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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jan 11, 2016 21:08:33 GMT -5
Does the old bolt tighten down. Are they the same thread, pitch, etc. metric not standard.... The old bolt does exactly what the new one does, tightens down to about 100ft-lbs then starts free turning so I'd imagine it gets about 80~90% of the in before it acts up and yes they are the same thread and as far as I'm aware both are metric. Put some locktite on it, if it torques up, drive it like you stole it. Yeah my dad recommended the use of locktite, but I was wondering if I could take a hacksaw to this bolt and cut away the length instead of using a bigger washer or perhaps a combination of both?
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Post by bdmontero on Jan 11, 2016 21:21:03 GMT -5
Pinstryper NO! lol lol that's an awesome reply though. Lol lol it all comes down to pressure what kind of shape the threads are in. Take in ALL factors. Vibration ( giggidi) pressure on the threads, belts pulling on it, the pressure from being torqued down also, heat from the motor, stress on the balancer from spinning xxxxxxxx times a mile etc. Heck even bumps from the road could cause that thing to make you instantly regret trying it out. I'm not trying to scare you but this is coming from a mechanical engineer(me) and Ed who has waaaaay more experience than all of us put together.
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by jkdv8 on Jan 11, 2016 21:34:46 GMT -5
Is there anything in the crank. Is it possible water got in and froze. If the original bolt is doing the same something isn't right. There is always JB weld enough of that you wouldn't have to worry about it backing out or having to change the belt again
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jan 11, 2016 22:24:35 GMT -5
Pinstryper NO! lol lol that's an awesome reply though. Lol lol it all comes down to pressure what kind of shape the threads are in. Take in ALL factors. Vibration ( giggidi) pressure on the threads, belts pulling on it, the pressure from being torqued down also, heat from the motor, stress on the balancer from spinning xxxxxxxx times a mile etc. Heck even bumps from the road could cause that thing to make you instantly regret trying it out. I'm not trying to scare you but this is coming from a mechanical engineer(me) and Ed who has waaaaay more experience than all of us put together. Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards ._. Well carp, what do you think I should do? My triple bypass which includes but is not limited to cutting the bad part of the bolt away, adding another washer(if needed), and using locktite won't work? I just don't have the resources to do this any proper way. I mean I can afford to get another bolt & washer or two but pulling the motor is just going to be a hard order to fill let alone having a shop do the required proper fixes. Edit: I apologize if I came off a bit rude, this was not my intention. I'm just a bit frustrated at the situation.
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Post by bdmontero on Jan 11, 2016 22:30:24 GMT -5
I feel you. I've been in your shoes before sometimes things have to be done. Is there anyway you could ask a family member for some $ or put it on a card?
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jan 11, 2016 22:39:03 GMT -5
I feel you. I've been in your shoes before sometimes things have to be done. Is there anyway you could ask a family member for some $ or put it on a card? Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards I could probably ask my family for up to like $200 dollars and as for a credit card I don't own one. To be frank I have like $300 cash and $150 in walmart gift cards to my name. $130 is my required gas money for the trip to Florida and the cards are essentially for food until I get a job. Starting your life over can be rough.
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Post by bdmontero on Jan 11, 2016 22:45:57 GMT -5
I wonder if you could run a tap into the threads on that crank and recut it just enough to get a new bolt to grab?
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by pinstryper on Jan 11, 2016 22:58:10 GMT -5
Cranks are hardened steel, effectivly case hardened. Been there,done that. Seems to me the bolt is bottoming out. Hence the extra washer idea. Adding locktite won't hurt either. Now running a bottoming tap would not hurt, but you have to know when to say when.
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jan 11, 2016 23:13:45 GMT -5
I wonder if you could run a tap into the threads on that crank and recut it just enough to get a new bolt to grab? Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards Never ran a tap before but there's a first for everything right? Cranks are hardened steel, effectivly case hardened. Been there,done that. Seems to me the bolt is bottoming out. Hence the extra washer idea. Adding locktite won't hurt either. Now running a bottoming tap would not hurt, but you have to know when to say when. What if I were to cut away the bad part of the bolt would that essentially achieve the same thing as using an extra washer with the added benefit of not having to order another bolt?
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jocks
Junior Member
Posts: 28
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Post by jocks on Jan 12, 2016 6:16:10 GMT -5
I would check theirs nothing in the hole before anything. If theirs oil or any kind of liquid in their it will act like a hydraulic press, it will cause the bolt to mushroom out. Which is what looks like what your bolts doing. I originally thought the dealership could have given you the 3.5l bolt but if your original bolt is doing the same thing, it doesn't make sense. The 3.5l bolt is longer and will bottom out before it mates with the HB and crank nose.
Theirs a little gap in front of the car under the radiator you can peek though to see the crank threads or use an inspection mirror. If you test fit it without the HB it will snug up with just the washer on. First things first though, check the hole and threads.
Heli-coil requires you to drill and tap new thread for it. Your best bet "if" the threads are damaged is to use a thread chaser. If you have no choice use a tap and loctite bearing fit. Worse case, have the HB welded to the crank and hope the front seal doesn't fail somewhere down the road.
Here in Australia once the crank gets destroyed we pull the short blocks from a Mitsu Magna/Verada, theirs thousands of them in junk yards and its just the easier option since the engine has to come out to repair crank anyway.
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Post by bdmontero on Jan 12, 2016 8:06:15 GMT -5
If you weld that HB on crooked or out of alignment AT ALL its bad juju. I'd try the washer before that.
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by pinstryper on Jan 12, 2016 9:22:03 GMT -5
Get a new bolt 1st. If those leading threads are damaged, your just asking for more trouble.
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Post by pinstryper on Jan 12, 2016 9:28:13 GMT -5
If you try a tap, make sure its a bottoming tap. I repeat bottoming tap. To bad your not closer to one of us, cause this could get ugly real quick. Plus a bottoming tap that size will be. 50-100$ from starrett.?
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jan 12, 2016 16:52:30 GMT -5
I would check theirs nothing in the hole before anything. If theirs oil or any kind of liquid in their it will act like a hydraulic press, it will cause the bolt to mushroom out. Which is what looks like what your bolts doing. I originally thought the dealership could have given you the 3.5l bolt but if your original bolt is doing the same thing, it doesn't make sense. The 3.5l bolt is longer and will bottom out before it mates with the HB and crank nose. Theirs a little gap in front of the car under the radiator you can peek though to see the crank threads or use an inspection mirror. If you test fit it without the HB it will snug up with just the washer on. First things first though, check the hole and threads. Heli-coil requires you to drill and tap new thread for it. Your best bet "if" the threads are damaged is to use a thread chaser. If you have no choice use a tap and loctite bearing fit. Worse case, have the HB welded to the crank and hope the front seal doesn't fail somewhere down the road. Here in Australia once the crank gets destroyed we pull the short blocks from a Mitsu Magna/Verada, theirs thousands of them in junk yards and its just the easier option since the engine has to come out to repair crank anyway. I have always been told to put oil on the crankshaft pulley bolt before putting it back in, Is this a bad thing to do? Get a new bolt 1st. If those leading threads are damaged, your just asking for more trouble. If you try a tap, make sure its a bottoming tap. I repeat bottoming tap. To bad your not closer to one of us, cause this could get ugly real quick. Plus a bottoming tap that size will be. 50-100$ from starrett.? Alright so I went and cleaned out the crank snout as best I could and took a few pictures showing what I found. The picture of the threads in the snout shows that some threads are missing/damaged, the one of my finger shows how dirty they were, and the the other one shows the depth of the snout (40mm/4cm) as well as the new and old bolts/washers (top=new/bottom=old). The bolts w/washers both have a little bit over 40mm of length meaning it's they were both likely bottoming out a hair.
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jan 12, 2016 19:30:13 GMT -5
I done goofed and forgot I have another engine laying at my dads house, the guy that sold it to me for $50 said there was something wrong inside the crankcase something like scorched rod bearings or something like that but worth looking at whether or not the crankshaft itself is good. Either way I need to remove the engine to do anything properly so looks like I need to be towed a couple of hours away to my dads house.
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