ford arms are short. Danny did extended arms. I THINK his are about 8-10 inches longer than mine but I'd check. That will give you more articulation in the front than I have, BUT, you will need the t-case/doubler with a SYE and slip drive shaft to make that work. The front DS with the stock t-case WILL NOT work - the DS can't be made long enough to take advantage of the travel so you'd end up with limiting straps just as short as mine.
I LIKE the Ford arms but Danny's definitely has more travel. I THINK the Defender and LC arms are about 8-10 inches longer than the Ford arms so that's why I'm mentioning it. If I can't do a 3-link front, that's where I'm going to start looking. In fact, I'll talk to the Mitsu tech Thurs and ask. He has a truggy, three LCs and he's building a 4-Runner. He'll know.
Danny did the ABS delete. Simply, it requires pulling the ABS crud, getting or bending new lines under the hood and installing the NON-ABS proportioning valve. Pull out the ABS wiring if you want. And, pull the ABS light bulb in the dash. I frigg'n HATE ABS with a passion so I count it no loss.
I THINK Danny put a separate valve on the rear line to balance out the calipers. Don't know. I think I forgot to ask him.
After doing tons of reading, I found that that was not recommended. Only one valve per system. So, MY evil plan is to use the Wilwood 4-way adjustable valve and replace the stock valve. I have every brake tool known to man and I've done lines before so bending a couple lines isn't a big deal. Its just the ones in the engine bay anyway. AND you'll need to do new lines to the front calipers anyway or modify what's there. Its a LOT easier to just bend new lines. Took me 1/2 an hour to completely replace the PS one last fall.
I wouldn't worry about ABS. I would STRONGLY recommend going with 17"s as that will do more for overall safety than ABS every would.
Something else I forgot, too. I've widened the wheel base both through the axle itself and by changing wheel off set. It would be better to do this in the axle, but the rim off set thing was unintentional. I got my rims for $125 a rim and they were EXACTLY what I wanted except the guy that originally ordered them and didn't pick them up had something like a 3/4" off-set difference than what I wanted. So, besides widening the axle back when, I have another 1.5" of width in rim. It makes a HUGE, HUGE difference in stability.
That is a great attitude!! 'Cause if it isn't done right you'll end up with a door stop.
A way back story. Danny isn't the second person to do a SAS on a Sport. A guy back east was. He did his just shortly after I did mine. He refused to listen to what I told him. Claimed I spent money foolishly and could have done it for a fraction of the cost with twisties and bailing wire. One of the guys on the Wire rode in it shortly after it was 'built'. He said top speed was about 40 MPH before it was uncontrollable and it was absolutely un-driveable off road. It was so unstable it was dangerous to wheel on ANYTHING. No one knows what happened. The guy and vehicle disappeared shortly thereafter. Someone said they thought it went to the crusher. I'm not tooting my own horn, 'cause God knows I've made my own share of mistakes and I'm not all-knowing, but not doing it right literally could result in a vehicle that's just plain un-driveable. Not anywhere you want to end up, I know.
Ok. Clarification. There's 'lift' and there's just the height you get from putting the axles underneath a vehicle that didn't come with a solid axle in the front. Their not really the same thing, but they kinda are.
The spring-over in the rear gets you high enough to fit the front axle. That's all. No travel, just room to put it underneath. On my Currie - stock tube - D44, that was 6". So, your Sport will sit 6" higher JUST with that. This isn't really 'lift' in my mind.
Then there's how much you want to go up from there. This is how much room you need to clear the oil pan with the steering and how much upward travel room you want. I had between 4-5" of upward travel. Not incredible, I know, but I didn't want any more height than that. I now have another 1.5". Total clearance from the center bottom of the frame rails is 25". Exactly.
This is pretty much what it has to be. So, what you're REALLY looking at is about 10". This isn't counting the height from the bigger tires. This is JUST suspension.
The issue here is the distance from the axle to the frame in the front. The frame rails are not as tall as would be for a vehicle that was designed with a solid axle so there isn't as much room between the axle and frame as would be normally. It is what it is.
Something to consider for stability is looking at going with 33"s and a 1" body lift. Physical height-wise this is a wash, but this will lower CG and increase stability but a good bit both on and off road. Actually, 'a good bit' isn't quite right. It will be by a significant amount.
Honestly, 1" under the diffs and tubes isn't going to make a significant difference off road. You will have enough clearance under the chassis that there won't be a hell of a lot to hit.
I run the ARB nodular iron covers so I could care less if I clip a rock. I can skid off an axle pretty much with impunity.
Danny
was right. The Dynatrac D44 is just as strong as a Ford 9" now as that's the new JK setup. However, if you're looking for one in the salvage yards, look for a Ford.
5.13s on 35"s are as far as you want to go. 5.38s in an A/T would be ridiculously stupid low.
In fact, 4.90s on 33"s would probably be just fine. So, you MIGHT want to seriously consider that since you can get 4.90s for the Mitsu axles or find a '00+ Limited like my '03 in the salvage yard with 4.90s already in it.
KIM, that what ever you decide on, if you're not putting ARBs in initially, that they're available. Sucks to get everything build and then have to replace an axle because you can't get a locker for it.
I wouldn't stress out over strength. Don't let anyone scare you into more than you need. Up to 35"s a built D44 is plenty strong. If I haven't proven anything else, I've proven that. My Currie had 500K miles on it and I never managed to break anything. Fully locked out in Moab is the place to do it if its going to happen.
I think, based on the Montero guys, even the Mitsu axle you have would be fine. The SR Montero came with 4.90s, BTW.
Now, the drawback of using the stock axle is you don't get to widen it.
That is something you DEFINITELY have to do for stability. Your option there is to run wheel spacers in the back. Personally, I don't like them and would never run them but that's my opinion. I don't THINK you'd have any issues, but ....
Another thing to consider: IF you did the t-case/doubler and a single piece DS you could get away with running a standard pinion D44 in the front. That would maybe make it easier to get a front axle. Modifications costs wouldn't be any different.
Any crawling of any kind will benefit greatly from the t-case/doubler. Its hard to explain unless you've driven a 2/3-speed t-case with low gearing. I use mine on fire roads, anything that's tippy whether I'm in 4WD or 2WD. The Sport is a heavy vehicle and raising it up as much as we have to makes it top heavy. I would go so far as to say this is actually a safety feature.
I would trust mine to make it to Alaska and back easy. I do almost 3000 miles when we go out to Moab, so ....
I certainly rather drive my big Sport to AK than either of my stock ones because it steers better than stock and certainly rides a lot plusher than any '97-99 except my new '99 Limited. The height makes for an awesome touring vehicle! That's something my X and my mom love.
Coil overs can be done. Danny runs them. I will on the new one. Not a big deal.
Steering is dirt simple. GM 1 ton ends with 1.5" DOM. Just what the buggy guys run. I didn't have any problems with the 3/4 ton stuff but the joints are China crap now.
Edward