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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jan 11, 2016 16:36:43 GMT -5
As the title says at about 100ft-lbs the bolt just starts free turning. I just went and picked up a brand new bolt and washer from the dealership not even two hours ago. I backed the bolt out of the crankshaft and cleaned it up so I could see the threads and a few of the threads are shredded.  |
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jan 11, 2016 16:40:06 GMT -5
As the title says at about 100ft-lbs the bolt just starts free turning. I just went and picked up a brand new bolt and washer from the dealership not even two hours ago. I backed the bolt out of the crankshaft and cleaned it up so I could see the threads and a few of the threads are shredded. That does NOT sound good.  Can you snap a pic of the bolt you took out and post it? I hate to even suggest this, but it sounds like the threads in the crank snout are stripped. Edward |
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jan 11, 2016 16:49:28 GMT -5
Well really only one thread was shredded, but a few of the threads towards the bottom have kind of dulled/flattened out. Edit: Would a helicoil fix the threads in the crank snout? Obviously going to get a new bolt.  Attachments:
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jan 11, 2016 18:43:19 GMT -5
Well really only one thread was shredded, but a few of the threads towards the bottom have kind of dulled/flattened out. Edit: Would a helicoil fix the threads in the crank snout? Obviously going to get a new bolt. That bolt is striped. Yes, a helicoil would probably work fine. Except ... you'll need to drill and tap the snout for the helicoil. I don't know of any practical way to do this with the crank in the vehicle. The snout needs to be drilled and taped exactly inline with the center line of the crank. Exactly as it is normally. You can't do this free-hand. If you drill (or tap) it out of line, when the bolt is tightened down it will put pressure on the head and eventually the bolt will fail. When that happens, the HB comes off and that's very high on the list of stuff you never want to have happen.  Edward |
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Post by bdmontero on Jan 11, 2016 18:45:10 GMT -5
That SUCKS!!!! I'm sorry about that man. I hope its possible to fix.
Sent from my SM-N900V using proboards
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jan 11, 2016 18:56:35 GMT -5
Well really only one thread was shredded, but a few of the threads towards the bottom have kind of dulled/flattened out. Edit: Would a helicoil fix the threads in the crank snout? Obviously going to get a new bolt. That bolt is striped. Yes, a helicoil would probably work fine. Except ... you'll need to drill and tap the snout for the helicoil. I don't know of any practical way to do this with the crank in the vehicle. The snout needs to be drilled and taped exactly inline with the center line of the crank. Exactly as it is normally. You can't do this free-hand. If you drill (or tap) it out of line, when the bolt is tightened down it will put pressure on the head and eventually the bolt will fail. When that happens, the HB comes off and that's very high on the list of stuff you never want to have happen. Edward What I don't understand is how the bolt can free turn unless the threads on the bolt are too short and the bolt is too long, I mean if it can thread 90% of the way in just fine then starts free turning that seems a bit odd to me. |
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jan 11, 2016 18:57:36 GMT -5
That SUCKS!!!! I'm sorry about that man. I hope its possible to fix. My thoughts, also. The last time I had to deal with this personally was with a buddie's vehicle MANY years ago. Basically, we were told it was easier and cheaper to replace the crank. I think they wanted something like $150 25 years ago to drill and tap and a crank was $75. Since you had to pull the crank anyway, at that point you just spent $75 and put the new crank in and moved on. This is one of those that sucks the fun out of your whole month. Edward |
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Post by ES_97Sport on Jan 11, 2016 19:07:00 GMT -5
... What I don't understand is how the bolt can free turn unless the threads on the bolt are too short and the bolt is too long, I mean if it can thread 90% of the way in just fine then starts free turning that seems a bit odd to me. Every thread up to the last five next to the head are striped. That bolt is shot. What you're seeing is the result of the threads in the snout being striped. It isn't that they're completely gone, there isn't enough left for the bolt to properly engage. When you start tightening the bolt, what's left isn't strong enough to hold and it just lets go. In other words, you have about 1/2 the contact area of the the female thread left in the snout. When you apply pressure, it strips 1/2 the contact area of the male thread away because there isn't enough thread left. Bolt turns freely. Look at the 8th thread from the left. You're seeing what's left of what I'm talking about with the male thread. ninestar: Aren't you the one that posted the pic with the DIY made-up washer on the crank bolt? Edward |
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Post by dclambertt on Jan 11, 2016 19:16:01 GMT -5
That is a total bummer Nine.  |
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jan 11, 2016 19:49:53 GMT -5
That SUCKS!!!! I'm sorry about that man. I hope its possible to fix. My thoughts, also. The last time I had to deal with this personally was with a buddie's vehicle MANY years ago. Basically, we were told it was easier and cheaper to replace the crank. I think they wanted something like $150 25 years ago to drill and tap and a crank was $75. Since you had to pull the crank anyway, at that point you just spent $75 and put the new crank in and moved on. This is one of those that sucks the fun out of your whole month. Edward I unfortunately don't have the tools to pull the engine myself and I don't have the money to have it done at a shop so as it stands I'm sol. I don't have a job atm because my plans were to move to Florida and get a job there in prep for school. However I'm going to see if my dad can bring his trailer down and hall it off to his house up in Arkansas so he can borrow an engine hoist but no guarantees. That's like a 6 hour trip for my dad. That is a total bummer Nine. Yeah it really sucks, quite the time I've had with my first vehicle huh.  |
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Post by pinstryper on Jan 11, 2016 20:48:10 GMT -5
Drill a crank? Ain't gonna happen, unless you own a machine shop.
I would add a .125 washer, and use a new bolt.
This is from experiance.
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Post by pinstryper on Jan 11, 2016 20:49:11 GMT -5
That bolt is striped. Yes, a helicoil would probably work fine. Except ... you'll need to drill and tap the snout for the helicoil. I don't know of any practical way to do this with the crank in the vehicle. The snout needs to be drilled and taped exactly inline with the center line of the crank. Exactly as it is normally. You can't do this free-hand. If you drill (or tap) it out of line, when the bolt is tightened down it will put pressure on the head and eventually the bolt will fail. When that happens, the HB comes off and that's very high on the list of stuff you never want to have happen. Edward What I don't understand is how the bolt can free turn unless the threads on the bolt are too short and the bolt is too long, I mean if it can thread 90% of the way in just fine then starts free turning that seems a bit odd to me. That says stripped to me |
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Post by Naeos_Valkarian on Jan 11, 2016 20:51:52 GMT -5
Drill a crank? Ain't gonna happen, unless you own a machine shop. I would add a .125 washer, and use a new bolt. This is from experiance. would this be safe for long term or is this just a temporary measure? What I need to know is if this method would make it 850 Miles because that's the length of the trip I need to make. |
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Post by jkdv8 on Jan 11, 2016 20:56:14 GMT -5
Does the old bolt tighten down. Are they the same thread, pitch, etc. metric not standard....
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Post by pinstryper on Jan 11, 2016 20:57:07 GMT -5
Put some locktite on it, if it torques up, drive it like you stole it.
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Can you snap a pic of the bolt you took out and post it? I hate to even suggest this, but it sounds like the threads in the crank snout are stripped. 
