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Post by 91clipseDOHC on Apr 12, 2013 10:20:56 GMT -5
You should see my MS when I first got it! The interior was basically trashed! It was really bad! I just cleaned it up the seats a bit and put on some seat covers and has to get all new floor mats. My radio didn't work either, was leaking tons of oil, no gauge bulbs were working, windows didn't roll down, cigaret burns on the door panels and a lot more but I got it for free and runs and drive great so I can't complain lol I'm glad I'm not the only one! I really enjoy taking something like that and turning it into something beautiful. It's a very rewarding feeling. The cam seals that are most often mentioned are the o-rings in the rear. They fail pretty regularly but are inexpensive and easy to replace. With all the work you're doing, probably a good idea to just do these as well. The fronts don't fail as often but since you will have the timing belt off, might be a good time to do them as well. Awesome thanks! I just got off the phone with the dealership and they have both front seals and rear o-rings in stock. $14 or $15 each for the seal and $4 for the o-ring. Inflated prices but they have them in stock so I will be picking them up! Yes! Still on schedule!
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Post by 91clipseDOHC on Apr 12, 2013 18:25:34 GMT -5
T minus 7 days! So today I spent most of the time working on the valve covers and cam seals. My wife went to the dealership and picked up the cam seals and o-rings. $45 just for those 4 little parts. While she was doing that I removed both of the valve covers, cleaned them, and removed the old gaskets. I also removed the spark plus, which were Denso Iridiums. The three on the passenger side were clean but all three on the drivers side were soaked in oil. Once my wife got back with the cam seals I installed both of the rear o-rings, the old ones were very brittle and broke off. Then I removed the tensioner and popped off the timing belt. Unfortunately I only had enough time to install the passenger side front cam seal and valve cover before work. Just so you guys know I am very limited on time, I only have about 4 hours a day to work on this because I am working 10 days straight, 10 hours a day. My next day off is the day I am leaving to Tucson, towing my eclipse with the Montero. Time is ticking. Also my last order of parts came in so I have everything to put it back together now. I got a call from Uhaul that the hitch had arrived but was damaged so they ordered another one, should be here by Monday or Tuesday. Here is what I have left to do: - Install the drivers side front cam gear
- Install the drivers side valve cover
- Install spark plugs and wires
- Remove old water pump and remaining timing belt components
- Clean the front of the engine
- Install the new water pump and timing belt components
- Clean the intake manifold and throttle body/install the new idle air valve
- Put the rest of the engine bay back together/new coolant
- Drain and flush the transmission and install the new trans filter
- Install the new fuel filter
- Install the trailer hitch and wire the lights
- Get the truck insured, inspected, and registered.
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Post by monty98 on Apr 12, 2013 18:32:04 GMT -5
What kind of connector does your trailer use? You're going to need a tail light/turn signal converter if its four pin and/or if your trailer lights have both brake and turn signal in one bulb. Only because the sport has different lights for brake and turn versus American vehicles that have mostly the same light for brake and turn signal.
Just a thought if you hadn't thought of it yet. Got mine from fleet farm for about $5 a few years ago.
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Post by 91clipseDOHC on Apr 12, 2013 18:47:30 GMT -5
What kind of connector does your trailer use? You're going to need a tail light/turn signal converter if its four pin and/or if your trailer lights have both brake and turn signal in one bulb. Only because the sport has different lights for brake and turn versus American vehicles that have mostly the same light for brake and turn signal. Just a thought if you hadn't thought of it yet. Got mine from fleet farm for about $5 a few years ago. I will be renting a tow dolly from Uhaul. I bought their wiring harness, I assume it will work correctly. Ok this is what I ordered, so it should work: U-Haul 4-Way Flat (tow vehicle side) wiring with taillight adapter converts foreign and domestic vehicles with separate turn and stoplights to standard trailer taillight wiring and plugs directly into any U-Haul trailer.
For all 3-wire lighting systems (brake and turn signal on separate circuit) Built-in green LED test lights make it a snap to verify proper installation and assist in diagnosing any trailer lighting difficulties Wiring connectors included Bonded and prelabeled wires for clean and easy installation Easy to understand instructions are right on the package Part number: 14486
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Post by bdmontero on Apr 12, 2013 19:56:55 GMT -5
Just make sure to replace spark plug tube seals!!!! Also look at other posts about valve cover gaskets. They can be a MAJOR PITA to keep from leaking if not done right.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using proboards
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Post by 91clipseDOHC on Apr 12, 2013 20:17:10 GMT -5
Just make sure to replace spark plug tube seals!!!! Also look at other posts about valve cover gaskets. They can be a MAJOR PITA to keep from leaking if not done right. Sent from my DROID RAZR using proboards I replaced those, they came as part of the FelPro valve cover gasket kit. I also added some RTV around all the bolt holes.
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Post by 91clipseDOHC on Apr 13, 2013 15:08:13 GMT -5
T minus 6 days!
Today was a short day, but I got a lot done just the same. I installed the drivers side front cam seal and valve cover, removed the old water pump, installed the new one, and installed the timing belt, and covers. I want to install the spark plugs but I can't find the torque specs anywhere. I downloaded the FSM - can't find them there. Read the DIY - cant find them there. Searched the forum - can't find it there. Anyone know the torque specs for the spark plugs?!?!
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Post by bdmontero on Apr 13, 2013 15:35:34 GMT -5
I think its 12-14 ft lbs
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Post by 91clipseDOHC on Apr 13, 2013 16:21:59 GMT -5
Ok thanks. Is there anyway you can verify it or can anyone else confirm it?
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Post by bdmontero on Apr 13, 2013 16:28:56 GMT -5
Auto zone.com has a ALLDATA system that could.
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Post by bdmontero on Apr 13, 2013 16:39:00 GMT -5
10mm gasketed 8 to 12 Ft/Lbs 8 to 12 Ft/Lbs 12mm gasketed 10 to 18 Ft/Lbs 10 to 18 Ft/Lbs 14mm gasketed 26 to 30 Ft/Lbs 18 to 28 Ft/Lbs 18mm gasketed 32 to 38 Ft/Lbs 28 to 34 Ft/Lbs 14mm tapered seat 7 to 15 Ft/Lbs 7 to 15 Ft/Lbs 18mm tapered seat 15 to 20 Ft/Lbs 15 to 20 Ft/Lbs -------------------------------------------------- Cast iron head. Aluminum head
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Post by 91clipseDOHC on Apr 13, 2013 17:00:05 GMT -5
10mm gasketed 8 to 12 Ft/Lbs 8 to 12 Ft/Lbs 12mm gasketed 10 to 18 Ft/Lbs 10 to 18 Ft/Lbs 14mm gasketed 26 to 30 Ft/Lbs 18 to 28 Ft/Lbs 18mm gasketed 32 to 38 Ft/Lbs 28 to 34 Ft/Lbs 14mm tapered seat 7 to 15 Ft/Lbs 7 to 15 Ft/Lbs 18mm tapered seat 15 to 20 Ft/Lbs 15 to 20 Ft/Lbs -------------------------------------------------- Cast iron head. Aluminum head The spark plugs are 14mm threads. I assume gasketed. The heads are aluminum, right? So that's 18-28 ft/lbs?
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Post by monty98 on Apr 13, 2013 19:59:04 GMT -5
Yea wow, sorry I went through both pdf manuals I have, and NOTHING on spark plug torque?! I guess I never really paid attention to it, just always tightened spark plugs to a reasonable tightness, not over tight, not loose. They have a small crush washer on them that creates the seal and I was taught not to over tighten otherwise it would be impossible to get off or possibly strip the threads in the aluminum head.
huh..
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Post by 91clipseDOHC on Apr 13, 2013 21:18:26 GMT -5
Yea wow, sorry I went through both pdf manuals I have, and NOTHING on spark plug torque?! I guess I never really paid attention to it, just always tightened spark plugs to a reasonable tightness, not over tight, not loose. They have a small crush washer on them that creates the seal and I was taught not to over tighten otherwise it would be impossible to get off or possibly strip the threads in the aluminum head. huh.. Yeah that blows my mind. It was funny though because searching the forum everyone that asked that question was told either read the DIY or download the FSM and its not in either place. So here is my plan for the remaining days before the race: Sunday, bolt the rest of the engine back together (after cleaning all the parts of course) and install the new IAV and fuel filter. Should run at this point. Get it insured and start driving it to get the monitors ready for the state inspection. Monday, transmission flush and filter change. Install the tow hitch. Tuesday, spend some time getting my eclipse ready for the race Wednesday, get the Montero inspected, and registered and get any last minute details. Thursday, relax and enjoy!!! Friday, the real test, tow my eclipse to Tucson!
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Post by 91clipseDOHC on Apr 14, 2013 19:20:06 GMT -5
T minus 5 days!
So I've got good news and bad news. The good news is that I got everything cleaned and put back together and it started right up. The bad news that there was still smoke coming up behind the passnger side head/valve cover from the exhaust pipe, in the same spot as before. I assume this is an oil leak. I will verify for sure tomorrow. Also it was leaking some coolant from the upper radiator hose, easy fix. Lastly the 4-wheel drive light was flashing. It wasn't doing that before. I put it in 4 high and I felt it go in and the light went to a solid light. I moved it back to 2 wheel drive and the light started flashing again. Any ideas? I'm going to do some research on that now. I hope it's nothing major.
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